KZJonny

Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex Ultra Grey/Black. All have worked well for me in the past. I use Hondabond on my air cooled motorcycles where an RTV sealant is required, and it holds up just fine. They see some pretty gnarly engine and oil temps, so I feel pretty good using it on automotive (liquid cooled) applications as well.

2.5i can be fun to drive as a manual, with some better sway bars and maybe tires and suspension. Aside from that, the above comments are correct, and the money will be much better spent just getting a GT out the gate. Make it handle a little better and enjoy it for what it is! There are supercharger kits out there, but they're probably worth twice what the car is at this point.... Take a minute to figure out what you *really* want from the car, and ask around here about how to do it, and what it will cost, etc.. These cars were kind of expensive when new, and there will be plenty that is ready to be replaced on any 4th Gen GT you find. Clearly, everyone here likes their GT, and we probably all spend way too much money on them, so join the club! Just as a reference, I have a *lightly* modded "Stage 2" car that is still rusty and in need of work, and THAT was like purchase cost +$7-8K CAD...

Bummer of a diagnosis dude. I am also in the 2.5i needs new head gaskets club. Looks like a simple enough job if you've got an engine crane tho... Nice having the double whammy of both CV grease and dripping oil to make it easy to see the condition of the engine at the head gasket! I've got a thread going on this elsewhere. I'll post up some pictures and my experience with the fix, if that would be in any way helpful to you. Cheers!

You don't have great luck with Evaporust do you? Don't put anything magnesium in it!!! It won't be there when you come back to fetch it.....

Would you care to share the torque stepping for the ARP method? I need to do the heads on my 2.5i, and I've read all sorts of things about how to re-torque the head bolts. I'll check all the numbers for both turbo heads and NA, but my understanding was that the multi step, tighten, loosen tighten thing was about stretching new bolts uniformly. If you're doing the work on the cheap like I am, and reusing head bolts (because studs are the cost of a new/used EJ253), then things change a little..... A little bit of JB weld might fill in those pits in the crossover pipe nicely? Give the hose a better chance of sealing up well.... Also, is it just the lighting, or did you blast the powedercoating off of the Fluidampr?!

10-32 thread pitch in a Subaru?! Blasphemy! The metric gods will be upset.

Sounds like this is going to become a beer swap meet more than a parts swap meet. Appropriate for a campsite. Hah! Looking forward to it even more now. I've had no takers for the functional 5EAT in my driveway. Who wants it?

Haha! I assume you're on stock VF40 at the moment? You're going to love this thing. I'd be really curious to know what you think if you happen to install it before the meetup.

How is this not sold yet? I am very happy to have directly supported JMP having him rebuild mine, but if I were still looking for a turbo, I'd have snapped this up in a heartbeat. Even has the sweet blue on black paint job! (Free bump, someone needs to pick this up and revel some snappy spool!)

A few friends and I did something like a few times. One game in particualar was listening to a Van Halen album, I forget which one. Not a fan of any of them, but it was a drinking game. Take a drink every time David Lee Roth did that "wooh!" yell thing in a song. It got messy quick. I don't recall a whole lot of the end of that album.... I will also gracefully bow out of any drinking competitions, Lol! Those years a a little behind me as well.

I'm not sure if you're pulling my leg here or not... But Rick Moranis and Dave Thomas are Canadian. They both were in SCTV, a Canadian Scetch Comedy Outfit. The movie was filmed in Canada, by Canadians and the soundtrack is by featured Geddy Lee of Rush, maybe the best known Canadian rock band of all time. (Not a fan) I don't know any of us who are offended by it, it's pure local genius.

I’m not selling kool-aid about brands. Buy what you like and can afford! I think the NTK was the best I could afford at the time. I’ve had success with Denso in my Japanese cars over the years, but the Bosch sensor in my wideband has also been reliable. Ymmv. Do you only get fuel trims for 1&3? Without knowing how your obd reader displays info, I have no insights, but a trim of -100% definitely seems to indicate something wonky… maybe someone who knows a little more about how to interpret that can help. I’ve become spoiled by having an Accessport now.

Take off eh? Hoser. There may be a few of us, so be careful. Might have to drink a few if those are the rules!

Yow. Was that how the turbo drain was the whole time?? That is some bad mojo right there.

