KZJonny

I don't know of way aside from the very basic: cycle the key and listen for the motor to prime the system. If you had a loggable FP meter somewhere, that would maybe be able to give you a better idea of what was going on, and if the pump was say, falling down when the head pressure got too high, or some such. But I would think that's pretty hard to do with an analogue gauge, just because without being under load and high throttle % open I doubt you're going to put enough demand on the pump to see it working that hard. Only other ways I know to test a motor involve dissasembling them, and I don't think you'd have a fun time taking apart one of the AEM pumps and getting it back together and liquid proof.....

+1 for the mevotechs. I get the feeling they changed something/improved the ball joints from what they were originally using. Seems like the complaints I was seeing before about premature failures kinda dropped off over time. Now, I've 'improved' all the suspension in my GT, and just refreshed my OB, but the mevotechs are quieter and have better ride compliance than the control arms in the OB, which are OE style ball joint/front bush and an energy suspension push in rear bush. Next time, I'll either go back to OE style rear bushes, or just pony up for a set of mevotechs for the daily. Not worth the time and effort to go poly, in my opinions and really noisy as a result a well.

Yikes. Can't be of much help to you on the electronics end of things, but I do know a guy who's parting an '05 GT wagon (AT). If you don't find something local for a decent price, I'm sure I could ask him, if you have an automatic. Cheers.

Yes. Plug and play. If your engine is all good, you’ll end up with a driveable car for a few hours work + a parts car + potentially a rebuildable engine, depending on what went wrong with the ‘bad’ engine.

I didn’t find that job especially bad, and I am in the rust belt… I hit everything with penetrant a couple days in advance, and let it do it’s thing. When it came to actually knocking them out, after removing all the parking brake garbage, I backed out the hub retainer bolts about halfway, got more penetrant in where the hub seats in the knuckle, and hammered on the bolts from the backside. Usual process, going around in a circle. Did the trick for me. Cleaned everything up with some emery cloth, and used the bolts to pull the new hub into it’s seat. Now, if the CV axle doesn’t want to come free of the hub, that’s a different kind if fight.

Valid concern, to be sure. The excavation for the pad was 12” deep everywhere, and close to 15” at the edges where the thickened footing was poured. So, the main roots that would have been under the pad were dug up and removed. There will be some left down there, but getting them all would have meant digging a huge hole. I’ll have to hope I was thorough enough, but think it’ll be good. Going to spend much of the weekend cleaning up the yard to make space for a lumber delivery early next week. If things go well, I should be able to do most, if not all of the framing next weekend.

My friend is a crazy person. But he likes doing this kind of thing, so more power to him, and the job got done. Took another day to get the rest down, and an evening or two for me to buck it all up and chop up all the small stuff into bits for the city compost program to take, but it’s mainly done. The truss build order is in progress, and I’ll place an order for much of the rest of the lumber this afternoon. Lots got done, but it’s trying to beat the weather now and there is a lot to do!

I have a hard time nailing down which things I did contributed most to cabin noise, but I’ve definitely got some now. Hah. +1 on how much nicer the 5MT is with the group N mount tho. I would definitely do it again. Also have the (Energy Suspension) poly trans mount bushes, tho I don’t feel they are the worst culprit. I also have the sedan Borla exhaust and while the note is nice, I agree that the tips being recessed can’t help. Considering welding in some short extensions to see if it helps. Cheaper to start there then replace the whole (new) system.

+1 on this. Tho I did write and ask a while ago, and at the time he didn’t make one. Tired of looking at the aux port and wishing I could use it!

Spec B will be a 6 speed manual, have some fancy suspension bits and 18” inch factory wheels. Should have badging that says ‘Spec B’ as well, tho that theoretically could have been lost over the years. So, maybe you’re lucky there, but probably not. People selling a Spec B would usually know it, and be asking a premium because of it.

I now have three different types of anti-sieze and use them all regularly. This may be more of a rust belt thing, but it also feels a little like a Subaru owner thing as well...

That was a long morning.

