KZJonny

Oh, I don’t need to justify that at all. I could have, and probably should have just bought a lightly used new car outright for the amount I am in to my garage + lift + electrical to power the whole thing. By the logic of don’t spend money on nice things, we’d all drive a Yaris. I know plenty of the list is optional, but I’m poking fun at myself, and the age of the car and everything wrong with it. And it is still the nicest and most reliable vehicle I own!! (If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have bought the AOS. I drank the kool-aid.... But I'll just lose money if I sell it, and I've never read anywhere that they do any harm. Correct me if I am wrong about the latter.)

Adventurous souls!! I get chills thinking about everything that might go wrong the occasional time going down to the local low-speed track. Happy to go be an observer/helper if things break. But same as above, 500kms from home is a bad place to lunch something important/expensive!

https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-ej20x-ej20y-engine Some good info here as well. I didn’t realize this engine was a 9.5:1 CR for example.

So... for a combination of laughs, and serious to do list, I thought it might be entertaining to list the things I need to do to/for my 2005 GT in order to make it a better than even chance of making it to Carlisle and back again without catastrophic breakdown. I'm going to make a list, leave it in the post and them hopefully edit/strikethrough the stuff as I accomplish it. I am not the best or fastest mechanic in the world, and getting started in February in Canada means I won't *really* be starting for a while either. At present I've got some major hurdles to get through before I can even really start working. One of the big ones will be deciding to ignore the time and money demands it will take to install the 2 post Bendpak that is arriving next week in favour of the time and money it will take to fix the car on time for June. I have money for one or the other right now, definitely not both. I'll start. List will probably get longer over time. Might get divided into needs and wants at some point. - RR wheel speed sensor/CEL for ABS - done - new/used ss installed, everything has been contact cleanered, let's see if the code clears - 05/23 - code did not clear !! new unused part arrived on the weekend. hopefully that will take care of it, and it's not a break in the wiring further upstream... we will see. worst case I don't have ABS for the trip, which isn't the end of the world, I do not expect to be driving fast in the rain, nor locking up the brakes... Aaaaaahhhh!! New part arrived and did not solve the problem. I suppose not it is pinning out the connector and finding out what signal is not getting where... FML. - rear sway bar bracket supports (install) - done - install RSB end links, may need shims - done. On to the fronts - done - which were MOOGs that have now been donated to the OBW - remove and replace rotted lower rad bar + 2 x rad supports -done - needs a few more nuts and bolts to secure it all properly, but the worst is over, rusted failing parts are gone and new shiney OE bits are holding the rad securely in place. - rebuild outer CV joint by turbo * - sort of.... Replaced with Cardone unit for now, no time to rebuild, but I have 3 spares lying around now, so I should be able to make at least one good OEM axle from all that... - replace windscreen - nope - install AOS - nope - ideally, install SMFW and Spec Clutch (probably won't happen) - it did not,no - bleed brakes!! - this one should get done... - not even, old fluid ftw - install oil press gauge (?where?) - ahah.....HAHAHAH!! - do at least basic rust removal and primer on terrible rear quarters - problem solved and I didn't even need to get my welder out... - re-install lower sills .....maybe? I I suppose I really should, the car looks ridiculous wirthout them, but they're also been off for 2++ years? - diagnose and fix A/C system (that is a big maybe) - diagnosed: system works perfectly when full of refigerant, but it leaks/leaked? Let's see how the A/C system sealant refrigerant combo works. I bet it doesn't do much. - figure our what wiring is needed to wire '07 centre console aux-in port to the stereo to get an actual aux-in - Negatory. - Need to add a bracket to my DP to pick up the hanger at the tail end of the transmission. - done -restore headlight assemblies, not smart doing any night driving as they are now - done. poorly. -Still have some scratches, and I do not thing I got all the clearcoat off, but they are at least clean and clear and will not reduce the light output from the headlights. So, good enough... - shall I go on, or am I already dreaming? I may have been high when I originally proposed doing all of those things. I think this list will shortly be truncated to just the Speed sensor, rad support and installing the sills, maybe bleed the brakes because of the scenic group cruise... 2 months to go and I already don't know how I will ever find time for the rest... April. 10th

Looking like camping site outside of Carlisle PA, dude. You in? I'll also start a parallel thread later today @Enlight just for laughs as mentioned earlier. See what the long repair and maintenance lists are for a bunch of old-ass Subies to get clodged together well enough to survive a road trip and maybe track day... Curious if the oldest thing to come along will be 4th Gen. I know we're the most vocal on the forum, but I still kind of miss my '02 Outback, for example. It was somehow a little more fun to drive than my 05 OB....

