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TheCopyCat

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About TheCopyCat

  • Birthday 10/01/1985

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  • Location
    It's Complicated
  • Car
    2010 Legacy 2.5GT
  • Occupation
    Field Service Engineer

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  1. The thing is the throttle behaves basically the same each time. I there is a setting in the ECU code where after you start driving warm up mode ends. Once it's warmed up and you let off the gas the engine goes to approx idle, 700 rpm. When my car is cold it goes to 700 rpm and dies instantly. I was considering testing the throttle body theory with a heat gun or hair dryer to warm it up before the rest of the engine.
  2. Very tempting, but think I've decided to live with it for the time being. I checked carfax records on service and I've only driven about 11k in the last 2.5 years. Work from home life is pretty nice. It just doesn't make sense that the throttle body changes temperature enough when the engine heats up that it would fundamentally change the operation. I'm considering investing in a code reader to reset CELs if I get one due to this issue. The dealer quote for valve adjustment on this car was $1,920.00. Local shop I trust said they wouldn't bother taking it on, and if it doesn't fix the problem then you'd be SOL at a smaller shop, while at a dealer they'd have to liable if it didn't fix the issue.
  3. I found the procedure in the FSM. Extensive to say the least.http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2010/USDM%20Legacy%20FSM%202010%20(BM-BR)/3.%20Engine%20Section%20(H4DOTC)/4.%20Mechanical%20(H4DOTC)/8.%20Valve%20Clearance.pdf
  4. Well, throttle body is like a 660 dollar part, so replacing that on a whim isn't viable. It looks like I am stuck with the option of having them adjust the valve lashing. In some googling it is something that is done on these 2.5 DOHC engines and there are some videos on how to do it, problem is they have to pull the engine to do the work so it's a $1900 job. I am trying to talk myself into the job with more research. I really don't want to replace the car now, still seems fine other than this issue, I WFM and drive it minimally. A frustrating predicament.
  5. Yes, they explained they had done extensive testing, they've had the car about 2 weeks now actually. Said my current cost is 0 dollars actually. They had two techs in the car duplicated the stall with no error issues on an live logging laptop. I am considering asking for a quote for a new throttle body and replacement PCV valve. Vacuum has been checked already as well though with no issue, fuel pressure no issue, throttle body cleaned. Plugs checked, (about 40k miles on them) They are getting valve check recommendation from some engineering service for Subaru maintenance.
  6. They claim they are finding nothing at all in compression tests showing that there is an issue with the valves but there is some potential valve issue that could only be showing up when it is cold. It just seems a bit unlikely to me, definitely not going to spend the 1900 just at the chance this is the issue.
  7. Well, this saga continues, time flies when you're not driving your car much. Current update is the issue came back, they replaced a coil that was misfiring and then a damaged spark plug. They've had it for a couple weeks and have been unable to find anything wrong. It continues to stall when cold and does not throw a code. They are telling me the next step in the process is to pull the valves (engine) and it would be a $1900 cost, yikes. The car is only worth around 4,000 so that's probably a no. I am still posting here just to see if anyone else has had any issues similar to this, and if they found a resolution.
  8. I meant to update this previously. The stalling issue was fixed by the dealer cleaning the throttle body for 100 bucks.
  9. It's really cool seeing this guide I made has had so many views and helped so many people, crazy how it's lived on over the last 7 years. I haven't been active on these forums, but I still own my Legacy GT with 151,000+ miles now, and have not had a lumbar problem reoccur.
  10. Car starts fine, I don't notice any particular problem with idle. If I am driving before full warm up when the heater kicks on, it has started to stall when i put the clutch in and the idle drops down. Once the heater is kicked in and the car is fully warmed up, it has never happened. We parked and ate lunch, went grocery shopping, and it was fine afterwards as well. I'm going to have to start doing a full 5-10 warm-up to be safe, but I'd like to fix it because that's mostly a waste of gas. I did some searching and it seems like it could be IAC, vacuum leak, or MAF, but all of my search results were on 4th gen vehicles. Has anyone experienced this issue yet on 5th gen? My car is up to 151k on the odometer. Thanks
  11. Well after a visit to Fastenal I found something which ended up working perfectly. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=45211&ucst=t They also have higher grade material on their website which is rated a bit stronger, but more expensive and I don't believe it is necessary. These links have a 175 lb rating. I decided to do a little mini how-to on what I did. Total cost $2.50 ~1-2 hrs. Step one - detach the lowest elastic strap on the seat. This strap holds the fabric on the back of the seat snug. This was fairly difficult as it had to be done totally blind. Taking pictures with my phone helped me see what was going on and I was able to unhook it afterwards. http://i.imgur.com/vEI9c.jpg Another view of the elastic strap. http://i.imgur.com/STTMP.jpg Second step. Remove the two screws located under the flap of fabric and foam at the bottom of the seat back. http://i.imgur.com/7btQH.jpg The seat has two snap on clips on the each side of the bottom. You have to grab the seat back on the side and pull out with a little bit of force to get it to pop out of these clips. After you do that it will easily slide straight down and off. Once the seat back is off repairing the attachment points of the lumbar support is pretty straight forward. The next three photos show how I attached the quick link on both sides. On the left (Drivers) side of the seat the quick link needs to be attached with nut in the back. This essentially shortens the link length. I originally attached it like the right side and the lumbar support did not act evenly. It pulled in way further on the right side then the left side. I'm a little worried about the left side slipping around so that is a full link length and the same thing will occur, but so far it has worked. Right Hand Side http://i.imgur.com/Q9bL7.jpg Left Hand side Top view http://i.imgur.com/cRlJa.jpg Left Hand Side Bottom View http://i.imgur.com/6Z0gX.jpg It was a little tight getting the quick links to thread together with my fingers, but manageable. On the right side there is was a plastic gromet which I removed from the hole in order for the quick links to fit. The threads of the quick link just barely fit through the original attachment points. I will update this thread if I end up doing anything else as a repair. Hopefully this will help some people out when these keep breaking after their warranties are expired. http://imgur.com/a/nfGlr#6
  12. The lumbar support in my 2010 LGT broke a while back. I haven't been able to make it to a dealer for a warranty repair so I decided to look at it myself. After reading the previous threads on the topic, I believe they are spot on in that the S-hooks they provided are undersized. I am going to replace them with something beefier. I was wondering if anyone knew where the S-Hook on the right side of the seat attaches as I did not see an obvious location. http://i.imgur.com/6fYCw.jpg http://i.imgur.com/o7uzf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/wGFmO.jpg The last image is a broken piece of the hook I found in the bottom of the seat. Both sides of my lumbar support were detached when I took off the rear seat cover.
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