KZJonny

Crap. Mine is getting a little gooey as well.... I've got a spare one out of a parts car, but the condition of the airbag or whether or not it was fixed under warranty is unknown. I'd debated trying to clean then plastic paint my current one, but wonder if whatever adhesive is oozeing out from the plastic would just destroy that. Took a look at this the other day for a buddy who is currently going to be stuck with a tan airbag in a black wheel, and the skin is held on with 4 x rivets. I would think it might be a little tricky to drill them out and put new ones in if you find a plastic in better shape, but it should certainly be do-able..... Perhaps not the worlds best idea, but the inflator shouldn't go off if it is not connected to a voltage source, and your not ridiculously rough with it.

Better late than never. You probably already dealt with this? Unfortunately, $1500 does sound about right for a factory cat. I just sold my old one from the GT (2 cats in the downpipe) for $700..... Might do better going to a 'custom' exhaust shop and have them either cut away the rotten stuff off the cat you have and try harder to put a new flange on it, or weld in a high-flow performance cat. They still do a good job of cleaning up NOx, but they're smaller and usually meanigfully less expensive than OE replacement cats. Your neighbourhood exhaust shop probably doesn't want to do anything more involved than replacing factory pipes with pre-bent replacments or basic cut and weld type work.

Oh man. I didn't know I needed a Euro spec wagon rear bumper until now....

Just to muddy the water, I had a chat with the guys at Spec as well, and they suggested the Stage 1 for me. I've got a JMP VF40 Custom turbo and full exhaust. So, no dyno numbers, but probably at least 260-270 whp. Haven't installed it yet, since the OE clutch is still holding on just fine after a summer of spirited driving, which surprised me. GIve them a ring if you decide to go this route. Their customer service was great, so I'm really just giving them a +1. Which clutch you replace with is a personal choice. If you're not doing power mods, then OEM is probably juuuust fine. That said, going to a single mass flywheel is kinda nice as well, and now would be the time to do so, if you're thinking about it.

Glad you figured it out. Was is the carrier bearing or a u-joint? Doesn’t matter much at this point, but they’re all exposed to the elements, and the driveshaft Itself is considered a replacement part wear item, as the u-joints are hard to replace with new units, and the carrier bearing is not replaceable at all that I know of. When I replaced mine with an aftermarket part, it lasted like 2 weeks and blew up on the highway. Thankfully I was able to pull it out and get off the road… oe junkyard propshaft is 2 years and still going strong.

Pop out the wheel speed sensor and have a look. They get damaged when the tone ring gets bent and cuts a notch out of them. Commonly anyway, I’ve replaced at least 2 of mine and had to slightly bend back the tone ring on the axle so it wouldn’t contact. If the sensor looks fine, you might have a wiring problem further up the system. The connection where the sensor meets the body is kind of exposed to the elements, so maybe take that apart and hit it with some connection cleaner/de-oxit and try again? fwiw, the sensors and their retaining bolt can be pretty rusted in, I’d definitely consider soaking it in your best penetrating agent for a day or two before trying to take it out…. Heat is likely to melt the sensor.

For whatever reason this thread popped back into my head. I think the answer would also be "yes" becuause of the Subaru global platform, but does anyone suppose this swap would also work about the same for a USDM Impreza wagon as the shell for the same kind of STi swap? (Or any other EJ-T you could find from a wrecked car....) I would really like to have a modern WRX hatch, but of course, they're NLA, and I know I'll never be able to drive a sedan. However, finding a blown engine or damaged Impreza hatch and a twisted WRX or STi would make it possible. Probably well outside my budget, and money better spent throwing a bigger turbo and fuel system in the GT, but still.... It would make for a nice daily winter beater. Shells would be plentiful and fairly cheap for a lot more years than 4th gen stuff. Or... If anyone on here has a bugeye Rex that isn't a pile of rust, let me know.

Parts-com seems to be pretty spendy in your area for well used engines. Seems like a new short block is the best choice. But that’s a bit of work to do the swap. Depends on how much work you are willing to take on? Not a terrible swap, but would require a fair few tools to do it properly…

Yeah, that was really early in the morning, and I hadn't had a coffee yet. I don't imagine diff gears would be terribly happy just being lubricated by ATF....

Don't know how far you are from it, or how much you feel like pulling your own stuff. Trans is a bit of a job, but there could be one in Charlotte? https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/parts/charlotte-1228/?year=2005&make=SUBARU&model=OUTBACK Phase 1 4EAT. Looks like they come in around $400 with a 60 day warranty? Just a thought. Don't know if they're willing to take a look in the yard for you and talk about mileage and what is still in the car, but some places will.

I've said it a few other places now, but JMP was awesome to deal with. So very glad I decided to get my 'Custom' VF40 from him. The turbo looked amazing, performs even better than I expected, and the customer service was over and above. If I had the guts/money and didn't want my engine to last to 3-400k kms, I would do a fuel system and strap on one those 20Gs in a minute. I do appreciate the 'slap you back in your chair' feeling of an engine coming on boost hard, or 'getting on the cams' in NA applications, but don't need it in a daily driver..... uh.. threadjack over. Buy stuff from JMP!

I took out the OE rubber o-ring that acts as the gasket there. I found the Mr. Gasket silicon lined up right at the mating surface, and didn't want the two infering with each other and causing sealing problems. The whole thing passed a smoke test before I ever dared turn the key, granted, that's only a couple psi, but I've also got a few thousand kms on it now, and no signs of poor idle, or of boost leaks. Ymmv, but I think that gasket it as good choice either way. I can't imagine the P-0500 would have any relation to idling problems... This might help?: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diagnosing-a-p0500-dash-err-ss-rare-problem-failed-abs-module.447257/ Maybe double check that you didn't nudge any vacuum related hoses (the infamous blue Tee is infamous for a reason....) while you were messing with the Intercooler etc... I'd think it's likely the wheel speed code and the bad idle aren't related, but I imagine there is some way under the sun that it's possible.

