Scooby2.5

You do not do this on the DCCDpro and it looks like from looking at the instructions you dont on the mapDCCD either. Am I missing something? Here is the mapDCCD: Auto Required connections: • Power (11~15V) • Ground 1 (low current sensor ground) • Ground 2 (high current power ground) • Throttle position sensor • Two DCCD control signal wires to gearbox Maps 1 – 4 Required connections: • Power (11~15V) • Ground 1 (low current sensor ground) • Ground 2 (high current power ground) • Throttle position sensor • RPM/tachometer signal • Two DCCD control signal wires to gearbox Optional map mode connections: • Vehicle speed sensor • Brake pedal • 0-5V external input signal • 0-5V OEM thumbwheel input Here is the DCCDpro: • Red = 12v positive (switched power) ***Note: Do not connect to “always on” power*** • Green = 0v negative (ground) • Black = DCCD “B128 pin 1 (Black wire in tranny harness to dccd)” • White = DCCD “B128 pin 4 (Green wire in tranny harness to dccd)” • Brown = Ebrake cutout wire (ground this to stop DCCD activity) • Blue = TPS: (Download appropriate Subaru ECM Schematic from website) Cable throttle = “B135 pin B7” Drive by wire <2006MY = “B136 pin B18” Drive by wire 2006MY+ = “B134 pin B18” I dont see a G-Force sensor for the mapDCCD????? DCCDpro comes with a G-Force Sensor that you glue to the floor under the console in the center of the car. I would suggest reading through the DCCDpro instructions found on their website, and also the mapDCCD instructions. They hook up similar so you might gain some details from reading both Hope that helps

barman you might get a hold of fenominal (jason davis) he is out in CA and had some custom outback suspension stuff done by a well known company out there. There are some pics on the forum. Contact him, tell him Greg sent you and he can tell you what they did. It was really nice from what I remember.

DCCD is only two wires coming off the transmission. Better check with your version of DCCD for the wiring. DCCDpro by the way is able to be programmed as well from what I understand. There are posts on the reverse switch and the neutral safety switch. If I remember correctly you use the NS switch from the legacy and the reverse backup light switch from the STI and yes they plug right in. On my neutral safety switch I had the problem of it not staying on/off like it should, it was flickering so I went to napa and I got a more thin copper washer to put on my new NS switch and that fixed the problem. So basically you have 2 wires for the NS, 2 wires for the RB, 2 wires for DCCD and a harness for the O2 sensor. I plugged the RB, and NS switches into the harness and then cut the DCCD wires out and ran them up into the the boot, into the cabin, along the reverse lockout cable. That way the connection to your DCCD is inside the shifter surround inside the car. If you use the STI O2 sensor extension harness then you will need the Legacy adapter (which is real short) on the end of it to plug into our factory harness. If you dont use that you can plug the O2 sensor right in to the legacy short piece that is plugged into the factory harness. I used the STI extension piece so my O2 sensor plugs into that near the back of the transmission on the bottom under the car. The STI O2 harness then travels up to the dog bone area. Plug your short legacy adapter in to this and then in to your factory wiring harness.

Here is the thread Stumbling idle can be caused by these and it will not necessarily show a code. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-p0021-intake-camshaft-position-timing-over-advanced-18887.html

To remove the plastic connector you pull the yellow tab out. Then you take a pick of some sort and there is a tiny tab you push in and then pull on the wire. It will pull right out and just snap them back into the new connector, then snap the yellow tab back in. That way you dont have to even change the pins Log your AVCS left and right banks. If they are not linear together and are all wacky change the Oil control valves. I think I posted in this thread about them. If not look up philT thread on the OCV and read that thread. Not sure how many miles on your car but I have replaced these at around 80k and now again at 203k

Good idea to change coil pack or swap with another cylinder. Can you log misfires with an AP or anything? Here is the coil pack connector. You can buy them here on eBay or go to outfrontmotorsports website http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?index=0&sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=300843950050 You can actually change the plastic portion by popping the pins out oif the existing one. I have done it and its real easy You need yo log yo see what is going on. Could be OCV with the idling issues.

