KZJonny

I like the idea of black on Heather Grey, kinda less obvious. and if it didn't make the printing costs silly I would go for a small logo on the front, offset to whatever side (I suppose wearers left is standard) with a larger logo on the back. As far as the names thing, I'm ambivalent and always find it fun and a great memory thing to bring along Sharpies and get people to just sign the thing for you. Makes it a little simpler, in you get a custom tee you can hang up somewhere. I'd buy two, one to wear out and another for the garage wall with peoples signitures and LGT handles on it. Whatever people want to write.

Well, since this is partly my bad idea, I'll start. Not much of a list yet, but as I do work to prep the car for the trip to the meet, I'm sure it'll get longer. My wish list for parts none of which is critical: - side feed fuel rails and engine bay fuel pipes (stock), mine are okay, but rusty AF and it would be nice to have a set to clean up and coat in POR (or since I'll be tuning before too long anyway, top feed conversion rails if anyone has some sitting around...unlikely, but you never know...) - passenger side timing belt cover (or both) - Anybody who's parting a Spec B or (less likely) an STi that has the wiring harness that goes from the Fuel Pump Controller to the pump... Supposed to have heavier gauge wiring and be a direct swap out for the LGT. My list of spare parts would probably also be a little ridiculous, but it does fill a couple shelves, part of my garage and a pile in the backyard. I may have a problem..and you can help!

Silly question, but suggested folder to start it in? I live in the 4th gen world, but that isn't all of us. General Chat is kind of meant for other stuff than Legacy chatter. I'd put a link here either way, so it would capture the intended audience, but if possible, i'd prefer not to clutter the wrong places too much. (Per my other thread about dragging your old garbage to a meet.... )

Yeah, okay. I’ll start a thread then…. Hah! My garage isn’t even finished being built, and it’s already accumulating stuff. Packrat life.

It's not exaclty too late, I think... But as I am looking around for a couple of used parts in all the usual places like local classifieds, and ebay (and @jaylew might have solved my spare headlight units problem...) etc.. I figured if anyone else had a listing of wants and needs, we could start a parts swap thread for this as well. Post up anything you're looking for and maybe among the 20-odd of us showing up someone will have one sitting around needing a home. Pretty obviously it wouldn't involve too many large/really heavy items, but there would be potential for people to save some cash and maybe clear out the "I kept it just in case" boxes... Or does nobody else have like 8 boxes on the shelf of parts that are in pretty good shape but of questionable value, and are too lazy to list them for sale?

FINALLY! Confirmed delivery date for the lift. Next Monday, which is right after a period of days which are supposed to be dry and windy, so with a little luck, and a lot of plywood, hopefully they can drive a forklift right across the "lawn" and drop the packed lift right in the bay. Of course, I am a couple thousand dollars away from being able to run power out to the garage in any case because copper costs that much.... but at least it will be there, and I can stand it up and install it.

Okay, so I've got a question which has probably been answered a bunch, but I would like to confirm before doing something silly. I found lots of info on front CVs but not rears... Are the rear drive axles the same across different transmission for our 4th Gens? (Excluding Spec's because 6-speed/R180). I've found parts databases that seem to specify manual or automatic, but I never quite understood that since, it's the same R160 diff and the same hubs, but took it for granted. On closer look at the online parts catalogue: https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-axle-assembly-28421ag00c?c=Zz11bml2ZXJzYWxzLWFuZC1yZWFyLWF4bGUmcz1kcml2ZS1heGxlcyZsPTMmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1zdWJhcnUmbz1sZWdhY3kmeT0yMDA1JnQ9Z3QtbGltaXRlZCZlPTItNWwtaDQtZ2Fz It also lists these are 'automatic transmission shafts' but then does not have a separate number for a manual axle. Common sense dictates they'd be the same, but I've never considered swapping one across before. ATM I have a broken CV boot on my GT and 2 automatic axles to choose from. If I can not buy a new part, that would be awesome. I do know they are side specific, so I'll be sure to pull the correct one... EDIT: Further digging seems to indicate that are indeed the same dimensionally, and functionally, but automatic drive axles may have some slight internal difference to calm vibration due to always being loaded somewhat by the torque converter. So, they are different in that you'd rather not put a 'manual' axle in an auto for fear of excess vibration. Commentary still welcome, but I will see what happens when I pull my bad one... I have a pile of auto rear CVs that were going to go in the scrap metal bin. Might have to use on instead while I reboot mine.

