cww516

My Primitive Racing skidplate looks pretty nice sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed! For the record, there are other users on here who have actually installed theirs and have high opinions of them, so that's where I'd start looking.

Stopped before you had to empty your wallet for the toll booths on 390 and figured you'd get a picture while you were there, eh? The I-Pass trip calculator says it's only $3.80 cash / $1.90 I-Pass end-to-end (only about 10 miles, for those not from the area, and the same distance on I-90 just north of there is $2), I as under the impression it was closer to double that. Did traffic back up bad enough on 19 that they dropped the rates or something, or am I misremembering how expensive it was? I have a couple of friends who live (or used to live) off of Roselle right around there, I always avoided 390 like the plague.

I'd guess that it's probably more related to the ambient heat and low speeds than to the AC being on. The AC compressor does consume horsepower, so you'd be warming up the coolant a little, but probably not enough to affect the transmission temperature- the only way that would happen would be if the coolant was hot enough to either warm up the transmission fluid in the trans cooler loop in the radiator, or if it was hot enough to keep the trans fluid from rejecting heat fast enough to maintain temperature. At low speeds, the torque converter (and pretty much everything else in the transmission, really) basically just converts mechanical energy into heat, and since the oil pump isn't moving much oil through the system (or through the cooler loop in the radiator) at low RPM, all that heat is hanging out in the transmission. Once you get up to speed and get that oil moving, you shed a bunch of that excess heat pretty quickly. That's just an educated guess, I'm not a CVT expert by any means.

Just wait until you start to notice that the clutch pedal feels like it's connected to the clutch by way of a kickball. ...and like any good enabler, I'll even provide a link: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clutch-damper-valve-delete-223235.html

I had that happen when I bled the clutch after deleting the damper, and that was a few years ago, haven't had any long-term issues. As long as you bleed it properly, having the pedal go to the floor like that shouldn't cause any damage. There's a spring in the pedal that will hold it either all the way up or all the way down if there's no pressure in the line to push it back up. When you crack the bleeder, you release that pressure, so there's nothing to push the pedal back out.

The speedometer reads a little high (~3% or so compared to GPS, from my observations) on the stock size tires, so you should be almost dead-on "the same" as compared to stock, but not quite dead-on accurate like you would be with the 245/45R18. I think I mentioned this in a different thread already, but I can definitely see a difference in the butt dyno charts when I switch between my summer (245/45R18) and winter (225/45R18) sets. Pretty sure my next set of summer tires will be 245/40R18.

As a way to combat spam, restrictions were put in place a year or two ago which require a user to have made 15 contributory posts before being able to start a new thread or post in the classifieds (as detailed here), so that's likely what you're up against. Once you get up to 15 posts, the system should automatically grant you access.

There's also a chance it's "normal" EJ255 stuff- I have a bit of a stumble around 2200 RPM, although it's generally only noticeable when the car is warming up (Cobb OTS Stage 1 91 tune). There's a pretty lengthy thread about this over in the tuning subforum, and I want to say it has been brought up in the 5th-gen forum at some point as well. I moved my fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference from the nipple on the cylinder 4 intake runner to something off the back of the plenum, and while I'd like to say that helped, I don't notice the phenomenon often enough to know for sure. Sounds like putting a few extra feet of fuel line in there helps a little by damping out some of the pulses in fuel pressure, but I haven't gone that far with it.

Out of curiosity, are you using the "auto" setting on the headlight switch, or are you manually turning them off and on? If the daylight sensor on the dash burns out, the low beams will never actually turn on. Drove the car home in the rain like that just after I bought it, thinking that the headlights were way crappier than I would have expected, but that was because all I had lit up was the DRLs. I'll be honest, I don't even know if the AU market cars have daytime running lights, so this may not even apply for you. You mention having HIDs- it could be that the reflector bowls inside the headlight housing are burnt. I'm not sure how the reflector coating differs between housings used with factory HIDs vs. halogens, but I've heard of burnt bowls happening with HID retrofit kits, and I suppose it's not impossible with factory HIDs.