All good dude. Don't mean to jump down your throat, but you've already been given links to "the recipes" Coles notes: - if you live where there is E85 readily available; get an HTA86 turbo, full fuel system, suspension, exhaust system (brakes?) and tune. Hold on tight. - if not, plenty of options, but within the realm of reason? JMP VF52, BNR 18-20g, Blouch 380 XT etc...93 octane tune, fuel system, exhaust, suspension, (brakes?). Hold on tight. Fahr Side's turbo wiki has this and a tonne more, goes into all the details of required vs. maybe optional mods at each point. You can use that to make a skeleton budget @ todays price's, and see where it puts you. Open wallet is great, but just for context, I probably spent 7-8K USD to get a safish 260-270 awhp, with awesome response and suspension to keep the wheels on the ground, and fix some of the normal LGT stuff. Just as a reference. I would guess past that your looking at like another $1500 for each 20hp or so? That's a very informal guess tho, probably more than that.

Just a question for ya, and if the answer is "yes" then shame on me, but what are you planning on doing with this car? Do you have 15K++ USD and dreams of drag racing, or this being a full time track car? If "no", then you need to stop for a minute now, read through more of the suggested posts from above and come back with some sensible questions. By the time you're getting into rotated turbo power, you're not using an auto (or at least not a 5EAT, you'll be into at least a built street/strip block +forged internals at minimum, etc..... If those are your goals, best to find a good builder and tuner and start talking with them. There is a lot of knowledge on lgt.com, and I know because I've gotten plenty of it over time, but once you start talking rotated turbo type stuff, 500++ hp, this stops being the best place to get your info, for the most part. Plenty of folks here making 350 awhp on stock frame turbos, and pushing the limits of 18 year old automatic transmissions... That is a *fast* car.... what exactly are you trying to make?

Lots of info on JMPs custom turbos around the site, generally very well regarded if you want to stay stock frame. (VF40/46/52) or get an improved version of a BNR turbo. https://www.google.com/search?q=jmp+turbo+site%3Alegacygt.com&rlz=1C1CHBF_enCA858CA858&oq=jmp+turbo+site%3Alegacygt.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.8845j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 I'm don't have an auto, so I don't know much about it. But there are various mods to the valve body in your transmission which improve gear holding and reliability. For your reading pleasure: https://www.google.com/search?q=5eat+valve+mod+site%3Alegacygt.com&rlz=1C1CHBF_enCA858CA858&sxsrf=ALiCzsYju6J2T2wx6xiSoxSHe-kh8R3QSQ%3A1666277101027&ei=7V5RY8uZAYqyqtsPkZSLmAk&ved=0ahUKEwiLxND1he_6AhUKmWoFHRHKApMQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=5eat+valve+mod+site%3Alegacygt.com&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EANKBAhBGAFKBAhGGABQnApY1Slg3DFoA3AAeACAAXuIAccJkgEEMTUuMZgBAKABAcABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz Getting used to the "search this shit site:legacygt.com" (site searching) in Google or whatever search engine your use should help you find better answers faster than using the search function built into the site.

The downpipe is manual specific, but if you're able to make up some bracketry, I think it can be used with an AT. All else is fine. If you need it to be bolt on, I think there are other options. Since you already have a downpipe, you could always collect the other parts you need/want new or used and save some cash. The GS intercooler is awesome, to be sure, but you don't really need it unless you're really turning up the boost. Same goes for intake. Consensus is that under ~350hp the gains with it really aren't work the money. You can probably get away with a new/used catless up pipe, a tune, and your DP for some noticeable improvement in power. Spend the money having your VF40 done over with JMPs Custom treatment, and enjoy faster spool and more top end all day. Stilll probably cost less than that Stage 3 kit, although that does seem like a decent discount for buying it all as a package... BoozeRS's advice is sounds. Take some pictures of the suspension mods you've got already. Could be useful by way of figuring out what the best next step it. Gotta get all that newfound power to the ground ya know!

I'd start with a visual inspection maybe? Get a flashlight and and eyeball on the seals. Torque convertor is always gonna leak a bit when you're pulling an engine. I you can't see any visible nicks or tears in the seals, I'd have a go at just stabbing it back in and bolting it back together. Unless the seals are cheap? Then just replace them for peace of mind. I can't think of any way to test shaft seals without assembling the parts.