No joy for me either with LEDs. And they weren't the cheapies, the projectors just didn't work well with them, and that was after I did a reasonably good job of correcting the aim. (Indoor area with flat floors and room to measure off 25ft and put tape on the wall, etc...) I got some Osram 9011s (highs) from tyler and they're pretty killer. I would say pretty competitive with the HIDs I used to have on the car. Not quite as good, but enough I won't be crashing into any deer at night anyway. Still kinda playing around with low beam bulbs to see what works best for me, but since most of that driving for me is on either highways with overhead lights, or in the city, lows are relatively a lot less of a speed/stopping distance thing most days. I'll be trying out some Osram Nightbreaker 200s from him shortly as well, for lows. They'd be the most expensive lows I'd have tried, but are supposed to be really good. I can take some photos if youd' like.... (before vs. after)

Got the rest of the roof wrapped in Deck Armor this weekend, so it rains less on the inside when it rains outside. Still gets a litte messy here and there tho, so Ima hust to get some Tyvek wrap up when we get a day that isn't windy. Typical Spring weather here, so it's one day in 2 weeks where it's been safe to get up on the roof and work. Not to mention how difficult it is to lay down 28' x 4' strips of roofing membrane with even the tiniest amound of a breeze. Much less typical Spring winds. *might* be able to get the ladders installed this weekend, which would mean the metal roofin can start just as soon as I find someone willing to help. Hah! We will see, but I think I should reasonably have an actual permanent roof on by June, for sure... Just on time for it to not rain a whole lot for a month or two. Hah!

Last night, not today. Installed Cusco RSB mounting point braces... They look nice, and I can see them providing some support for those dinky little factory ones, although I do with there was somewhere to triangulate them to for more strenth. Ah well. If they still bend, I'll deal with it as it happens. Screwed around with the kartboy endlinks the car came with and finally got them to be a whole lot striaghter than they were... I never realized how badly they were mounted to begin with, since they came on the car, and weren't exactly a priority... Should have known better, as everything else the PO did was kinda half assed and wonky. Also installe the ali trans support member I had in the 'to be installed' pile of parts. Weight a litle bit less and looks better that the hunk of rust that was in there before...

Always two steps forward one step back... Spent some time underneath the car marking out the RSB supports for drilling to match the USDM car. In addition spend at least a half hours screwing around with various performance shim combinations to get the sway bar links to be a little more nice and vertical, take some of the tension off the bushes... Only to notice while doing so that one of my out CV boots lost a clamp and puked grease all over the inside of my new aluminum JDM trailing arms.... Blah. So, add CV boot replacement to the list of things to do and find some rags. Hah!

Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller can also be configured to run as a 2 port. The instructions are available on the GS website. If you're already getting a tune, you might as well use the 3-port config. If not, then the GS unit is still probably an upgrade over the original one with xxxxmiles on it. Yeah. His turbos are awesome, and he rebuilds broken ones to better than new. He also just happens to be an incredibly nice guy who gives a sh** about his clients and the community here. Nothing but brotherly love for him around here.

Did you not like the answers you were getting in the other related thread you just started? Yes. You will almost certainly need a tune for it to run properly. For the other answers you need (catless vs. catted vs. welding in pipes), you’d best talk to a tuner first. Most won’t tune for catless DP’s these days because of emissions laws. A few still will, but you’ll have a hard time finding them. Plenty of places won’t even do JDM engines if they’re not familiar with them. If you can’t find someone to tune it, then you’re better off spending the money on some high flow cats, and figuring out why your engine clogged the first set in the first place…. They typically last an awfully long time unless they’re being poisoned with coolant or excess unburnt fuel/oil…. Scrap market pricing on cats these days should cover a bunch of that cost anyway. If you strike out and want to tune it yourself, there is a lot of information in the tuning thread and the hardware is cheap. Not an easy job, but people here have done it.

