KZJonny

Put mine in a safer place. Garage is still a long way from being done, but it’s dry, has a roof, and solid 6” think reinforced concrete floors to put my Quickjacks on. No power or light yet of course, but still. This feels good!!! Been a lot of hours, money and cold days in the dark putting it up, but having a place for the projects feels damn good. Now, need to arrange for delivery of the 2 post hoist.

I think I'm following along reasonably with the conversation here, and what will and won't work for various reasons. Just for clarity tho, if you're not chasing big power, where every possible restriction in the path is a real problem for air/fuel flow... - what is the downside to just using aftermarket top feed fuel rails that adapt to the side feed TGVs? It is mainly just cost, or is the adaptor rail a less than ideal configuration. I ask this because there is the obvious selection in top feed injectors, and the are less expensive to service... But, I also have a spare set (or potentially 2 spare sets) of 550cc yellow tops which could be de-capped etc.... for more fuel if needed. - Is a TGV delete kit really so much more flow than removeing the shaft and butterflies from the stock bodies and leaving the motors and sensors on the car, which (I thought) kept the DTC codes from occurring. Yeah, I'd love to be able to have another input to the stock ECU for oil pressure or whatever, but it's not that critical to me, and my analogue oil gauge is good enough... My interest was mainly becaue I could get a set of rails/injectors/tgvs for next to nothing, but as discussed they won't work. And while I understand what's being discussed in terms of an elec eng solution to the problem, my understanding of electronics ends at what you need to know to have an Amateur Radio license, so grade school stuff by comparison to a university education on it... We have no emissions testing or follow up on passenger cars in Ontario, so I can do whatever I please as far as that goes, and don't need to answer to anyone about it. That said, I still want to have a clean running car, and have a catted DP etc....

Submitted into the poll. Sorry for the delay. Carlisle is a reasonable 6-7 hours from Canadia, at least if you're close to the border like I am. That should leave enough time for me to do the necassary work to feel comfortable driving that far in a foriegn country, and 'reliably' get there and back. I will, however, not have time to the planned body work before that, so hopefully nobody harshes too much on my rust belt car and it's nasty rear fenders and missing sills. She'll keep up with the pack anyway... Just not so much with anybody packing a big turbo upgrade. Not to get too far ahead of all this, but is it worth discussing if one of the local state parks that seem to be in the vicinity are a good candidate for any of us that prefer a camp out? I'm not one for hotels at the best of times, and would go it alone in a park before staying at a motel, but I think I wasn't the only one who also mentioned enjoying 'camping' as part of the package...

Got one in Niagara (wiper arm).... Not from a Spec, but I don't know how that matters.....

That is in the middle of the busiest time of year for me and my industry, but doesn't mean I can't get away. I would say that for me, it would limit the distance I am able to go to about the minimums tho. I still only get 2 weeks vacation/year, and much as I love this idea, I'm not gonna burn too much of that for a car meet. (I'd have to give up my week long backcountry adventures to do so, and that isn't happening.) I could reasonably get away earylish from work on a Friday, and pull in to wherever, ideally before it's too late to set up a tent etc.... say hello to some people and crack a beer... Leaving would be the reverse on a Sunday, etc.... So, count me in, but I think anything as far away (tho awesome) as the Tail of the Dragon would put it well out of my range for a 2.5 day round trip.

If no other leaks are obvious from visual inspection (hoses, rack, ps pump etc...) then maybe find a parking lot and do some more figure of eight turns? Having a flashlight to look at the ps fluid reservoir for bubbles might give you some indication of if/when you've bled any air out of the system... PS pump could be suspect, but best to rule out the simple stuff first. Have you bled out the old fluid as much as possible as replaced with fresh ATF? Maybe old/deteriorated fluid is the culprit....

Location: St. Catharines - Niagara Peninsula, ONMax. Distance willing to travel (hours): 8 hrs? Pretty interested in something like this. Summer is the hardest time of year for me to get away from work, but probably a good time of year for a meet. I am always a shoulder season hiker/camper, so Spring and Fall call out to me, but that's just one voice. I would be more concerned about making sure a date got at least roughly figured out as far in advance as possible, partly for work/holiday time but mostly so I don't have the car in pieces, or broken the week before. (I'd take the OB, but that would ruin all the 'twisty roads' part of the adventure... ) It would be very cool to meet a few the people on here in person!

I assume So Cal is southern California... The others?? Anyway. I would be drive a half day or so?? I don't know how far that gets me into America? Hmm Google says Philadephia is ~ under 7 hours... Not so bad. Are there are good places for a little twisty road action (+ camping?) somewhere in the general middle to north parts of the eastern half of the country?

This idea got kicked around before, and I was hopeful. If it does move along a bit, for the sake of the handful of Canadians on the board, at least *consider* having it somewhere reasonably accessable to the GTA/St Lawrence Corridor...? plz!

Interesting. I'll have to take a look at some parts diagrams and see if that parts look at all similar. Aside from Subaru building everything from the same parts bin, I don't know why the heater core would similar between the BP/BL and Tribeca, but they could be the same damn thing, for all I know. If time permits, another option to explore could be to remove and loop the hoses going to the core. Drain/blow the core out and fill with 10% acetic acid. (Cleaning strength vinegar.) If the deposits aren't ridiculous a few days of that could help and that shouldn't be enough exposure to acid to damage the core. if It did leak because of that, I would think it was on the way out anyhow.

