cww516

I believe Exedy is Subaru's supplier, so that's probably even the OEM part, but without the OEM pricetag.

Yup, that's probably it. That's how they make it work on the Autobahn- you can go as fast as you want (in some sections), but it's very illegal to pass someone on their right. That's why people will get within a few car lengths before moving over to the left, and cut back in pretty quick, no telling when someone will come screaming up behind them at twice their speed.

No need to close it, just let it fade into the distance. Could be helpful to someone in the future, too.

The STI transmission is actually a completely different unit, cable shifter or not. The LGT 6MT is actually the same as the pre-2015 WRX (and everything else besides the Spec.B) 5-speed with an extra gear jammed in and a cable shifter instead of a linkage. I'm guessing the shifter has something to do with it, although my Baja feels fairly notchy as well. Granted, it has twice the miles that the Legacy does, so it's not a fair comparison, and I have no idea when the last trans fluid change was done on it.

Those are the front bushings, right? Anything I've seen from anyone who replaced those don't bushings said that they introduce a massive amount of NVH, while providing no noticeable benefit. That was for poly bushings, though, no idea if those would be as bad being rubber.

Going through the browser can be a pain, the site is pretty particular about upload sizes and formats. I usually have to resize pictures in MSPaint before I can get them to upload, although once in a blue moon one of them will upload at full resolution.

My guess is that's meant to suggest that you shouldn't use a higher-ethanol blend (E15 or E85), not that you can't use higher-octane E0-E10 fuels. Like DrD123 alluded to, octane rating is a measure of resistance to detonation (fuel/air mix igniting due to something other than the spark plug firing), and as long as it's good quality fuel, running a higher octane rating shouldn't be a problem.

Not quite directly- the front needs to be shortened a little (as I recall, could be that it has to be lengthened) and the flange needs to be rotated. You'll probably be getting some fab work done in that area anyway due to the factory cats not being able to survive with the Raptor headers for very long, so assuming you do get the headers, a GT exhaust will won't really be any less bolt-on than anything else.

On a 5th-gen Legacy, the drain plug is pretty well protected (and with a Fumoto valve, bordering on blocked) by the sway bar, so if you happen to hit something that damages the valve, you'll probably have bigger concerns than a slow oil leak. If brass vs. steel is your concern, there are other quick-drain valves out there, and some of them are steel, so that's still an option.

I know there's supposed to be some sort of a heat shield blanket thing stuck to the engine side of that under tray, is there any evidence of that still being there? Mine's soaked in oil and trying its level best to fall apart, but I haven't noticed the tray melting or anything. The heat shield that bolts to the headers and turbo is pretty swiss-cheesed, too, so I don't know that that'd be it. If you're suspecting a leak and have a way to get under the car with the engine running, you could hold a lit candle near any joints in the exhaust, and that'd make it pretty obvious if there's a leak.

Just a reminder, the rule is 15 contributory posts to be allowed access to the member classifieds.

Any chance you filled up on gas right around the time you started pushing it a little harder? There's a chance it could be something as simple as bad gas.

245/40R19 will fit with no issues (basically the same as the 245/45R18 I'm running), but I couldn't say on the 245/45R19. What's the width on those wheels?

Resetting the ECU would reset your DAM to .812, assuming something made it drop, but I'm not sure that affects anything other than timing. Could be that there's some other learned value that's getting cleared as well, or maybe the ECU pulls boost as well as timing if DAM drops low enough.

Got 'em.

Chevy SS, but badge un-engineered to look like it's Aussie counterpart, the Holden Commodore. Come to think of it, I saw a red SS with Holden badges on the road near me a couple years ago- took me a second to figure out what I was looking at.

I used to have problems with mine losing power, but they disappeared completely when I replaced my dead OEM boost gauge and harness with a Podi unit. Whatever the problem was, it was in the boost gauge tee harness between the dash harness and the head unit, or in one of the connectors.

Let's keep the personal insults to a minimum, folks. Try to give me a reason not to close this thread, bearing in mind that rehashing issues which have already been addressed in other threads probably isn't going to cut it, and bickering with each other definitely won't help.

Yarp. In other news, the lastest post in the new member section is by Nico- lots of tasty updates in his recent posts, time to see what he's been up to...

From what I remember, the rear windshield didn't have to be replaced, just removed and reinstalled. That said, I don't know that it bothers me enough to spend money on it either way.

I get it when it's really cold out (10F or below) and the car sits outside overnight, but nothing has broken yet. I think I remember seeing where someone had the rear windshield reinstalled (fresh/more urethane), and that cured it for them, but I wouldn't go as far as saying that's a universal cure-all.

Rear pads could be traction control related, since the 5th-gen pulses individual brakes to pretend like it has a rear LSD (as opposed to the VLSD in prior years), but that seems awfully quick.

Hi there! The reason you're not able to list your car in the correct location is that you're a new member- once you've made 15 posts and been on the site for 30 days (see here), you'll gain access to the Marketplace, and you'll be able to post a thread at that point. In the meantime, please don't link to the site you set up to sell the car, as that's technically a circumvention of the 15-post requirement. Once you have your post count up and are ready to make a thread in the Marketplace, don't forget to take a look at the section-specific rules (here) and make sure you meet the formatting and picture hosting requirements. Good luck with your sale, and welcome to the site!

I made it through Mt. Rushmore, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton with 3 people (plus camping gear) crammed into a Hyundai Accent sedan, so if you're going solo, you should be just fine with a Cruze. Might be gutless, but you should make it.

Run it up and hold the switch up for a bit, and do the same thing for down. I think there's some sort of fancy current-sensing circuitry that has to calibrate so that it knows what "normal" load is compared to stall current.