If you’re going from a stock pipe to aftermarket, definitely yes. If removing cats and welding in straight pipe in place, most likely still yes, outside chance you can get away with it, but probably getting into overboost territory.

I’d do pickup in GTA, or meet you someplace that works west of that, if you ever drive out this way. Let me know it CFPanda wants to pay the US premium, and if not maybe I can make the drive to TO.

Shame on you! Take it back! I feel ya tho man. I had all kinds of crazy ideas for one of my other cars, including a small blow-through carberetted turbo engine, or an engine swap with a modern turbo and fuel injection, etc.... Cancelled all of that to keep the boring 2.0L NA engine it came with... Not every project needs to be a high horsepower thing. As far as the cylinder 4 cooling mod goes, I tend to think it's worth the spend. The information Dom posted about it is at least collected in a scientific and repeatable fashion, and presented for what it is. It doesn't make cylinder 4 cold, just helps to eliminated the discrepancy between the four combustion chambers. I also think that fact this particular cooling route was stock on some JDM motors, right from Ma Subaru at least points in the direction that some engineers somewhere thought i was a good idea. (In Japan, that is). It's also like $1k less money than a EL header, which also helps with cylinder head temps, but especially if your keeping the twinscroll, I don't think an aftermarket EL header is gonna be cheap. (Unless the 20x is already EL?) All the rest has already been spoken to. I was told specifically by JMP (John) to use the stock oiling pipes for his custom, uprated turbo... He says they are the best thing available as long as they are in good condition. I didn't ask twice, and the turbo is running just fine. (no banjos, oil/filer change every 5K kms.)

How soon do you leave dude? Those Osrams are awesome in the OBW, and I figure I might as well just keep them there and get a second set for the GT. Just still recovering from the deluge of bills and surprising expenses that Feb/March hit me with. If I have the cash for a second set before you leave and they don't all sell, I'll pick one more up!

I’d be second in line after CF if the US shipping is a pain. Any chance that garage is somewhere in Ontario? Pickup is always better than shipping.

Hah! Yeah. I chuck a bag of chit in my double ipa's, helps get the total soluble protien up and hold 'haze', if you're into that kind of thing. I'm not, so much, but the market wants it... Best Pilsner is awesome tho, if you're into classic lagers. Anyway... And I am pretty sure that bolt with red locktite on it is one of them (the AC bracket?) If you like, I could back out that other one at the back and take a measurement for you. I just wasn't about to go looking for cold hand tools that late last night.

Lots of info in this thread for ya. I believe the exhaust cam needs to be advanced one tooth to work well without the avcs control being active. Wouldn’t have thought it would cause such bad misfiring, but it’s a place to start.

Napa carries ‘555’ brand ball joints. At least in Canada. They seem to be well liked by the Nasioc crowd anyway. I must have gotten lucky, since my mevotech stuff has been solid so far, but it the balljoints go, I was eyeballing those for replacements…

sorry for the garbage pics…. one seems to be just a bolt, the other the ¿power steering bracket? attachment point… late night photo, and it’s cold out there.

I’ve used Denso successfully. They make most of the other sensors on the car from factory, so I feel fine with it. Put new ones in my GT when rebuilding it, and no problems last summer. Others swear by Bosch, and it’s worth noting that many quality aftermarket wideband kits come with Bosch EUGO sensors, which must say something… I’ve got an NTK in my OBW that is… 7? years old and still working fine. I don’t know how they compare in price tho. I suspect less than $160.

With ya. Biology was always my best class, and probably my favourite too. My first degree in University was in Biology, and I worked for the Biology Dept for a little while too. Good times, but the funding and pay was crap, haha! So I moved along. Went snowboarding for a few years.. hah!

Just wondered if you've had a good look at the e-brakes by chance? Could be something rubbing inside the rotor hat? Around here, rust will sometimes cause enough expansion/flaking of the dust sheild/backing plate to cause actual brake noises and problems. It's a longshot, but sometimes when people say "checked my brakes" they just looked at the calipers/pins etc.....