KZJonny

!!! Those look damn close, and for a difference of ~$100, I’m willing to enlarge a bolt hole or make a spacer bracket… That seems like a reasonable price for some stamped metal parts. EDIT: $15.88 CAD/ea delivered to my local dealership, so I'll be the Guinea pig on this one. I have a set of GT lowers supports from a friend that were going to be templates for me to make new ones from SS. Since that's a project that never happened...... I will take some photos to compare the two part numbers. Fingers Crossed.

No worries man. I didn't mean to totally jack your for sale thread either. I was just trying to figure out what those were meant to fit. If I still lived in AB, I would probably be more concerned with high beams than I am living in Southern Ontario. Almost all the highways I take these days have overhead lights. I practically never turn my high beams on anymore. Not the case when I was living in the Rockies. Maybe PM me about the price on the Osram 200s lows then? Cheers!

That might be a deliberate left handed joke, but white text on a white background is hard to see..... What is your price on the Nightbreakers, and does slow shipping come in under $30 CAD to Ontario? I don't care if they take a month to arrive.... lol!

Huh. Very cool. I'll keep these in mind then, for sure. (I know you're getting low, so I'm sure I'll miss out on this batch). I've generally found the stock lighting setup to be fine on high beams, but really lacking on low beam, so that's part of why I was asking. Do you know offhand if an IR version of the H7 exists out there?

This is bit of a dummy question I suppose, but these are for foglamps? based on the the photos? I don't know what an H1R1 is exactly, but it doesn't seem like it works in the stock 9005 (according to google) socket for high beams, and those look nothing like the H7 lows....

All good! Just figured If they were going to end up in the bin, or scrap metal pile, I’d throw someone a few dolllars +shipping for a set that are ugly but useable. (I’ll try to grab a photo of mine, good for a chuckle, I promise.)

Oh for sure. I just took a look at the $120 USD cost + shipping and thought it was a little ridiculous for some folded metal and a grommet. Also, my garage project means I am broke. Like, not buying groceries kind of broke while I eat eveything I put away in my freezer this summer. I told myself I'd make some out of stainless as soon as I had the chance..... and there is still a drilled out hockey puck holding my radiator off the support bar. (The bar is nearly as bad for rust and also has to come out.) In all seriousness, it isn't bad little mount, but it looks ghetto AF. It just sounded like maybe you were prettying up the bay, and wanted new ones for semi-cosmetic reasons, so maybe the old ones could be salvaged. I'm in no hurry at all and may get lucky and find a set in the pick n save yard on a car that comes in that aren't completely crap before the Spring as well. EDIT: New part doesn't come with a new grommet for that price!!

Righto. Sounds like you're good for amps, and I think at this point you must have a few lying around. I also replaced the rusted-to-dust OE engine grounds etc.. with CT ones when I got my car, and amazingly it idled pretty well, instead of ah... not idling properly at all? Still, the woven straps don't last long even in a summer only car, so I think I'm also in for a new set. Wouldn't be too surprised to find out it takes care of at least some of your reception/interference problems.

Any chance you’d part ways with the rusty rad supports if they’re not total junk? One of mine collapsed from rust this summer, and I’ve got a hockey puck holding up the rad on one side…. Other one isn’t far behind. Lol! Rust belt life means all the ones I’ve seen in scrap yards haven’t been better.

I'm parting out an 05 GT. As far as I am aware it had decent radio reception. How much is the amp from Subaru? I could send you the one from this car if you want to try another old one before spending new part money.... I certainly think a new wiring harness is a good idea, and will probably do that myself some day, since I think they're like $150 USD? vs. a couple of evenings fixing 18 year old wires..... Be curious to hear what you think of any grounding kit you might find. I was looking at that a little, but they all seemes really spendy for what you get, so I'm leaning towards making my own with some multi-strand welding wire and a hydraulic crimp for the ends.

