Countchocula

Have always liked the look of the factory wheel but just had one damaged and am exploiring budget options for a daily driver. Would love to upgrade to 19 and go wider than the factory 225/45-18 but am needing a budget option preferably used. Needing new all season tires as well so figured it's a good time to explore a whole new set. Seems there are a lot of 2013+ and 5x114.3 offset wheels or stock WRX or STI wheels available which I guess I would consider with an adapter. I can't figure out what offset I should look for if I need to add the thickness of the spacer. There's a set locally from a 13 STi with 5x114.3 18" x 8.5" but they have 53-57 offset and use a 245/40r-18 would those work with a spacer? Seems they would stick out very far. I've spent the last few days looking through the standard wheel sticky and pictures of your wheels but i have the slowest internet for this week at my sisters house. Thanks!!

The motor spun a rod bearing. Higher miles (195,000) but was working fine up until then and had recent head gasket and Tbelt service. Probably want to spend another 1-2 years with the car. Has a cat back exhaust otherwise all stock. Don't plan on doing any mods unless there's a reliable stage 1 or something with a light tune that doesn't affect reliability drastically, otherwise plan on staying stock. Should he: 1) Find a used motor? 2) Have the current one rebuilt? 3) Buy a crate motor? Not really gearheads over hear so don't know much about the engine codes other than its possibly an EJ255 for that year? Can a short block be replaced or would it need a long block with a spun rod bearing? Any links to any place to find anything for a decent price please let me know or pm me. Thanks!

Well I got it to close. If anyone reads this down the road, there are just 2 x 10mm bolts on the striker (Part #57531AJ000). Make sure to TIGHTEN THEM DOWN ALL THE WAY when you're adjusting it for fit. I wasn't doing that and the force of the trunk will move them away again. So I got it to work. Sometimes it requires a little bit of oomph to catch the lid. I'd prefer it to just work normally but whatever it closes and opens now so I can't look at it any longer. Who knows. Maybe my old latch would've still worked if I finessed the striker on the bottom but it was already out and pretty grimy inside so I'm only out the $35 so I'm ok. Topic Closed thanks to all who replied!

So I just ended up buying a new latch and installed it and it does the same thing so that wasn't the problem. It closes but doesn't catch. I turned my attention to the strike or whatever is not on the trunk lid but it catches onto on the bottom. From what I can see it moves vertically a tiny bit. I tried fully up and fully down and it still is not catching. Is there a proper alignment/ adjustment DIY anywhere? I can't find one. Now my trunk wont even stay closed Does the worn paint on the striker give any indication? Thanks

One thing I just noticed as I was taking it apart is that only intermittently does the trunk button on the fob or on the dash actually beep and release the latch.

Solved. Closed. Read through the posts and I think I may need to replace the whole latch? Hoping to not have to. Nothing in the way, Tried lubricating the crap out of the latch. It either won't stay closed or once slamming the hell out of it makes it catch it doesn't really want to release without having someone hit the button while lifting (hard) at the same time? Anything to adjust or check or bite the bullet? Thx The Count

Are they pre wired? I have a plain, non-powered, non dimming mirror currently. Not sure why a Limited wouldn't have this but I guess it was a dealer accessory? Tips on a cheap mirror would be welcomed also. Thanks!

It was the motor. Apparently they just sell it 1 piece with the motor and regulator. Got one on Amazon in 2 days for 45.00. Worked perfectly.

Edit: Fixed already. Just cut the cables on the old regulator and the window dropped down. Hi everyone. Got the door apart and inside someone elses garage. I got the door apart and tested new regulator and motor by plugging in and it works. Problem is OLD regulator /motor is completely dead and can't lower it to unbolt the 2 bolts attached to the window bottom. I tried even cutting the old cable (piece was dead anyway) to try to manually move cable but that didn't work. HOW CAN I LOWER THE WINDOW TO ACCESS THE BOLTS?!?!?!? Thank

Thx for the replies. So not sure why I wouldn't have checked fuses but I thought you may have been on to something when there was NO FUSE in the INSTRUMENT PANEL #29 location Lower Left corner which is "POWER WINDOW RELAY" I put in a 30A and No change at all. There was another fuse two to the right 29 - a 20A for the Power window passenger side" and was fine. I swapped the P/W relay with the horn relay and no change. All windows work except the Front Passenger.

Edit: It was the motor. Or anything else to check? Doesn't move at all No motor noise from wither driver's switch or passenger door switch? Order a new Motor/regulator? Or some other diagnostic to check? Thanks!!

Just wondering if there's a walk-through or video or tech page available anywhere. I've tried searching for a while now. 2015 Legacy 2.5i VVT Solenoid replacement Also has anyone had any luck cleaning vs replacing these? Thanks! The Count

Thanks Guys Appreciate the replies. I'll likely have to pay for a diag but was hoping to know what it was beforehand and see if it's anything I could do. I'm not mechanically inclined (obviously ) but can follow instructions to replace parts myself. If I'm looking at the VVT Solenoid. Since it's on Bank 2, would I just replace the one side if it did fail, or do both? I'm not planning on keeping the car much longer just need to get it running right. Will try looking at the head gasket stuff. I'm pretty confident I didn't run it too long at hot but maybe I did.

Thanks for all who replied. Am back in town and hoping to get to the bottom of this. Oil was not low. Had a full oil change just in case with synthetic. Turn off CEL and they come back within 5 minutes. Stability, CEL, Brake from time to time and all the Eyesight buttons all lit up. Have only driven for a few minutes.. Heat comes and goes Temp still climbs OCCASSIONALLY and High Coolant Temp came on once or twice (other times not) P0021 INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING Over advanced Bank 2 Was the error. What to check next? THANKS!!!!!!!!!

EDIT: P0021 INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING Over advanced Bank 2 is the engine code Not low on oil Not leakeing oil.. So I recently got a 15 Legacy 2.5i Limited. Has about 195k miles currently. Just drove it about 3,000 miles cross country and then some and had no issues at all. No overheating No oil lights. Also the car felt very powerful. I just had the recall done which was the front exhaust pipe. Replaced Wuj 95 Fed Spec Kit - Subaru (SOA635157) Replaced SOA635314 It was at a Subaru dealership. Immediately the car felt somewhat less powerful or responsive....or possibly quieter from the exhaust note which made it seem slower? I'm not sure. But I was gone for a month and then came back and drove the car 30 miles and the following all happened: 1) Heater didn't appear to be blowing hot air 2) Engine temp gauge was ALMOST to the hot marking 3) Oil temp from Navigation Display was as high as around 220-225 F 4) Oil light came on solid a few times but disappeared Does this combo ring any bells? I haven't had a chance to even open the hood yet and wondering where to start diagnosing. Thanks!! The Count