cww516

Those are substantially less expensive than I would have thought, especially the fork.

Man, that's a sorry state of affairs, you swapping over to your summer setup before me. I was planning on doing that next weekend, although I may do it today if I run out of other stuff to do. The fact that we got more than twice as much snow last weekend than we've gotten all season has me a little leery of making the switch too soon. Also, for the tensioner replacement, you'll want an 8mm hex bit socket if you don't have one already. Works much better than a 6" extension with an 8mm socket on the end of a hex key, I'm sure. I just replaced the tensioner on my friend's '14 yesterday trying to figure out why the steering gets obnoxiously hard when the car is warm- the pulley had a fair amount of play in it, so I was hoping it was just belt slip, but with the amount of angry sounds coming from the pump, I'm thinking that may be it. No bubbles in the fluid, but it complains quite a bit under load, and I'm hearing some bearing noise from that region at idle.

Well, I may have won the race getting the TMIC installed, but if the pile of other parts in my garage is any indication, I don't think I'll win the WMI race.

Yeah, I read that as well. that GrimmSpeed TMIC has an 1/8" NPT port on the throttle body side specifically for WMI, and that article is making it more and more tempting to put it to good use...

Know what my favorite part of this is? No? Me neither.

Not very- I had to swap the rails on the passenger's seat, otherwise it would have sat about an inch and a half higher, but other than that and the seatbelt buckles, they pretty much bolted right in.

New owner, or the great beyond? Also, I have a set of bugeye seats in my Baja (needed the height adjustment for a little extra headroom), and I definitely wish I had that extra bolstering in the Legacy. One of these days, I'll do the DIY bolster-stuffing upgrade...

Good call, I can confirm that the weight of the AP is too much for PLA in hot sun.

8' step ladder will fit in a Baja with the tailgate up. Just sayin'.

They'd better hope they start doing infrastructure repair again, one medium-sized pothole would be enough to break the bead on those tires. Guess that explains why they're parked so far from the curb...

Yep- 1" drop, and roughly the same spring rate as the '13-'14 OEM springs. If you end up not liking the drop, you can do what FLlegacy did and install tophat spacers to lift you back up a little. I think he's back up to stock height, but you can get spacers for pretty much anything in between the 1" drop and stock height (or probably higher, if you wanted to go that route). I haven't been to Kettle Moraine in years, and I was too young to drive last time I was there. I do remember it being a nice area for camping and such, though, I may have to use that as an excuse to round up some friends and make a trip out of it.

I probably scrape less now than I did at stock height, believe it or not- the higher damping rate of the Konis along with the stiffer springs reduces how much the front end dips when I hit the edge of a driveway. That's not to say I'm not careful, I'm probably just more careful than I actually need to be. Practical advantages are that allegedly, your fuel economy goes up a little due to reducing drag, but if you're counting fractions of a mile per gallon in a car like this, you're doing it wrong. Smiles per gallon is a much more important metric. I'm in Neenah, just moved up from Oshkosh a couple months ago. Used to work in Appleton, and I got moved to a new building in Neenah shortly before I bought the house- turned a 20 mile drive into a 2 mile drive, can't beat that! Unfortunately, most of the roads near me are straight lines because of all the farm fields, even if I start heading out west, unless I'm not looking hard enough. A family friend has some land fairly close to where the Wisconsin dumps into the Mississippi, though, and there are some pretty fun twisties on the way there along the Wisconsin River.

You might be able to see one or more pending codes on a reader, couldn't hurt to try. Those are things that the ECU is keeping track of, but that haven't yet met the criteria to light up the Christmas tree- things like a flaky O2 sensor or coil pack.

It could just be a bad O2 sensor, too. If the car runs fine, chances are the cat is in good shape. That said, don't let me be the one to turn you away from a new downpipe. As far as Koni shocks vs. KYB, they're absolutely better. If you want to stay at stock ride height, go with the '13-'14 springs- a friend of mine has a '14 2.5i, and the ride quality is way better than my '11 was stock. I finally got around to installing my Konis and Eibach springs last spring/early summer, and I'm definitely happy with the result. I haven't had any issues getting around, but a) I have snow tires on it, b) I usually only drive it in fresh snow where the tires are an advantage and there aren't a bunch of ice clods on the road, and c) my Baja is on daily driver duty. That was something I was concerned about as well, but there are a good number of us in the snow belt (Subarus where it snows? Shocker!) who are lowered, and the only thing I've seen is that it'd be a good idea to install a skid plate. Yet another part I have sitting in my garage waiting to be installed... Also, it's pretty easy to host pictures directly to the forum, although sometimes they need to be resized before they'll upload. Welcome to the party, and as bbpeik (who, for reference, has a built engine and STI 6MT swap) mentioned, we're more than happy to help you spend your money!

You and your practical solutions...

Uh, maybe? Lemme try something... [noparse]https://www.carid.com/images/brembo/pdf/brembo-1e4.6002a.pdf[/noparse] edit: sweet, [noparse] tags work on here!

I've had this bookmarked forever, never actually done anything with it. This should be a profile template for a front caliper and rotor, so if you were to print it out full size and cut it out, you'd want to stick it right to the hub. Just cut the other side of the line and stick it to the rotor hat, that should cure what ails you. http://www.carid.com/images/brembo/pdf/brembo-1e4.6002a.pdf

At least FLlegacy, I want to say there's one or two more.

I'd love to see the look on the retailer's face when someone tries to buy a 25-shot nitrous kit... Although, it would be entertaining to see how long the FB25 would hold up to a 100-shot. I'd wager about 6 revs.

Might depend on the wrench- I couldn't get quite enough of the box end onto the nut to feel comfortable that I wouldn't break the wrench if I hit it with a rubber mallet, so I threaded a socket and a breaker bar in there. A wrench with a little higher offset would probably be about perfect.

Just getting out in front of this one, but let's try to keep it politically neutral in here. Nobody is going to agree with anybody else, and nobody wants to read the bickering. Also, I was hoping we'd get more snow this winter than we did, but now that it's getting up into the 40s and 50s during the day, I'm okay with winter being done. Out with sledding, in with disc golf.

As far as the dual injection, anyone have any idea how the fuel lines are laid out on the BRZ? I'd imagine there are either two separate FPRs or two separate returns, something like that. Subaru absolutely destroyed the functionality of their parts site, though, so I have no good way of looking that up. Edit: The FA20DIT is paired up with a Honeywell turbo as well- at least on the '15+ WRX, and I'd assume the same on the FXT.

Same here, we had one of those mid-morning. As my coworker said, must be that time of the month for Mother Nature...

Looks like the one on the driver's side runs to right around where the water pump should be, so I'm guessing coolant to and from a front-mounted radiator. Upon further inspection of one of the older pictures, the flexy-pipe makes another appearance by the radiator, so I'm sticking with that guess. Last big picture in post #614, you can see two sections loop down toward the bottom of the radiator. Out of curiosity, though, why flexy-pipe instead of heater hose? That based on availability, or durability?

Are you just accepting that as fact, or is that a goal now?