Oh man, yeah. I took a scroll back and it's hard to believe it was only the middle of November that I didn't even have all the walls up. I have 100% had some help along the way, but this has mainly been a solo project since the pad was poured, and I've already learned a lot, picked up a few fun tools, and figured out how to stay warm and get some building done in the dark in Canadian winter. Hah! At this point, I think I am aiming to either get metal roofing on (or not), close in the rest of the building with sheathing, and do my best to get Typar building wrap up on the walls, then take a little break on it until late Feb/ early March when the worst of the winter cold and snow are past. Of course, if all other things are equal,and I have the available space inside, I'll have the GT parked inside until the summer as well. Now to reach out Bendpak and see about scheduling a delivery for the lift....

Yeah. From the diagrams, I can see the lines to the filter look like their up top on the return side of things, so not easily visible from below. Funny, coz I've actually got a friends blown up 5EAT in my driveway now, and I suppose I could have checked that..... Juust saying, for the low cost of those hoses and the mess your gonna make changing them anyway, might be worth considering just doing both of them at the same time. If one is worn and leaking, the other can't be far behind. Good time for a fluid dump and refill using the trans oil pump as well....

AFAIK there are only 2 available hoses that come up from the trans and go to the ATF cooler in the rad. Someone with an auto car can step in and correct me. https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-cooler-line-45520ag03a https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-cooler-line-45520ag01a The one you've circled looks to me like the second one, but you'll be able to tell. The difference in length should be a giveaway.

Can you specify the year and model? I am pretty sure all LGT autos had a filter in drivers side fender that had some additional ATF coolant lines running around, but I've never owned one. Is this by chance a non-turbo car?

Part # for Whiteline PS bushing kit? I assume it would be the same for all BP/BL cars, but figure I should ask before having anything shipped.

Wow! Good on them for fessing up and standing behind their warranty. Good to be able to share a positive result when going back to a shop.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_39/cooling_system/engine_cooling/illustration_2/ Looks like part #16?

This is the trans fluid hose going to the filter? Or the one coming off the main lines? Either way, this is one of those rare instances where running in to your local dealer may be the easiest thing to do… the price markup is probably worth the convenience, and it will be molded correctly.

Post your results, I am genuinely curious as I recently picked one up from a local owner who went to a VDC car, so can’t use it any more. I haven’t found braking to be especially deficient, but some improvement in pedal feel might be nice. Briefly considered the STI BMC/booster swap, but hope this is sufficient.

Sure. If nobody swoops in to pick it up. I'll keep an eye on the listing. I'm a little embarrassed to say I had to google map Rhode Island... I had a general idea, but wouldn't have been able to put my finger on it on a map! Free bump.

Dang! That’s 10 hours driving from me, or I’d come get it. Round trip fuel kinda ruins the good price…. GLWS tho!

Pretty sure this is it, if it maybe helps anyone following along. I think Ima pick one up for my OB, since the starter has been a bit lazy for a while now, and I suspect it's just age.... https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/55909014.html Good site, but be wary when searching. A part they have listed for a LEAGACY also fits a Legacy. That said they came right back to me with an answer when I asked. The pricing on the website is slightly cheaper than their Ebays sales as well, which is perhaps worth knowing.

Had some ‘nice’ weather…. As in 0-2 C, but it wasn’t raining for a change. Finished the roof sheathing and got almost all of it covered in a waterproof breathable membrane ($500 CAD/roll!!!). So, while it won’t be perfect, it shouldn’t rain inside the garage when it rains outside now…. Couple little jobs to do, and finish the eaves and fascia on the left hand side, and I can park the GT in there for her winter slumber…. Metal sheeting for the roof exterior is on order and should arrive in a week and a bit. We’ll see what the weather brings after that…. Did I mention that I’m terrified of heights? This is not a job I’d do for money. Just for want of a space and love of old cars.

Pm sent.

Genuinely curious about the price difference at the moment. I don't remember paying a whole lot more for the the AEM. So... if it is regarded, even by the guys you're talking to as being the better option, then why not? As always, spending someone else's money is easy. Perhaps it is something more technical like higher fuel line pressure? But I would assume that a tune takes that into consideration, although I also figure the FPR would equalize that in any case. (Something along the lines of more pump than you need.... and I do have a slightly more than stock turbo etc....)