KZJonny

Spendy! But not more than OE, and getting all replaceable parts is totally worth it. Thanks!

Also a possibility. I backflushed mine with as much pressure as I dared without breaking it… Got 2x as hot air on the drivers side… passenger was still cold as a nuns tit. I’d say do both, but this time of year, a heater core flush won’t be much fun. At least doing the actuator you stay dry.

Good writup on Daniel Stern lighting on correct aim for headlights. Some details there that were new to me. Using it shortly to see if I can correct my poor low beam performance, (post front end repair on the OB.)

This is cheating a little I suppose, becuase I would 100% want to stuff one of these into a 4th gen wagon chassis with a 5MT or 6MT... I fully expect that this will be more $$$ than is reasonable to build for anything for but a dedicated track or performance car, but!!!! 3.6R engines are common and cheap all over where I live. There is a smashed Tribeca in every yard you go to, often with not a million kms on them. 3.0's are not easy to find however; people really seem to hang on to their 6 cylinder L.L Beans. But if this does go through it would be the secret sauce for an NA Subaru engine would it not? Symmetrical rods in an engine build to handle 3.6L destroked a little and lighened up to spin to 10K?!? No time for math on break at work, but would that make this a slightly over square borexthrow?

Do NA Outback count too? (FebreezeMee set the precedent here, so I'm saying heck yeah.) Put the OB up on ramps in the back storage area at work, becuase there is a bit of space there right now. Trying to find the source of a rando quiet thunking noise I've been hearing. Might be cold-related? Don't know. Realized my resonator is not far from parting ways with the rear pipe, and I am leaking oil all over the damn place around the rack pinion, but none of it seems to be hitting the ground and causing a stain, so it can't be that bad?? I've been topping up about a litre per OCI, so I figured most of that was just getting comsumed. Going to pick up some UV dye and see if I can clean up the area and find out where it's coming from. It's not important enough to deal with now, given the weather, but might be a summer project when the GT is back on the road.

msprank brought up the very good point in another thread that if open source tuning isn't an option, or local tuners are hesitant to touch emissions codes, then EcuTek out of the UK is potentially a great option. The chances of them caring much about tuning a car that bypasses US emissions standards are slim, but that theory has yet to be tested.

Same sentiment. Connecticut it just too far away to make it reasonable. My driveway would look good with a 3rd GT wagon in it. Living in the rust belt, I've done a couple subframes now, and I bet someone will take the job on. It's not super-fun and you tend to eat a lot of rust, but it's probably only lik 7/10 overall difficulty, 9/10 for cursing and discomfort. GLWS!

Gonna be cutting up the front of my car to replace some things, and that power brace might be a good idea just to make sure nothing flexes while I'm at it. PM'ing you now.

This is a real thing. I have no words.

It's probably a bit far, (almost 4 hours by google maps) but I'm parting out an 05 GT basic model with similar 2 tone cloth interior. I mentioned it elsewhere, but it's helping another owner find homes for the parts, since he has nowhere to store the car. Unless you had any other reason for going to Buffalo area, it's maybe not super appealing, but the cost would be about $0 for all the seats.... Don't know what the scrapyard is asking for the set. These ones are also in good kip, and wouldn't need the deep clean that those seem to. Just sayin. I don't stand to gain from this, just hoping to find homes for parts before the whole thing gets hauled off for scrap metal. I can take photos during the day if interested.... They are also basic, non-power seats which is appealing to some for the lighter weight, but I think all the seats and fabric could be moved over to the powered base easily enough...

Air pump delete kit might be the easier thing? Don’t know if you’d get a permanent CEL tho, and it’s getting harder to find a tuner to delete emissions related codes. As stated above, all else should be functionally the same. I know a guy who did something similar, tho I think it was an 06 into an 08…. I believe he kept the air pump, and VF46 as well.

Those look like they could come up nice with a little carpet cleaning action. Is that a non-GT? They don’t seem to have quite a much side bolstering, or the seat that contours to the head rest, but that’s being fussy.

