cww516

You know, I was actually going to use the line "when all you have is a hammer, every problem starts to look like a nail" in that post, but it seemed like overkill.

If it's a 9/16" / 5/8" (or 14mm / 16mm) combo, I'd be willing to count it as both, but only if it comes with a tutorial on how to hook an open-end wrench through it for extra leverage.

When I changed the clutch on my Baja, I just went over the flywheel with a 2" Scotchbrite disc on a patch gun, rather than taking it to a machine shop to be ground. It looked pretty good to begin with, and it still seems perfectly happy 25k miles later, so I'd call it a win. I'd call that plan A, and if you're not happy with how it comes out, you're only out 5 or 10 minutes of your time and a buck or two for the Scotchbrite pad.

I don't remember who it was, but I seem to remember someone on here mentioning something about a service that will repair or replace just the sensor, rather than having to buy a full replacement upholstered seat cushion. Might have been long enough ago that you'd have to include the 5th-gen archive in your search, but it's out there somewhere...

In theory, yes, but I've ended up with a full unopened quart (or liter) bottle after changing on both vehicles. Somehow, 0.8 quarts in the rear diff and 3.9 quarts in the transmission added up to exactly 4.0 quarts, with the transmission sitting right on the "full" mark on the dipstick. There must either be some spot in the transmission that holds a lot of oil when you're on flat ground, or someone forgot to subtract the volume of a gear when they were calculating fill volume from the 3D model of the housing.

Depends on the problem- what code(s) are you seeing? If it's something related to the catalytic converter, the rear sensor would more than likely be the one to change out.

I currently live that far from work, and it's not all that great. I don't even have heat by the time I pull into the parking lot! Pretty much everything else about it is fantastic, though. It's really nice to be able to go home for lunch- get to be out of the office for a while, without having to spend $10 on lunch somewhere.

cars101 suggests that the GT and the 6MT 2.5i are both 4.111. Nothing about a 3.70 that I've seen yet, but it looks like the CVT 2.5i Outback (and the STI, not that I'm enabling) is 3.900.

Always a good feeling when it's just a loose connector! Anything beyond that can be a pain to track down.

And the driveshaft, too- there was some speculation as to whether or not there was an OEM part that could be the correct length.

The lack of pre-loaded rear strut options is probably due at least in part to the fact that you don't have to compress the springs in order to install them. You basically just lift the car up, undo the nut on the top of the shaft (behind the carpet inside the trunk), then disconnect the end link, the lower shock mount, and outer LCA bolt (at the knuckle) and catch the parts before they hit you in the face. Be forewarned, though, that lower shock mount bolt will probably just laugh at you if you hit it with anything less than a decent impact wrench. OEM '13-'14 springs and shocks are a pretty solid upgrade over the '10-'12 parts, and the KYB parts should be pretty similar given that the OEM parts are actually made by KYB.

As far as the location of the MAP sensor, that's what's connected to that plug directly below the right-hand side of the rectangle in Aphex28's picture above. I tee'd in between the MAP sensor and the filter, which is the round foamy thing straight to the left of that green plug on the alternator. Pretty sure I posted a picture of my setup somewhere, I'll link to that if I can find it. edit: here you go: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5445107&postcount=22541 The plug with the orange cable seals is for the MAP sensor, the round black thing to the left of it (and the triangular 3-pin connector) is the pressure transducer for my boost gauge.

From what I'm seeing in the manual, those components are powered off of a handful of different fuses, but they all share a ground connection, and they all go through the same connector. My best guess would be that the connection between the roof harness and the dash harness is loose- looks like that's a white 16-pin connector either inside the passenger's side A-pillar, or behind the little pop-out panel at the end of the dash right below the pillar. If that's not it, there could be a wiring issue in there somewhere. Any idea if the previous owner hard-wired in a dash cam or a radar detector or anything like that? edit: too slow...

Ah, gotcha- yeah, 12.2 will definitely start, no problem at all. I suffered with (read: was too lazy to replace) my old battery until it got down to about 11.6V resting, and although it was a little reluctant to do so, it still cranked and fired. If you get down closer to 11V, you'll just lose all electrical power when you turn the key.

Well, for an automotive battery, 11.2V resting is pretty much stone dead, so that's likely the cause and not a bad relay. You probably got it to crank by jumping the starter because you didn't need the electronics upstream of the starter to work. I'd say put it on a charger for a few hours and give it another shot, and if you still have issues getting it to crank when you have good voltage (ideally 12.6V or higher), then start looking for more complicated things.