Here are a couple: Just a couple I found really quick. Plenty more out there. Read most of the stickies in the 4th Gen specific forum. Skip the fluffy things about paint colours and whatever. -Read Fahrside's turbo wiki (with a twist!) -Read MaxCapacities engine build thread -Read the 200+ pages of debate about which BNR turbo to buy if you really want to kill some time, and learn a thing. I did, then had JMP build me a custom turbo from a spare VF40 I had... -etc.... If you come up with a plan, and start thread, then people can chime in with their opinions and experiences. It's worth nothing that there isn't much to be learned at this point about these cars and the EJs in them aside from what is beginning to become a pattern failure at 18 years old or whatever. Lots of "known" combinations for 'safish' power. Like I said earlier. Figure out what you're going to do with your car, power goals (unless you've got a major amount of money your want to burn, be reasonable) and budget. Expect to blow the budget anyway, but it won't hurt to start with a maximum in mind and price everything out at the start. I started out just planning on replacing the rusted out stock exhaust system, and ended up somewhere in the $10K CAD neighbourhood all of a sudden... I didn't write a budget tho, so shame on me. Work backwards from what you want from the car/want to use it for. You'll get more focused advice and probably be able to save a pile on parts you don't need.

If you happen to have a dehumidifier in your house, it also produces distilled (deionozed water) for free. Not exactly a big cost savings, but if you’ve got one, it may just save a trip to the store at least.

Sweet. The bracket in my car was rusted beyond recognition, so I removed it, and the carpet hook has ripped out. That’s a neat idea to make a retainer hook for my Weathertech liners. I think for $35 USD tho, I may just bend some aluminium bar and thread a ss cap screw into it…. $4 maybe? (For a thing that lives under a mat, I don’t know I care that it is wrinkle black 6061 series…!)

Removed pump. Cleaned melting paint from the gasket and mating surface and reinstalled with some non-hardening gasket maker on the top flange of the pump. There was a small (old) crack in the top of the pump housing. Torqued to ~40in/lbs…. Seems like a common problem, since the spare pump assy. I have also has the same cracking. Left it overnight to cure, and so far so good. Fingers crossed it stays dry! Doesn’t look like you can buy just the plastic pump housing, and the unit with a pump is like 3 hundo! Wouldn’t need the pump either, so that’s a waste of money.

Many delays later… concrete next Saturday. Getting cool here, so it will at least cure nice and slow, but may need to find some insulated tarps to help it out. The Ash tree in the middle of the photos should be coming down tomorrow, a friend of mine has taken up amateur arborism as a hobby, so has appropriate gear to zip line down the branches onto plywood we’ll set up in the rebar. I hate to cut down a nice tree, but it has some ash borer beetle starting, so it’ll come down on it’s own eventually, and I’d rather it didn’t do so on my garage.

Of course it does. I'll edit them into this post when I find them this evening. Fingers crossed the easy fix is enough. Next up is something that would look like your JB weld job, if there is cracking in the pump housing, or whatever. Bah!

Thanks. I was sort of thinking that maybe for this particular job, getting out the tiny torque wrench would be a good idea. More to make sure the clamping force is spread out across the gasket evenly that anything else. I don’t even know if the FSM will have a torque spec for those studs…

Yeah, it's the rears. The usual Subaru wagon rear wheel rot. I've got a pair of Subiesavers panels in the basement, just been too busy with every other thing in life to get around to it. I know roughly nothing about doing proper body panel work. I figure no matter how it goes, the car is going to be off the road for at least a couple of months while I learn the basics, do the job, redo half the job, realize I should have paid someone in the first place, then come around to feeling satisfied that I did the job myself.... You know, the DIY mentality/illness cycle. I also don't really have anywhere but my crap driveway to do it. So, my solution to not paying the body shop that is *literally* at the end of my street ~$1k/side to replace the rear arches, is to instead spend $30K on a garage so I can do the job myself. Probably poorly.