This is the guide that you’ll find on the manual engine, but not the auto. Forgive the condition of the parts, they’re all junk. This is just my spare engine…. Ya know, because ynansb. Turns out the parts car I bought just for it’s block had a manual engine swapped in. (It was an auto…)

https://www.holley.com/products/gaskets/other_gaskets/parts/738G It’s actually silicon, not rubber… Or at least it felt that way to me. Great product in any event. Sealed up tight for me, despite my turbo being ever so slightly out of place. (My fault, and a problem for another day.)

Ah…. Should have mentioned that if you’re doing a complete engine swap, east peasy. If just short or lock block swap, you want to know what happened to the last one, and there is a list of parts to replace/have cleaned if there is any chance of metal having contaminated the oil, etc….

That is a sweet lookin’ car dude. I don’t think I’ve seen one in that colour in person.

Same same. Manual swap the wagon ftw…

Just figured I would throw this out there as well. If anyone else was considering a Subtle Solutions rad cover/shroud (black), RallySportDirect has exaclty 3 left. SS has blue and red if you're looking to add some bling to the bay tho. It works with the stock intake and is powdercoated stainless, which was the appeal to me, since I don't envisions ever getting to power level that require an aftermarket intake, and I lean on that part frequently, so I don't *quite* trust stamped aluminium to hold up to the abuse. I see this as a functional part more than just a dress-up. No tool tray. Sorry. Brad at Subtle was awesome, and I'm still buying some things from him instead of the cover. Happy to be able to support a small business at least a little.

Definitely improved smoothness at idle for me. I still haven't installed my SMFW, so I get some shudder/judder with low speed shifts still, but less with the Fluidampr. Installed with too many other things to be able to be able to say what specifically it was that caused the improvements, but I'm pretty happy in any case with the results. FWIW I do not find I have the stutter at the 2500 RPM point so many speak of, but I may not have before all the modding started.... It is a nice quality piece in any case, and I appreciate the added layer of smooth running and idle. I've also seen them on quite a few higher output engine builds on YT done by people whose knowledge and skill are far greater than mine. Interestingly/oddly they aren't always mentioned, but I see them on engines nonetheless... Maybe they either go under the radar, or it's something to do with not mentioning products who don't support channels etc... If the latter, then it's noteworthy that people use them a bunch without being sponsored by them..... tho that is just a theory.

This one is a long shot, but I thought I'd ask anyhow. Decided to try out a Subtle Solutions rad shroud, since any little bit of extra cooling help is good, and I've got some cruddy paint and rust on my upper rad suppor bar that could use hiding. They're the only one I found that works with the stock intake without being cut up.... Wrote to order one, and heard from the owner (seems like an awesome dude) that they only have red and blue, (which are out of the question) and are unlikely to make more given the age of the platform. I look through Classifieds often enough, but figured maybe someone has an old one lying around, or maybe has come across one in a scrapyard, who knows. Hit me with what you got if there is something out there. Next step will be cutting up a Grimmspeed one, since they're cheap enough. EDIT: Manufacturer doesn't have any/isn't making more (tho he answered a pile of emails, and very kindly offered to send a more expensive part in it's place....Thanks Brad) But some aftermarkets suppliers still appear to have stock. So, while trying to buy direct for max $$$ to small businesses generally, it didn't work out in this case.

Spendy! But not more than OE, and getting all replaceable parts is totally worth it. Thanks!

Also a possibility. I backflushed mine with as much pressure as I dared without breaking it… Got 2x as hot air on the drivers side… passenger was still cold as a nuns tit. I’d say do both, but this time of year, a heater core flush won’t be much fun. At least doing the actuator you stay dry.

Good writup on Daniel Stern lighting on correct aim for headlights. Some details there that were new to me. Using it shortly to see if I can correct my poor low beam performance, (post front end repair on the OB.)

This is cheating a little I suppose, becuase I would 100% want to stuff one of these into a 4th gen wagon chassis with a 5MT or 6MT... I fully expect that this will be more $$$ than is reasonable to build for anything for but a dedicated track or performance car, but!!!! 3.6R engines are common and cheap all over where I live. There is a smashed Tribeca in every yard you go to, often with not a million kms on them. 3.0's are not easy to find however; people really seem to hang on to their 6 cylinder L.L Beans. But if this does go through it would be the secret sauce for an NA Subaru engine would it not? Symmetrical rods in an engine build to handle 3.6L destroked a little and lighened up to spin to 10K?!? No time for math on break at work, but would that make this a slightly over square borexthrow?

Do NA Outback count too? (FebreezeMee set the precedent here, so I'm saying heck yeah.) Put the OB up on ramps in the back storage area at work, becuase there is a bit of space there right now. Trying to find the source of a rando quiet thunking noise I've been hearing. Might be cold-related? Don't know. Realized my resonator is not far from parting ways with the rear pipe, and I am leaking oil all over the damn place around the rack pinion, but none of it seems to be hitting the ground and causing a stain, so it can't be that bad?? I've been topping up about a litre per OCI, so I figured most of that was just getting comsumed. Going to pick up some UV dye and see if I can clean up the area and find out where it's coming from. It's not important enough to deal with now, given the weather, but might be a summer project when the GT is back on the road.

msprank brought up the very good point in another thread that if open source tuning isn't an option, or local tuners are hesitant to touch emissions codes, then EcuTek out of the UK is potentially a great option. The chances of them caring much about tuning a car that bypasses US emissions standards are slim, but that theory has yet to be tested.