I’ll bring some along for anyone who wants to try something from Canadia then. I’m the brewer at a small craft place. Always quality over quantity. Although that said. Yeungling is one of my favourite beers of all time. Can’t wait to get some from close to the source.

If you drink beer, I'll bring you a sample of a few from my "business" in exchange for a hat, if that seems reasonable. I may have missed the boat on being a customer, but I sure as hell learned a lot from reading through your posts on here over the year. Cheers to that. (Or not in exchange for a hat, even just a thanks for the thousands of posts and tons of info, not everything in life is an exchange.)

Uh oh.... What else do I own that needs a turbo? Where can I get a blow through carb in a hurry? Seriously. Who is coming that does road tuning? This could turn into a track and tune weekend for someone!

Any idea how old the sensor is? Genuine Denso part or maybe not? I did not dig as deep as you did, looking at trims and mA of the AF, but when I started getting P0420 codes I chucked in a new sensor, and have been all good since. I must have 6-7 years on my OBW, which may actually be an NTK part. The GT got a Denso, and 2 years on that so far without issue. Not necassarily one to just start throwing parts at a problem, but if the sensor is sending bad readings and nothing else points at a problem, it's probably it. They're a wear item after all....

Perfect. That was what I figured, but there was always the chance it had some kind of directional polarity. I'll attempt to cut up/hack off the correct side sensor, which would mean I wouldnt have to twist it 180 to make it face the right direction. It wouldn't have a tab to bolt it in if the opposite one was used either, so it could rotate and rub on the tone ring. (Common failure for speed sensors around here is rust pushing out the tone ring, which then cuts into the flat face of the sensor, killing it.)

Fill the reservoir up to nearly the very top. Leave a little bit of room, since you might get an air bubble or two. Or put some rags/paper towels around it to catch what might spill over. Go lock to lock a few times, cap it up, and go for a drive. If everything checks out, and the PS system feels fine, let it all cool down, and remove any extra fluid.

If you can turn the wheel with the car on, then just bleed out the pump.... If you turned it by hand that much, it should at least have fluid it, so it would be primed a little. The resevoir is above it as well, so top it *right* up and gravity will help you out. It sounds like the wheel locking is a seperate problem. Get the PS pump working, and drive the car around a little. As mentioned above, it mike groan and shudder a little at first but I imagine you'll be fine. I did my rack + lines last summer, and it primed right up. By the time I turned the wheel lock to lock a couple of times, it was all good. Topped off the resevoir and haven't had to touch it since.

It's the GT. Not my daily, so yeah.. I'll have a go at it. But before I go to all the trouble of installing it into the 'good' brackets, I'll see if just plugging it in clears the code. It's supposed to be above zero Celcius next week, maybe. So, it can wait a little. Parts car is not 'mine' and the fellow who owns it has everything he needs out of it, so I'll be happy to move it on and get my driveway back.

PM sent.

JMP will confirm, but i am pretty sure that you could use this turbo as a direct swap for OE in the short term, as long as,and I quote "You don't drive it like an asshat." (That may have been a reflection on whether or not this thing will roast your clutch, which it will in time.... but the lesson is the same.) Longer term, you want a tune to take advantage of the extra awesome it comes with. I'm still on COBB stg. 2 91 octane, while fuelling with 93 as often as I can. Keeping everything nice and safe while waiting to install everything and get a tune with Dave at Cryo. This thing comes onto boost so quick, and pull so much further than stock, it's surprising for such a small turbo. No way the stock maps are going to know what the hell is going on. I mean keep the boost moderate and stay away from red line, and you should be good. Get into the "full send" portion of the maps, and I suspect you might start seeing some problems with overboost etc...

This is more of a home alignment thing, but it's worth a shot if you have the materials... Per side, use a couple of old floor tiles / thin peices of plastic / ?thin cardboard if you have to? Put a good smear of general purpose grease between the sheets/tiles, etc.... slide under tires with car lifted up a bit, or drive on to them. Whatever. Just gives the wheels/tires something to rotate on without shredding the tires. And this might be too obvious, but have you tried 'jiggling' the wheel a bit while turning to the ON position to unlock it? Mine will sometimes not want to unlock if I've moved it while it was off without messing with it a bit...