I mean, if you adjust toe and camber far enough, it'll affect caster, so I guess technically he could have been right? That said, the place a friend of mine went for tires and an alignment said that his car ('07 Focus) doesn't have rear toe adjustment. Meanwhile, I can see the adjusters without having to even put a knee on the ground. Probably why he burned through those rear tires in roughly 6 months... As far as camber on our cars, just show 'em the markings on the bolt and on the shock housing.

Correct on both- the trans and front diff operate out of the same supply of fluid, so all you need there is the gasket dgoodhue mentioned, a Torx T50 (pretty sure) bit for the drain plg, and a piece of 5/16" or 3/8" vinyl tubing to stuff in the dipstick tube. Rear diff is just a 1/2" square for both fill and drain, just and you just need to slather a little RTV on the plugs (they're NPT or BSPT or some other tapered thread) before you reinstall them, no gaskets needed there. The fuel filter is attached to the pump assembly, and that's going to be accessible under the seat. If it's not causing you problems, I might just leave it, but if you're going to pull it, step 1 is the same as on a body-on-frame vehicle- get the tank as close to empty as you can before you start.

NVAKeith is correct about the blinking light, too- I don't have sensors in my summer set, and the light blinks for a little while before staying on solid. I've had a tire get low enough to trip the sensor (-20F will do that to you), and from what I recall, that's just a solid light, no flashing.

OEMs also have the luxury of being able to design their lighting systems (and everything around them) from the ground up, which gives them the ability to package larger passive cooling solutions. Active cooling adds complexity, which adds cost, and if you have all the space in the world, you may as well go with the cheaper option. Also, from the looks of it, the heat sinks on those particular retrofit LEDs may actually have more surface area than the passive heat sink on that fog light. Given that convective heat transfer is proportional to surface area, there's a decent chance that the heat sink on the solution Humble posted could perform better in a passive cooling application than the one on that fog light, and a fan will only improve that. That'd depend on how thick the fins are, and whether that fin thickness bottlenecks conductive heat transfer into the fins at all (which would reduce efficiency), but that sounds a lot more like math than I feel like thinking about on a Sunday afternoon. Point being, there's a pretty good chance that not all retrofit LEDs suck equally as far as cooling is concerned.

Tommy, I moved your post into its own thread at covertrussian's request, his thought (which I agree with) is that you'll get more views that way and have a better chance at finding a solution. Good luck! New thread location: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spring-identification-question-280869.html

If it's an obnoxious buzzing or rattling sound, it could be a loose heat shield. If you have a way of getting under the car safely, that'd be pretty easy to check, just start tapping on heat shields until you find one that rattles.

If it's in there backward, it'll still vent. The boost side of the valve will be more or less pressure-balanced, you won't have too much in the way of vacuum pulling on the turbo inlet side, and you'll have manifold vacuum pulling on the signal side of the diaphragm.

Moved your thread over to the 4th-gen subforum, you'll likely get responses that are more relevant to your particular model year in here. Welcome to the forum!

I put a tee fitting between the MAP sensor and the inline filter thing (see pic here, BYO racecar blue vacuum line), although there's probably a couple of good options on the rear of the manifold as well. I went with that location because a) you don't have to pull the intercooler to get at it, and b) it doesn't share a pressure signal with anything other than another sensor. The sensor for my SPT gauge died because it was teed into the PCV line and placed lower than that line, so it filled up with water, which is probably why I went downstream of the filter like I did. As far as a grommet, I don't think I got a picture of it when I did it, but there's a good-sized passthrough on the driver's side firewall that pokes through inside the pedal box that works well. It was a snug fit, but I was able to tuck a small connector through there next to the existing wiring. From there, I went up the left-hand side of the dash toward the fuse panel (add-a-fuse taps in F/B 10 (currently 7.5A) for battery power, F/B 27 (currently empty) for ignition), and wrapped around the top of the dash to the "factory" install location above the gauge cluster. Edit: thought I posted this somewhere, but I guess I didn't. The colors will likely be different for your install, but the functionality will be the same. I 3D printed a little connector to join the engine bay side and the cabin side just because I could, but you could just as easily use butt splice connectors for that.

Here's what I found for the STI (2011, in this case). Definitely more lift on the exhaust, and the lobe phasing looks to be different judging by the AVCS min/max values. Not sure if the STI's intake AVCS only has a 30 degree range (compared to the Legacy's 40), or if there's some huge difference in the shape of the lobes- the WRX specs show a 40 degree range on the intake timing, and the max and min values are all the same as on the Legacy. All 3 platforms have the same part numbers for the intake cam pulleys, though, so unless the STI doesn't use the full sweep of that AVCS mechanism, there's a chance the STI intake cam actually has 10 degrees more duration.