Wrong thread maybe? As far as belt sqeak goes tho, it's worth knowing that the belt dressingin a spray can isn't the greatest stuff to solve the issue, as it tend to wear away and is designed to be slightly tacky and help with adhesion. An old hand mechanic once told me to use fine chalk or talcum powder, which feel "soft" but is actually ever so slightly abrasive, and will act as a micro-sandpaper on the belt surface. Scuffing it up just enough that it will gain back some grip on to the pulleys.

I'm fine with either Carlisle of Mike's place, and will go with the crowd. One extra hour doesn't mean too much to me if I'm already going 6 or so. I suppose one of the benefits of not having turned my GT car into a track 'weapon' is that it is still really a good platform for, ya know.... a Grand Tour? I'll probably choose whatever camping option is appealing in the area. I've never had to sleep IN my wagon, tho I "car camp" once a year or so. It's possible but at ~6'2", I'd rather just bring a small tent and a ground pad. Takes like 5 minutes to set that up. I lived out of a tent for 5 summers or so working in forestry, so I probably get as good sleep on the ground + mat as I ever do in a real bed. Activities and libations are welcome. I could probably bring along a small (20/30L) keg of beer + CO2 and a basic tap system if anyone close to the site has some kind of cooler to put it in and anyone wants to help keep ice in it for the weekend? I don't know that I would have space for all that plus a cooler, but I might.

I have no idea, but I wonder what the numbers would look like for compression, flow etc.... for the ej20 short block with B25 heads? For sure you'd need a full tune afterwards, but that would be eliminate most of the complications regarding the JDM nature of the engine (which I think is mainly the dual AVCS compatibility/electronics etc....) I bet someone on NastyOc would pay some money for JDM heads and turbo for their rex.. yo. It does go back into 'building an engine' territory, but might not be so bad? -pull and clean heads and AVCS cam actuators -?deck? head + new gaskets? Since the EJ20 would come with uncontaminated oil cooler etc... this seems like a lot less work that the usual YNANSB work. Sure wish we could get JDM import engines that cheap where I am at... Also of note, just watched a "The Skid Factory" episode last evening where they review a 650hp EJ25, that uses EJ20Y heads.... so, that was interesting, and proves the combination works in reverse at least...

!!! My (5MT) gearbox is made of glass just like everyone elses. I think being 500kms from home would not be the place for me to have my first ever go at a drag strip. Unless someone has a drivetrain lying around they'd be willing to donate to get me home. I've never in my life done so much as a clutch dump on any of my cars.... I've done some *very* stupid things on motorcycles, and made plenty of smoke that way, but for some reason when it comes to cages, I'm really conservative. Probably becuase they are so much more expensive to fix.....

I just pulled an ‘05 side feed tgv off of my spare engine, if pictures of that will help. Can take measurements as needed. (spare/parts engine may now be scrap, after sitting under a tarp on a stand in my back yard for 2 years… different story altogether. Might be salvageable.)

If your not doing that kind of work yourself, I’d suggest getting some basic tools, asking more questions, watching youtube videos etc…. Nothing you mentioned needs more than a good socket set and maybe some rust breaking penetrant. (Yeah, a floor jack and axle stands would be good, but there are also safe ways to do it without.) Spend some money on quality parts and you’ll learn something. Apologies if you’re already doing all your own work. If so, the cost of all those parts would be equal to a couple months of new/used car payments. And you sure won’t get anything that is a much fun to drive for something like that kind of money. That looks like a well looked after car. Keep it that way and enjoy.

Second those thought on both car and shed. That also gives me some ideas on how To use the ‘wasted’ space on the side of my garage build! Please keep us updated on the progress of both.