Does the front differential share fluid with the transmission on 4EAT’s? I should know this since I have one, but haven’t done the fluids in a long while. I’m pretty sure they do not, so perhaps checking the level/colour of the gear oil. Look for glitter if something went *really* wrong? if there *is* something wrong, I would imagine a junkyard trans would be easier/cheaper than a rebuild. These are actually relatively stout transmissions, and the failure rate on them is pretty low from what I can gather. Plenty lots of them in pick n pull yards these days, for probably like a couple hundred?

Fwiw. I won’t claim it will make all the difference, but I only use copper anti-sieze on suspension components and the backs of brake rotors, etc… non-critical, low temp applications. Do yourself a favour and get a tin of nickel based anti-sieze as well. It is compatible with stainless steel and other exotic metals. (Copper anti-seize can corrode SS and aluminium depending on the formula.) Usually Ni bases anti seize will have a higher temp tolerance as well which *might* help you a little with those turbo studs and nuts. The stuff in the photos is resistant to almost 400*C more than Permatex copper…..

All cool stuff right? Knowing the minuteia of oiling is both incredibly complicated and kinda simple in the same way, but most people don't go down the rabbithole of hydrodynamics and fluid tensions. No good reason to, but it's nerdy, interesting stuff nonetheless. Share away. That 1937 video looks pretty good actually, considering. This is also why journal bearing turbos are just fine for most applications. Because of the fluid friction at the bearing and greater surface area they don't accelerate as fast as a shaft in a ball bearing race, but wear should be practically nill given good oiling, and quality oil....

That’s interesting. I’ve got room for the Tokyo Roki filter with my Killer B, and I’m just able to slide on a Thermal Zero heat blanket on it as well. Minor differences in production?? I’d have assumed that whatever jig they use would have been more accurate than that. Strange.

Website says it only fits 2006 and up, does not match 2005 Legacy. Thoughts? I was't aware there were any meaningful differences between 05/06 in terms of HVAC, or really much of anything else. This isn't top of my list, but hard to beat for the price, given it's less than the total cost of the actuators.....

Aha! Sorry. I read that on my phone, and at that size it the 100USD turned into $1000. The old U/O switcheroo. Nvmd the above!

Don’t mean to be cheeky, but is the Perrin unit considered so much better than say, the Grimmspeed one, that the same price for a used/hacked one is a deal over brand new in box +splitter, new hoses, etc…

Got a part number for the system as a unit, if there is one? Been a few weeks since any salt was put down here, and a few rains, so I decided to take the GT out for a sneaky evening drive….. no heat. Summer car, so it doesn’t really need it, but ya know….

Sorry. To clarify, that Mr. Gasket is silicon and aluminium, that's what I was referring to. It does go between the turbo outlet and the intercooler, yes. Gives you a little bit squishier material (silicon) for everything to clamp down tight on, but it is infinitely reusable since the body is aluminium. Beats hell out of the OEM rubber ring that deforms over time, causing boost leaks. Whatever gasket comes with your BPV should be sufficient to seal that up. The one that came in my Turbosmart box was some kind of impregnated fibre/paper gasket. The surfaces are both flat and smooth, and it's holding 16psi so far, no problems at all. I suspect I'd blow out the IC long before having any failures there.

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-738G-Water-Outlet/dp/B000CMF20O This. Easy to strip threads in aluminium if you’re not careful, so it’s a possibility. If the silicon/ali gasket doesn’t help, then helicoil/timeserts will solve that problem easily enough… A spray bottle with soapy water will find a leak fast enough. Failing that a simple smoke test might find a leak somewhere harder to see.

Read *some* of that over lunch. I guess the takeaway is that it is *fast*? I looks to me like the design and operation principals are the same for the Synchronic as for other piston-type BPV's, except that this one is highly modular and able to be configured in multiple ways. I guess the question for me is a use-case scenario, which always has to be considered vs. cost. For a summer driven car with a JPM Custom VF40, is the milliseconds difference in response time going to be worth double the cost? For me, of course not, but I do appreciate the guy engineering this thing. I think if I had gone with a bigger turbo, or anything exotic and requiring an EWG, this would be the cat's ass and a definite contender. But, strapped on to my bulletproofed stock IC, I think would be a good example of not being able to polish a turd....

I'm surprised that's the case, since they seem to make high quality bits and their stuff gets used on some big name Youtube car building channels. Not argueing the evidence, just expected better from a company that seems to be so well loved. Maybe the low end stuff got shopped offshore as the production volumes increased? Dunno. Either way, the build quality of my Turbosmart, as well as fit and finish were great. The only thing I would consider changing in future would be possibly studding the charge air cooler, so the BPV would just drop on, rather than having to fiddle with bolts, but that's an OCD kind of thing, and I don't think it'll need to come off until I look into getting the Grimmspeed unit to replace my ageing (but bulletproofed) stocker.

So, that pricing was from a while ago, but memory was *about* right. ~$160 USD or thereabout. FWIW - For a variety of reasons I really prefer the full recirc valve, but I do have to add that it does make just a little more noise when recircing back to the intake. In a good way tho, you have to be listening for it. I also think there would be nothing at all wrong with a GFB unit, and I think Grimmspeed makes BPV's now as well? I am kind of find of their stuff for whatever reason. This is just what Cryotune suggested as a good unit, and the price was good. Turbosmart is, to the best of my research, a highly respected brand that sees a little more use in Aus, as that's where they're engineered.