Nope just call josh nahum at import image. That is how I got my BC/BR outback coils

I was wondering where it went. LOL

Yep Im on BC/BR coils...... 9.5 rim and offset 38 would cause hitting like you said. I will say if I wasnt as low as I am, it wouldn't hit at all.

Any by the way for those interested: http://www.ebay.com/sch/hkbelect/m.html?item=220813262467&clk_rvr_id=249453302475&afsrc=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

I have 245x45x18 on stock 18.5" 55 offset STI Enkei wheels. Used a 15mm adapter from adaptech which gave me a 40 offset. I had to roll the fenders a bit but it looks great. Need to roll the front now as once in a while it hits...

Ok if you want to talk about a diode in the alternator wire take it over to NASIOC where there is a long thread about this......

Today I removed my shift lever from my Spec B STS by STI out of the performance catalog part #C1010AG101 I replaced the lever with a Cobb Spec B Double adjustable STS part #224316. Cobb is way better. I lengthened the bottom half and it really cut the throw down A LOT! Its more like my Hurst Shifter was in my 2003 Cobra. I also lowered the top half to make the lever shorter as that is the way I like it. Kevin if you get the Cobb lever, you can make it as high as you want and still have a really short throw. I HIGHLY recommend this shifter.... So I am basically running all the stock STI/Spec B shifter bushings and the Cobb Lever. Quiet as a mouse and good firm short shifts.

I took a picture of the difference between a stock 5 speed stick and the Spec B STS by STI out of the performance catalog. Ill post it here when I get the picture uploaded later.....

There are multiple shifters 08 up STI shifter 08 up STI STS from the Subaru Performance Catalog 08 Spec B shifter 08 Spec B STS from the Subaru Performance Catalog I am not sure anyone has compared all of these to see if one is shorter than another. You would have to measure from the ball end to the center of the pivot point on each to know. I could give you the Spec B STS from the Performance Catalog measurement soon as I am getting ready to take the shifter lever out and put in a Cobb STS

Aeromotive Fuel Pump Control Module http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/ http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/16306.pdf [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Aeromotive-16306-Billet-Fuel-Controller/dp/B003XVI3WU]Amazon.com: Aeromotive 16306 Billet Fuel Pump Controller: Automotive[/ame]

Line fitment on legacies????

The LED on the factory manual/auto switch glows solid on when in manual mode. When in auto mode the glowing is progressive depending on how far the thumbwheel is turned up and how much throttle and G force you are applying while driving. The LED shown in this pic http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMAG0071.jpg

That is the factory switches for an STI. DCCDpro will include them with their product if you decide to get them. Looks good Wax, great job! Wasn't too bad was it cutting the holes and putting them there?

Already been posted I believe. I think I posted the chart as well a few pages back

Good luck with that

510 This thread was mostly for the 05-08 I would guess Bottom line the wiring on a legacy is much smaller than that in an STI Subaru is probably figuring that these cars do not need the larger gauge wire. With that said..... You could pull your panels and take some pics and let us know what gauge wire is in the newer legacies. I would imagine it is the same. As frankster said its not a problem on a stock car so no need to fix it

Yes, it will be low but yes. I chose to get the BC/BR coils with the outback specific cartridges. That way if you want to go up or down you can. Josh Nahum from Import Image can help you if you call him. I would just put the coils on and not mess with the Outback "lift" I am only doing it to get rid of all the spacers and have a bit more travel in the rear with the control arms that are shaped differently. I would NOT do part of the spacer removal as you will affect the transmission, driveshaft, rear diff alignment. The shifter and the cross member is not a problem at all with the coil overs as you are not changing the body lift, you are only changing the suspension ride height. If you remove the body lift spacers for example in the cross member you are actually moving the transmission up closer to the body tunnel. Totally different than the susupension at the corners.

Oh and I would do the full geometry swap or do not do it at all. Your driveline will be out of whack if you do part of it but not all.