It felt so good. Like good in a way that backing a car up really shouldn't feel. I opened a beer and just stood staring at the wagon for an easy 20 minutes. Not that I don't sometimes just do that anyway, they are really good looking cars, but still. I appreciate that you're following and some others have been supportive as well. I knew this would be a lot of work, but didn't expect it to take quite so long. It does feel damn good doing something like this almost single handed tho.

Yup. Leakdown test is performed one cylinder at a time, or at least it is with the inexpensive OTC gauge set that I have. It would still give you a better idea where it is leaking from (and how badly/quickly) without speculating based on how things feel. And I definitely see what you mean about the cost of paying up front... Price on a block in the yards around me is ~$350 CAD for just the long block and $475 CAD for a loaded long block, and they can be found with not so many kms. on them, but you may have to do some looking. That is a lot less money than $1200 USD. So yeah, not comparing apples to apples. If it was my NA, I would probably go the route of slapping on new parts, +turbo head gaskets etc.. but having a rebuilt engine would increase my confidence. I'm not hard on mine tho since it's the daily commuter and trailer hauler, it doesn't have to work all that hard.

Add it to the poll! Anyone interested in staring a parallel thread (or using this one, once we've got a place and time figured out) to have some "S#it I need to fix on my old-ass Legacy to safely make this trip?" lists? I know I'll have one, and actually having a date when it really needs to get done by will be good motivation to get my ass in gear on this.

That doesn't look too bad at least?! Lesson learned the hard way, and Evaporust will etch metal every time you don't immerse a thing in it. I am also unsure why, but I do suspect it has to do with it being water based, and causing flash rust as it removes rust where the phase shift goes from liquid to air. In future, if you're a little short on Evaporust to completely cover whatever, then soaking a cloth in it and draping it over the peice, with the ends still in the bucket is typically enough to keep wicking moisture up, and prevents etching. If you find this is causing you to lose the stuff too fast with all the evaporation, top back up with distilled water and away you go. The chelating agents in E/R don't evaporate, and can be reused for damn long time if you don't just spill it. (It really should come with more instructions on the bucket, but...)

More details will help if you can share them. I am assuming these are non-GT (non-turbo)? So probably EJ253s? @silvertonis correct, and there shouldn't be any real drama swapping the engines, but knowing what your plans are will help get you better advice.. - you plan on moving the good engine from the '05 into the manual body '07 correct? - you would be leaving the 07 as a manual, not moving over the whole auto drive train? (easiest way to go, so I assume this is the plan) The '05 is not going to have a secondary air pump for emissions, while the '07 does, and I am pretty sure the '07 ECU will want you to have one. It's difficult to delete those codes now as emissions regulations are preventing most tuners from touching those kinds of things, but maybe you can find a guy, or just live with the permanent CEL code on your dash... AVLS is another 'problem', but you can probably also ignore that. You'll lose out on a little power and maybe some fuel economy, but it's something you can address later. I think that technically you could swap the heads from the broken '07 engine to the '05 and get both the air pump and AVLS functional, but that's a lot more work than just a long block swap, and also assumes the heads from the '07 are useable, which they may not be. If your going to swap the engines, no better time to slap on some fresh valve cover gaskets and throw in some spark plugs... Take a look around for oil leaks, etc... Way easier with the engines out of the car.

Could be possible to prove out rings being okay, with a leakdown test? If you're getting 110psi, that's not great, clearly, but it should be enough pressure to have a listen and see if the air is escaping mainly via the exhaust or into the crankcase? Assuming all other seals are good, you should be able to hear if there is hissing noise coming from the oil fill/dipstick or exhaust. Mechanics stethescope could be handy here. Still might need that new block, but as @xt2005bonbon says above, you may not be at the point where you have to condemn that one. (On the other hand, how much is a rebuilt 253?? I know at least around me, complete scrapyard engines are common and cheap, so you'd be paying for rings/seals/gaskets + labour? Might not be so bad to get a practically new engine...)

