cww516

Without knowing the actual answer to your question, you're going to want the end links to be as close to perpendicular to both the sway bar ends and the control arms as you can get them with the car on the ground, so pick whichever set of holes is closest to that. You probably also want the ends of the sway bar to be pointing more-or-less horizontal, and the lower sets of holes would let you do that if you go substantially lower. None of those positions should affect the ride at all (unless you preload it for circle track or something), those extra holes should just be for getting things lined up nicely. Barring that, use the holes the last guy used and figure that since the arms aren't all beat up, nothing fell off or broke with the end links in that position.

Yup, that's what it's there for, more or less, and that's why you have hot and cold lines on the side of the reservoir. When the level increases, does it always decrease back to the same level when the car cools off (overnight, or long enough to get down to ambient temperature)? If it's always at the same level hot and always at the same level cold, I'd call that normal.

Did you change the forum display theme you're using? I think only some of them show the thanks button, although I'm still hanging out on the default (I think?) 3.1 theme, so I couldn't tell you which ones do and which don't.

Good point, I missed the part where OP said it doesn't happen while stopped.

How old is the serpentine belt and/or the tensioner? Wondering if the belt could be slipping on the power steering pump pulley at low speeds, which could give that kind of result.

Got 'em on the list, as well as stewdogg.

Before you get to the point of trying to sell it, get under there with some sort of degreaser and clean the oil off, then run around for a bit and see if you can figure out where the oil is coming from. Valve cover gaskets would be a likely culprit, as those do harden with age, and constantly being bathed in oil like they are on Subarus will increase the odds of oil actually leaking out of them. Those gaskets are easy enough to change with a 10mm (I'm assuming) socket and a ratchet wrench, and they're cheap enough that it's worth a shot. For reference, my Baja weeps oil out of at least the passenger side head gasket, and has since I bought it- next oil change will be at 200k miles, and I don't have excessive oil consumption, or really any other issues with the engine. I do notice the smell sometimes, since the outside air pickup is on the passenger side at the top under that plastic cowl at the bottom of the windshield, but on an '06 with this many miles, that's what the recirculate button is for. Point being, as long as it's just a little oil weeping externally, and not mixing with the coolant, or oil/coolant getting into the cylinders, that little spot on the driveway is probably the worst of it.

Same here, actually. I was pulling on the vacuum line on the top of the BOV (and it was on there good), and it caught me off guard when it finally let go. Pretty sure I caught the edge of the frame and not the fan itself, but having that extra 1.5-2" inches of clearance would have been nice...

Removing the fan(s) would definitely be a good call- like MarcoLGT said, it's 2 10mm nuts up top, an electrical connector, then tip/lift/wiggle/jiggle until it comes out. Buys you another 1.5-2" of clearance (and could save you from potato-peeling a chunk of skin off the back of your hand, ask me how I know that one...), although you might want to put a sheet of cardboard or something in there to protect the radiator from accidental bumps.

I can see the argument for waiting until you can get an alignment, though, having experienced the sketchy ride caused by all the toe-out you get from lowering the front. You could put the rear shocks in and keep the stock springs back there for the time being, but I'll be honest, if it was me, I'd probably wait and do it all at once. For reference, the skid plate I bought a few years ago is still sitting on the shelf waiting to go on...

I don't think "slick" is a word I want would use to describe the ribbed side of a serpentine belt- sounds like either you're in desperate need of a new belt that isn't worn out, or maybe something is seized. Knowing that the back of the belt looks good (ie. the words aren't smeared) is good intel, that rules out any components or idlers that ride on that face. I'd take a look at the A/C compressor (top-front of the engine, on the right-hand side), and make sure the pulley is turning when the engine is running. The alternator, water pump, and power steering pump would also run on that side of the belt, but you would probably have a warning light if the alternator want charging, a temperature light if the water pump wasn't turning, and you'd definitely notice if the power steering pump wasn't turning. It looks like there might also be an idler that rides on the grooved side, but I don't actually own a vehicle with the same FB25 engine as you have, so I'm just going off of what a quick web search shows me.

The A/C compressor does spin constantly like you're seeing, it's a variable-displacement unit rather than a traditional clutched fixed-displacement unit. It'll always spin, but it'll de-stroke when it's not needed.

You'll have to let me know if you guys plan something, that's maybe 15 minutes from my house.

Fixed your link- it works fine in the deals thread, but ended up broken here somehow. Pretty awesome deal!

If the rear bushings are extra clapped-out, I could see that manifesting itself as a wheel shake in one direction.

I edited the post using my super-seekrit mod powers, and it looks like those images are uploaded at 200x150 resolution, so the thumbnails are actually full size. I've never seen it happen where you can't open an attached image in that shadowbox view, but I guess it can happen.

Try clearing your browser's cache. You're able to post in here, so the site isn't blocking you from posting, and it looks like you're above the 15 post minimum for the Marketplace as well. I don't think there are any restrictions on viewing images or attachments if you're not a member or aren't logged in, so you shouldn't be having any issues with that at all. Try clearing your cache, and let us know if that works. Sorry about stealing BDII and LegGTLT's thunder...

Yup, that's pretty standard. Gotta use all the salt you were allotted, otherwise they'll assume you don't need that much and you'll run low the next year.

I know that feeling. I usually shift into 4th, pin it wide open (again), and quickly realize that I probably shouldn't be wide open in 4th after getting north of 5000 RPM in 3rd.

As someone who grew up 20 minutes west of where he lives- don't worry, they use plenty of salt in Illinois, too. Moving north didn't help me on that front, either.

I think RCE blacks are 20mm/0.8" advertised drop, but they're also on the stiff side. I thought Eibachs are ~1.00" drop, and H&R are closer to 1.25"? Either way, you could pair any of those spring options with tophat spacers to negate some or all of the drop. Koni front shock inserts and rear drop-ins would be a good call, if you're interested in cutting your stock front shocks to fit.

Probably can't refer to you as a "sparky" then, huh?

The width will make it, but length-wise, I've found that a 6' folding table is almost a perfect fit. I'm tall, but I don't think the seat has 16" of travel, let alone 16" of travel forward from my seating position. If you're comfortable having that piece of wood hanging out the back a little and tying down the trunk lid, though, you should be able to make it work. Almost forgot- cars101.com is a great reference for specs and such on pretty much anything Subaru, and there's a section on pretty much every model and year's page with dimensional info. Here's the 2010 Legacy page, dimensions are about 1/3 of the way down: https://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2010.html

Modern fuel pump systems use a vapor recovery system to catch the majority of the displaced air coming out of the fill port, but it's not really feasible to collect 100% of the displaced air from the vehicle's fuel tank and transfer it back into the bulk tank. In any case, this thread seems to have devolved a little, probably about time to lock it up.

You know, I was actually going to use the line "when all you have is a hammer, every problem starts to look like a nail" in that post, but it seemed like overkill.