cww516

I wouldn't be too surprised if it turned out that the battery is the issue. Electronics do strange things when their supply voltage dips, could be that cranking the engine drags the voltage down low enough to reset whatever it is that holds that window calibration. Also, it sucks a lot less to change your battery in the summer than in the dead of winter, at night, when it's 20 degrees and windy. Ask me how I know...

Didn't make a whole lot of sense to me that it'd be there, but that's where it was. Took me a while to find it, too- about 7-8 clicks past the point of deciding that I was committed, and that I was going to find it if it took me all night. I was thinking maybe it could be there because you could pull that panel to get at the flexplate/TC bolts on an auto, but that image shows it as MT-only, so that's out the window. Maybe the equivalent plate on the 5EAT/CVT is in the flexplate section, and putting this one with the flywheel just seemed like the thing to do at the time?

Found it! No idea where it is where it is in Subaru's parts breakdown, though. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2011_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6024576/FLYWHEEL/B14-011-01.html

From what I figured out finding a place to wire my own boost gauge, that empty location has ignition power, and it stays hot while cranking. Must be that it does something in a different market?

Moved to the 4th-gen forum- you'll probably get more traffic and more advice in here. whitetiger is pretty much spot-on, though. Welcome to the forum!

If it's not even clicking, it could be the solenoid on the starter that's going bad on you. I couldn't tell you if that's something that's available separately, though, or if it'd just be easier to replace the starter wholesale. It also looks like there's an inhibitor switch somewhere on or around the shift lever that only allows the key switch to power the starter solenoid if you're in park or neutral. If it ever doesn't crank again, you could try jiggling the shifter or going from park to drive and back just to see if that could be the issue. Seems a little more likely to me that this would be the issue rather than the starter solenoid, and it should be easy to test if you know where the switch is. If you're in park and turn the key, and you see 12V on one side and not on the other, that would point to a bad switch, otherwise your issue is downstream.

Me too! Pardon the washed-out east-facing morning shot and the TPMS light. The light's on because the TPMS sensors are on my winter wheels, which are on the rack in the garage.

Oh, yeah, that reminds me- did you check to see if it's the glasses holder door? If it squeaks, it's really good at projecting that sound to make it seem like it's coming from somewhere else.

Have you checked to see if it's the driver's side seatbelt buckle rubbing? I know that's been the culprit for a couple of people.

Shouldn't, but I think there were one or two people who saw overboost with an Invidia catted downpipe in cold weather. Much less likely to have an issue with the catted version than with the catless, though.

Yeah, before reading comprehension kicked in and I saw that you replaced all of the coils, I was going to say that you may not want to be in there again, but I get the feeling you will be. Surface rust on the side of the coil is generally okay, flaking apart like that... not so much.

If the clutch fork broke, the angry noises you heard trying to start the car in neutral could have just been the fork dragging against the back of the pressure plate. There's a good chance you'd be able to see what's going on in there if you pull the rubber boot off the transmission where the fork comes through to the slave cylinder. If that's it, you might not even have to drop the trans to fix the issue, just slide it back far enough to get at the fork.

.50" = 12.7mm, and the extra .3mm/.012" is probably within manufacturing tolerance for the plug, and maybe for the tool as well. Rear diff on the GT is a 1/2" square but I know there are different plugs used on some of the different diffs used on different trim levels. I want to say the 3.6R was the oddball that uses a Torx plug, but it's easy enough to see that without having to get under the car.

That click-lock flooring isn't too bad to install, aside from the fact that you're kneeling and bent over all day doing it. Pretty much all you need tool-wise is a utility knife (score and snap to length) and a rubber mallet, maybe pliers and/or a jigsaw if you have to cut out any really funky shapes. I helped a friend install that stuff on the entire first floor of his house (probably pushing 1000 sq. ft.), and including multiple rooms with closets and such, it took 3 people about a day and a half. I think there was as much time spent on actually laying the flooring as there was on chiseling out the tile in the foyer.

Mine are still firmly installed on the shelf in the garage but from what I know, it'll likely require you to drop the transmission to get at a couple of bolts. You could probably peel back the carpet and cut clearance holes, then glue patches on with seam sealer, but that'd be a preference thing. I want to say there are install instructions out there for Moore's plates on a WRX, should be darn near identical to that.

Well, if you're interested in dropping in a built engine and an STI transmission at any point, that wouldn't be such a bad place to start.

How the heck have I not seen that car around? I mean, with 56k miles on it, I'm guessing it's not a daily driver. I used to live in Oshkosh, though, you'd think I would have seen it at one point. Did a little bit of Google Maps creepin' and figured out where they live based on the pictures, and they're a little ways away from anywhere I would have been. I live maybe 20-25 minutes away, so I'd be willing to take a look if anyone was interested. I see that they label their wheels like I do- makes it easy to rotate and swap at the same time.

I believe the nuts are 26 ft-lb- I used to have a post from brandon.mol bookmarked that had a marked-up screenshot of the FSM (since that value is incorrect in the manual), but I guess I deleted it.

I would think that the stock STI springs should be fine, unless you're planning on cranking the rev limiter way up. Our stock springs on stock cams are (presumably) good to 7k RPM, since the OTS Accessport tunes raise it that far, so I'd imagine a stock STI spring and cam combo would be roughly the same.

Piston slap is usually temperature dependent, or at least should be when it's first developing. My Baja clatters like a cold Caterpillar when I start it after it sits outside, but the slap is all but gone when everything gets up to temp. Trying to think of what else it could be- maybe the rubber core of the crank pulley is falling apart, and the outer chunk rattles at certain speeds?

Well, if you're in there replacing the fork, it'd be silly not to do the clutch while you have things torn apart, and if you buy into that logic, you'll be right no matter what gives up first!

The 3.6R bar doesn't, but the OEM '13-'14 2.5i bar is 26mm, and that one does fit.

I just took a look, and nothing particularly obvious jumped out at me. Maybe if you unbolt the pedal box from the firewall, you might be able to get a wrench in from behind or something? Either that, or undo the line on the side, remove the hardware, and pull down a little? I did see an oval-ish cutout in the inboard side of the pedal box frame, could be that that's a passthrough for a flare wrench- with where the car is in the garage, I couldn't get the door open far enough to really wedge myself into the footwell, so I couldn't tell for sure. Also, just got around to replacing my sun sensor. I pulled both the old and new sensors apart as far as they'd go without something breaking, and to the naked eye, they appear to be identical. That said, the chip in there is a 4.5mm square of silicon with a 1.75mm square sensing area, and I can see that there's some circuitry etched into the silicon, but I don't have a microscope or anything to be able to see if it's the same on both.

Based on what I'm seeing on parts.subaru.com, it looks like it was used across the board on the 5th-gen Legacy and 4th-gen Outback regardless of trim. Like I said, whenever I get around to replacing mine, I can take a peek and see if there are any visible differences. I'm not overly interested in talking the new one apart, but if it looks easy to do without damaging anything, I might do it out of curiosity.

I'm guessing the fix got rolled into the sensor itself- they're still using that same sensor on current-production vehicles, so I'd guess the harness was a stop-gap until all of the old sensor inventory got flushed out or consumed.