cww516

I've got a set of those on my Baja that were on there when I bought it. They're not particularly loud (far as I've noticed), although I always have the radio on, so my perception may be skewed. Could be the lack of weight over the back axle, or skewed perception again due to having snow tires on the Legacy, but they're pretty bad in the snow in my experience. Shouldn't be a problem if you have a dedicated winter set. They do seem to wear pretty well, though- I don't remember what the DOT date code is, but I've put on about 16k miles (probably 3/4 highway) in the year and a half or so I've owned it, and I can't really see a huge difference in tread depth. I haven't done any rotations, and the back left likes to leak down to about 20 psi over a couple weeks' time, so it's not like I've been particularly kind to them.

Looks like the majority of your posts were made today, give it until tomorrow or so to let the system update. Let us know if that doesn't work, though.

They did! I think I might have paid $80 for 5L of Motul Gear 300, which was enough for the front diff, transmission, t-case, and axle stubs, with enough left over for the center diff bearings and the synchros, too! I even had enough for the rear diff, and I have probably half a bottle left. Maybe I can use it to top off the blinker fluid reservoir...

I saw Deadpool, but now I can't unsee Strong Bad...

That sounds more like an intermittent electrical connection than a popped capacitor, those don't typically do anything other than stink once you let the smoke out. I guess it's possible, depending on what that capacitor is doing (smoothing out power vs. smoothing out a signal), but I don't know that it would be the first place I'd look. It's possible that there are some parking brake actuators available, but that SoA is replacing them on a fix-as-fails basis until they get enough on-hand inventory to cover the full recall population. If it bothers you enough, you could probably call up your dealer or SoA and say that you're having issues and saw the recall notice, see if they offer to sneak you in early.

Well, he could take a lap around the block with the sway bar disconnected, that could rule out the end links. Can't really do that with the ball joints, though.

I had a similar issue with the Baja, turned out to be a stuck slide pin causing the pad to drag. It pulsed pretty bad, probably because there was a spot on the face of the rotor that looked about like a charcoal briquette. Cleaned up the pin with some scotchbrite, replaced rotors on both sides, re-bedded the same pads, and away I went. Pretty simple job if you have a drill to put the pin in, makes cleaning it up a lot easier.

Could it just be a loose connection or something like that? I don't claim to be any sort of an electronics expert, but I do know that my sub makes noise if I touch the end of the cable when it's not plugged into the receiver. Could be a similar thing internally, too, I suppose. If it was me, I'd take it apart and see where the smoke got out, since it's already not working. Not to say that's necessarily always the smartest choice, but that's probably what I'd do.

Pretty sure the only thing back there that'd be different enough to cause issues would be the rear diff, and that's on the other side of the subframe member. According to parts.subaru.com, the rear subframe is the same for all engines and trim levels of Legacy and Outback '10-'12, and there's a new part number (which is likely very nearly identical, just looks to be a revision) that's used on all Legacies and Outbacks '13-'19 (not a typo). I wouldn't have any concern over it not fitting, honestly.

Shipping comes to a shade over $15 for me, so at that price, it's probably worth cross-shopping with your local dealership.

That was my impression with that mount, too. Maybe a little more gear whine, just because it's getting transmitted through the mount to the body, but not really any noticeable increase in NVH.

As I got to the search page, the name Ortiz drifted into my head, and whaddya know, first search result is your post!

There's always the option of a cluster surround with gauge pods. I'm having a heck of a time remembering who makes those- thought I had it bookmarked, but I guess not.

If you come up my way, it'd be easier to take I-90 back west, and you can get Stu and Brendan on your trip home. Might have to start charting this out now to find the best route, maybe add in some national parks while you're at it.

Subaru had an extended warranty on the CVT starting last July or so, which covered all CVT vehicles until they were 10 years old or had 100,000 miles on them. It covered all vehicles regardless of mileage up until July 31, 2018, so that would have been your window. Since it sounds like this is something you're just now hearing about, you may be able to try to make a case for Subaru to cover part or all of it if you've been experiencing the issue since before the cutoff. There was a letter that went out (a couple people attached a PDF scan to their posts a few pages back), but depending on when and where you bought the vehicle, you may not have gotten it. Couldn't hurt to ask, at least- worst they can say is no.

Well, you're past the 7/31/18 deadline, and well over the 100,000 mile limit, so unfortunately, you may end up footing the bill for this one yourself. Your options are likely to replace the torque converter (assuming that's the problem, you'd want to do some diagnosis first) or drop in a lower-mileage used transmission- your choice, probably worth looking into both to see how much each route would cost you.

...and here I was, thinking you were trading engines with Brendan pre-sale. Congrats on the purchase! Bought a garage (with house attached, conveniently) myself not quite 10 months ago, and based on that, I can say you'll have no shortage of projects. Thankfully, most of mine have been things I've wanted to do- I've only *had* to replace the garbage disposal and the refrigerator thermostat so far, everything else has been optional. Unless you count wall-mounting a TV downstairs, hanging a 60A subpanel in the garage, and now insulating said garage as mandatory items, in which case I'm doing exactly as much as I have to.

Far as I can tell, just the color of the paint. I think the bushings they come with may be different, so that'd be worth looking at, but I think the stampings themselves may be identical.

Also be sure to cut a pair of crossed slots in the threaded end (think GTEASER has a guide somewhere) in order to let all the oil out- the threaded end sticks up a little higher than the bottom of the inside of the oil pan, so it'll trap the last bit of oil and any chunks or glitter or whatever else may want to come out with it.

I think he posted the weight once- I can't find it, but they weren't light by any stretch.

There's always the very real possibility that I'm full of crap, too. I know I have the right sizing for a Wix 57712, though, that much I have nailed down.

I don't remember offhand what size I made my little gripper thingy, but it's sized for a Wix filter. I can post that measurement up later this afternoon, though. Pretty sure the Wix filter is the same size as the OEM blue filter- been a while since I put one of those on, but that's what was on the Baja when I bought it, and I remember the grippy fitting over it. I also remember having to hammer a screwdriver into the side of it to get it loose...

That's pretty slick! I drew up and printed out a ring with finger nubs on it that works pretty well, but I may have to make one of those.

What material are you printing with that needs to be (or can be) heat treated? I haven't printed much of anything recently, so it's been years since I bought filament.

You tell Swannee yet?