Fair enough. Let me know which parts you need, and an address. Also, give me an idea from 1 to 5 blown head gaskets, how fast you need this. Happy to expedite, but this is Canada in January. Not every day is a suitable day to pull a door apart!

Colour matter? I'm parting an 05 in RPB (I think?) anything from inside the door is all yours. (Like, if maybe you can transfer all the lock parts to your handle plastics? It's not my car, but it was a "save it from going directly to the scrapper" thing, so I'm hosting it for a while....

Reasearch suggests not. Dang. Didn't read back far enough. Different socket, different bulb style... Reading suggests stock H9's are pretty bright when fresh tho. To the point where you can get an h7base/h9 burner for improved output. Might be just fine with fresh bulbs? I've never seen h9's locally, but it's probably a matter of time.

Hmm. I did both the rumble delete as well as kept dual exit mufflers with the Borla.... So, maybe not qualified to suggest anything, but has anyone heard of a ready-made muffler cut out insert? I have to agree that while perhaps sounds is more important than appearance to a certain sub-set, the single muffler conversion while leaving the other cutout empty does look a little redneck/amateur... IMO. I am partial to my 2 equal length manifolds as well.

Got a set in the mail right now. (Osram 9011 IR bulbs....) I don't use my hight beams a whole lot with the well lit highways around me, but I can take some before/after photos at least, and comment on how they last, tho that may take a while.....

Just picked up the new radiator mounts from Subaru. 45124AG010 I can *almost* understand why they’d have 2 parts numbers and 2 wildly different prices, but…. Nah. No. I have no idea why. This is the same part, down to the letter ‘B’ stamped into it, except for the $60 CAD difference in price. I’ll do a remove and replace thread when I cut out the whole rad support bar and everything. On that note, I was considering re-installing the support member using stainless nutserts instead of welding it back in. I know everything is structural in a way, but given it’s a pretty flimsy peice of metal that just holds up the rad and some wiring, I reckon it will be fine. Open to thoughts on that tho… EDIT: the ‘old’ one in the photo is borrowed, or I’d use that set. :0

I think in this case, it’s the blend actuator that mixed hot and cold air… The part numbers and locations are in that thread, I think. Including supercession numbers and which currently available ones work…

Hvac actuators. Passenger side is easy to swap, so you got lucky there. Driver’s side difficult to impossible depending on how big your hands are. lots of threads on this topic. jaylew’s is the one I read most recently.

!!! Those look damn close, and for a difference of ~$100, I’m willing to enlarge a bolt hole or make a spacer bracket… That seems like a reasonable price for some stamped metal parts. EDIT: $15.88 CAD/ea delivered to my local dealership, so I'll be the Guinea pig on this one. I have a set of GT lowers supports from a friend that were going to be templates for me to make new ones from SS. Since that's a project that never happened...... I will take some photos to compare the two part numbers. Fingers Crossed.

No worries man. I didn't mean to totally jack your for sale thread either. I was just trying to figure out what those were meant to fit. If I still lived in AB, I would probably be more concerned with high beams than I am living in Southern Ontario. Almost all the highways I take these days have overhead lights. I practically never turn my high beams on anymore. Not the case when I was living in the Rockies. Maybe PM me about the price on the Osram 200s lows then? Cheers!

That might be a deliberate left handed joke, but white text on a white background is hard to see..... What is your price on the Nightbreakers, and does slow shipping come in under $30 CAD to Ontario? I don't care if they take a month to arrive.... lol!

Huh. Very cool. I'll keep these in mind then, for sure. (I know you're getting low, so I'm sure I'll miss out on this batch). I've generally found the stock lighting setup to be fine on high beams, but really lacking on low beam, so that's part of why I was asking. Do you know offhand if an IR version of the H7 exists out there?

This is bit of a dummy question I suppose, but these are for foglamps? based on the the photos? I don't know what an H1R1 is exactly, but it doesn't seem like it works in the stock 9005 (according to google) socket for high beams, and those look nothing like the H7 lows....