cww516

The point he's making, which you seem to either be missing or actively ignoring, is that neither compassion nor empathy is a sign of weakness, particularly when living in a society. For the record, I'm on team "why the **** are you wearing a mask when you're in your car by yourself", generally don't wear a mask outdoors, and would likely judge the hell out of someone who I thought was just virtue-signaling, but I don't view a polite request to wear a mask when near other people as an affront to my masculinity.

Citing corner cases where a thing may not work does not invalidate the cases where it does work. For example, if safety glasses don't stop sledgehammers, why bother wearing them? If a seatbelt won't keep you alive if you get hit by a train, why bother wearing it? For what it's worth, I think I've seen studies suggesting that 6' isn't enough, and I agree that the best solution is to just not interact with people, so I'm not just here to talk shit. Masks may not be perfect, but they work well enough that if you have to be around people, they're worth the minor inconvenience.

If you have a set of ramps, you can just leave the hardware loose enough to allow things to pivot and back on to the ramps before you do your final tightening. As to the risk involved, I'm too chicken to break stuck wheels free from the hubs by installing the lug nuts one turn shy of finger-tight and driving around the block, and I'd have no qualms about doing this.

Not the best timing now that things are back together, but you can just remove those rubber gaskets entirely with no ill effects, things will seal up just fine. I forget if re-flashing a tune erases the learned parameters from the ECU, so it might be worth disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for a minute or two to reset those learned values. Assuming the throttle body coupler is the only mechanical issue (which it may or may not be), the ECU could still be trying to compensate for something that's no longer a problem.

Sounds like you might want to look at getting a new battery as well, or at least get yours tested. It's not overly uncommon for dead batteries to find a little extra juice after sitting for a while like you described, but being run that low (especially repeatedly) is really bad for them. That definitely sounds like the alternator is the root cause, though.

Just to echo what's already been said, thanks for all the advice and information you've shared over the years- I know it's helped me out a lot along the way, and I know it's been helpful to many others as well. You're leaving some big shoes to fill, both on knowledge, and on being the parts shelf scapegoat. Good luck with your other cars!

Good call, I didn't connect those dots.

You guys too, huh... I think both times I've replaced the bulbs has been in December or January, and both times were before I had a garage to work in. Not much fun to be had there.

Yeah, H11 sounds right. I remember those being pretty easy to get to, I think there's 1 or 2 push-pins holding a flap on to the bottom of the plastic under-tray just in front of the wheel, so those should be accessible without much more than a flathead screwdriver. Then again, that's all you need to peel the fender liner back to get to the low beams...

Did you turn the key on and let it sit for a bit before you cranked it over? I believe the throttle plate and TPS go through a learn cycle the first time you key on after a complete power loss, so it just may not have had enough time to calibrate before you started the car, and the throttle plate wasn't opening far enough to maintain idle.

This is what I used a few years ago, although I only paid about $20 for them. Do a search for W5W bulbs as well- they're the same size as the 194 and 168, so you should come up with a few more options that way. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Xtreme-Vision-X-tremeUltinon-4000K/dp/B00OYT11RE/ The owner's manual bulb chart says that same bulb is used for the side marker lights, door step lights (on the bottom of the door, not the puddle lights in the rockers), trunk interior light, and license plate lights.

Don't quote me on this, but I think I recall someone saying that you can fit a full-size spare in there without the tray. You'd have to come up with another home for the jack (which opens up the possibility of getting something other than a scissor jack), but that could be an option.

Could be that, or possibly a vacuum leak that goes away as things warm up and expand. I know for a while, there was an issue with intake manifold gaskets doing exactly that- could be worth getting in there with a can of ether on a cold start and seeing if you can find a leak somewhere.

Yup, it's newfangled witchcraft and/or sorcery. A lot of newer A/C compressors (ours included) are variable-displacement units with no clutch, as compared to the clutched fixed-displacement units of yore. They're always spinning, but when they're not needed, they just completely de-stroke so that they don't move any refrigerant.

I remember having a hard time getting those lower pivot nuts off, but that was because my electric impact wrench wasn't up to the task. More wrench and they came right off. Can you still spin the nut back down tight? That'd give you a better look at whether the threads on the bolt are borked, or if there's just gunk or corrosion in there holding you back.

I've had a thread bookmarked for years with the intent of eventually getting around to it, considering mine makes angry noises (due to the Bendix gear not disengaging from the flywheel) every once in a while when it's cold out. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-starter-repair-remove-disassemble-grease-reinstall-w-pics-218329.html

I've noticed the same thing on the OTS stage 1 91 map, usually anything above the low-mid 80s will cause it to drop for me at anything over 2-3 pounds of boost. Given my complete lack of tuning experience, I would ass-u-me that the temperature compensation tables in the map could be tweaked to help with that (and with Cobb being in Texas, they probably had an opportunity to refine the high-temp end a little), but as long as it comes back up, DAM dropping isn't really a bad thing. The e-tune suggestion isn't a bad one, either- Cobb didn't make a downpipe for the 5th-gen GT, so they didn't really have a set configuration to test with when building that map like they did with the stage 1 maps.

I'd agree with that, although I'd probably take a look at the plugs first- should be able to tell if you're rich or lean on that bank, or if you're right in line with the other bank. Assuming all three codes popped up at the same time, I'd definitely look at things that are common to those three cylinders, rather than guessing that 3 independent parts all magically failed simultaneously.

I don't think that they are, or at least, I know mine ('11 Limited) aren't.

That sounds about right for mine as well, from what I remember. I'm not going to claim I didn't limp it along at sub-12V resting voltage for a little while out of sheer laziness, though. Gave me the opportunity to replace it on a cold, windy night in December...

How old is your battery? Electronics do all kinds of weird stuff when they don't get the voltage they're expecting, and a dying battery would explain the hard starts as well.

Fixed the glitch, or at least started on it. Also, to add something of value, I'd echo the suggestion to see if it's a burnt valve.

Well worth it, though, there's a definite change in road feel through the steering wheel. I thought I had the right size hex bits, too, turns out I didn't. Tried to make one, since I had a 5mm nut driver bit, but the donor allen key I cut up was too soft and rounded off.

Wasn't exactly the solution I had envisioned, but that'll definitely work! Not like I have room to talk, I have a 3D-printed connector with paperclips for terminals in my boost gauge harness. I ended up with a JST connector kit, but until the gauge stops working (and it's been going strong for 4-5 years now), I don't think I care enough about replacing it to tear the dash apart to get at it.

I'll say the same thing I say every other time someone says they're looking to install the steering damper lockdown- slather some grease on the prongs first, it'll make your life way easier.