Any chance you have unfinished ceilings between the underside of whatever room your router is in and the box in the basement? I'm lucky enough to have a drop ceiling on the lower (garden?) level and no ceilings in the basement (house is a quad-level), and I ran a couple cables to rooms upstairs by drilling through the floor in an area that's covered by an air vent and dragging them across the drop ceiling. The problem with wireless extenders is that unless you shell out a whole pile of money for one, you're still not going to get your advertised speeds, because they have to send and receive data between the main router and all attached devices. If you wanted to add a wireless access point that's connected to the router via an ethernet cable, or set up some sort of mesh network with a wired backhaul, that'd probably be the best of both worlds. I know my Asus router can be set up in a mesh with either wired or wireless links between routers, although I haven't done that myself.

Now that you mention it, that does sound familiar. I don't think I was able to get it out with the socket still on the nut, and I probably had to wiggle the diff a little to get the stuff to clear the spare tire well. It's been a few years, so I don't really remember some of the finer points, but I definitely ended up with the stud in my hand and the nut still on it, that much I know for sure.

Same thing happened to me. I just pulled it out that way, and put a dab of Loctite on the threads of the stud when I reinstalled it. Ideally, you'd take the nut off of the stud, wind the stud in finger-tight, then retorque the nut, but you kinda have to have 2 more of the correct size nut to get the locknut off of the stud, and I didn't.

350WHP/350WTQ was the figure I had heard, but that's probably no more reliable than your 400 ft-lb number in terms of actual accuracy, and I think that was without installing blast plates. I do remember something from fahr_side saying that the difference in performance between an 18g and a 20g on a stock engine was that you shift the curves about 500 RPM to the right, and that the peak numbers stay about the same. I think he had said that the STI exhaust cams would help you to take advantage of the bigger turbo, though. Not sure if you've read through jackal8788's build thread, but there's a lot of good info in there comparing the two, since he ran both. I don't think he ever upgraded the cams, though, so it won't be 100% relevant to your use case. Post 770 or so is the start of a good string of posts comparing dyno results between both turbos, and if you search within the thread for "cam" you'll get a few good discussions about the benefits.

Unless the tensioner has already been replaced by someone who installed it with plenty of silver Loctite (aka cross-threaded the bolt), it's pretty straightforward. That tensioner looks a little different from what I've seen on gas-engine models here, but judging by the direction it's pushing on the belt, there should be a 1/2" (13mm) square drive on the arm somewhere. Might make your life easier to take the engine cover off first, just to have a little more room to operate, but you'll plug a 1/2" ratchet wrench into that square drive and pull counter-clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt, and pop the belt off of one of the pulleys and let off on the tensioner. Replace the tensioner, look at the belt diagram sticker and scratch your head for a couple minutes, loosely route the belt, use your 1/2" drive ratchet to pull on the tensioner, and slip the belt back onto the last pulley. Assuming you have a flat-ish multi-rib belt and not a pair of vee belts, make sure all of the ribs are in the right grooves on the grooved pulleys, and the flat side is more-or-less centered on the flat pulleys. While you're at it, this wouldn't be a bad time to replace the belt (assuming that hasn't been done recently), since you'll be in there anyway. Couldn't hurt to spin/try to wiggle the idler pulleys, too, just to make sure the bearings are still good. You'd be able to hear them if they were bad, but like I said, you're already in there, may as well.

For what it's worth, the difference between my 225/45R18 snow tires and my 245/45R18 (~3/4" larger diameter) summers is pretty noticeable in the butt dyno. I'm sure the extra weight of the wider tire has something to do with that, and even though my 18"x8.5" Enkei Raijins are 4.4lb lighter than the stock wheels, most of that is probably in the spokes (ie. not making as big of a difference as far as moment of inertia). I'm going to be due for a new set of summers pretty soon, and I'll probably be going with a 245/40 this time around. The 45 aspect ratio fits, looks good, doesn't rub (+45 offset), and adjusts the speedo to match GPS dead on, but, well, racecar...