Double post, sort of. Already mentioned in ‘what did you do 4th gen..’ But I wanted to keep this thread fairly complete and it’s also helping me have an easily referenced timeline of my building this thing. Roofing metal and wood for purlins should arrive before too long, so I’ve hoping for a warm weekend, or the like. Need to trim the plywood on the edges, install fascia and ladder rungs under the gable overhangs before I can start putting up the rood sheathing. Little more work to go, but that’ll be a big hurdle. That +TyVek on the outside, and it will at least be pretty weatherproof.

Oh man. I really hadn’t spent any time looking around on buyee until now…. Like I needed another way to empty my wallet… Some nice looking lightly used gear there…

I don't want anyone to be left out, and there is plenty of time for other to chime in, but it does seem like, say, Finger Lakes are really central, and there is a motor sports park there as well. Maybe if a good time is had by all etc...., there may be even more interest in something a little more pan-east coast in future, which would attract more attention and justify a central location along the coast? Potentially gauge interest a little further out as well, or whatever makes it sensible.

All good man, and thanks for the info. It's always something I try to ask in advance. Beats having to make new plans on where to go/stay once you've already arrived somewhere! More of a cat guy, if my icon didn't suggest that already.

Claro... I'd 100% be in for this kind of solution, and will help if I can, but as noted, my knowledge of electronics is pretty limited. I can understand when someone comes up with a solution how it works, but could never put together something from scratch. Maybe there is enough interest from enough people to throw some $$ at this? Dunno. It doesn't seem like a big ask to figure out how to send the correct signal to the ECU that will emulate those it wants from functioning TGV's either, does it? Part of my continued curiosity is that my GT is a 'warm' weather only car, so it really probably doesn't need the TGVs for much, and they are a potential failure point. I'm looking at this more from the perspective of reducing those given the age of the car, and that I am at least planning on driving it for another couple decades. I guess if I were really commited reducing failure points I would be riding my bike everywhere, or driving a stock NA Honda, but I think you all get the gist.

Finger Lakes sounds pretty cool to me, but since it's also closer than Carlisle, there is a bit of a bias there as well. Certainly some good roads, and great places to do some camping as well as eating... Still game for anything, and mspranks offer is incredibly generous as well! The only thing that concerns me personally about camping at peoples homes is, uhm... dogs. Strange dogs scare the beeejusus out of me, and I can usually circumvent this at parks by getting a spot in the quiet/dog-free areas so I can actually enjoy my time there. It's not a deal-breaker, but if say, someone had a couple of "friendly" large breed dogs, I would need to know in advance, and either make the decision not to go, or at very least find a place to stay a couple kms away, or what have you. More on topic is how adulting sucks. It wasn't that long ago that I would've needed like 24 hours notice to pack a duffel bag, grab my passport and head off on a weekend roadtrip somewhere cool to meet people and go camping or what have you. Now looking months ahead and trying to juggle work, time away and all kinds of other responsibilities it's ridiculous. And I'm not married and don't have kids. I can't imagine how you guys with families manage it!

Got it. Times have changed, and I have this feeling like there are a lot of things that were just never similar in Canada, or at least anywhere I've lived. I hear lots of stories of people just "going to the scrapyard and finding solid gold", which I believe applies more frequently in the US than anywhere I've ever lived in Canada. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that we have many fewer pick a part type yards (although that trend is changing a little) and that cars like GT/XT s almost never end up in them. But, sometimes you get lucky. In my case, is seems like the problem isn't getting hardware to fit the car, since they seem to be old enough now that there is a huuuge stockpile of parts from wrecked Subies all over. It's more that I went with COBB for my tuning platform. I do not think there is any way I can have the DTC codes deleted if I don't have a functional TGV in the car. Not important to do the delete for a street driven car, as noted by @Underdog but I'm thinking long term and what would I do if the motors or sensors fail. Far easier to delete the things than it is to fix/replace them.... So, if I need to uprgrade injectors, it does seem like fuel rails are the easiest option, but I do remain stuck with the extra wiring and failure potential of the OE TGV system. I mean, I guess I *could* just run some wiring to the spare tire well and have a couple of stepper motors doing their thing back there to keep the computer happy! It would be kinda nice to have that extra input to the ECU tho...