There's a small vacuum line running to a nipple on the bypass valve, that's the one he's talking about using. That line snakes its way around the engine and into a port on the back of the intake manifold- air in that line will either close (under manifold boost) or open (under manifold vacuum) the BPV, hence the name. It's a convenient point to use for this test because you won't have air coming out of that port on the BPV when you pressurize that line, or at least you shouldn't. You'll be able to see it (more or less) under the car, but you'll be able to get a better grip on it from up top. Take the passenger's side radiator fan out before you start yanking on that line, though, the skin on the back of your hand will thank you for it. Ask me how I know that one...

With all that room, that sounds like a good opportunity for a turbo EZ30 or EZ36. Not sure if AWD would be feasible, at least not with a Subaru transmission, the front axle may be too far forward. Then again, I've seen stuff where people have made the front wheels chain-driven, so anything is possible.

I needed battery and ignition+start power when I installed my boost gauge, and I ended up with an add-a-fuse in position 10 (D-OP +B) for battery power, and another one in position 27 (currently empty) for ignition power that stays hot while cranking. The one you chose (position 1) comes through fuse #1 under the hood rather than #17 like position 10 does, but they come out of the same 50A slow-blow upstream of that, so you should be in good shape. That's assuming they didn't change things too much pre- to post-facelift, but I'd guess not.

I think I got that same email- I figured it was a remnant of when Comcast lost a bunch of account info a couple years ago (because I reuse passwords like a noob), but that's the same password I use here as well. I'll see what has to be done about putting up an announcement about changing passwords.

Images in the classifieds need to be uploaded directly to the site instead of through Tapatalk, so that may not be the worst thing in the world. I've been able to upload images through the desktop view from my phone before, although image size has been an issue with that as well.

I think S2baru had to do that, but he has non-OEM STI cams.

That's inexpensive enough that it may be worth picking up just to have. Of course, I'd have to buy an air hammer, but I've been looking for an excuse to do that for a while now. Working from home with easier access to the internet is dangerous for my wallet, no doubt about it...

Both will evaporate out, but MAF sensor cleaner is intended to be gentler on plastics, assuming that's what you're concerned about. I'd lead with MAF sensor cleaner, see what (if anything) comes out, and go from there. Edit: I forget, what do you have in the way of a BPV? If you're on the stock one, those do leak at higher pressures, so that could be related to what he's seeing. That's about the top end of the stock turbo's efficiency range, so it's going to be spitting out some pretty hot air anyway, and that leak only makes the turbo work harder, not to mention recirculating that hot air. Hotter air out of the turbo will lead to lower manifold pressure, assuming manifold temperature stays the same. Definitely a bit of a reach, but replacing the factory BPV definitely helps with holding boost.

Looks like it's $25 if you just get the bare shocks, $50 if you get a pair of complete bolt-in strut assemblies and a pair of bare shocks, or $75 if you get 4 bolt-in strut assemblies. Pretty sure option 3 doesn't exist for us (no bolt-in rear assemblies), but option 2 would be nice for someone looking to freshen things up and upgrade from '10-'12 to '13-'14 suspension. I've been thinking about replacing the shocks on the Baja, since I'm not sure how many of the nearly 200k miles these have been around for, looking like I'd be at around $225 after 5% discount code and rebate. Could be better, but that's not too bad.

I have a set of Rhino Ramps, which I've been pretty happy with. If you're at stock ride height, they're fine, but if you're lowered, you may have to get creative. I'm lowered 1" from stock, and they clear my front bumper by maybe 1/4" on my summer tires (around 3/8" taller than stock), but I don't clear when I'm on my stock-height snow tires. I didn't have any issues clearing them at stock height on stock-size tires, though.