kzr750r1

I have not reinstalled the lower shield under the turbo. Top is on. May install again and put a blanket (in stock) under for added thermal protection. Had to turn back yesterday and park it for now. Ordered some new Ignition coils. Mainly since these have 255K on them. Have never replaced them since I bought the car from the stealership. It seems to go through some conniption fits just cruising down the freeway. Feels like it's missing at that point. I'm going to look at everything over the weekend and make sure there are no cracks in the IC or vac leaks. Double check the pinout of one IC connector I replaced. Make sure I wasnt' distracted and miss pinned it. Doubtful, but worth a double check. I feel this layer is good since the fuel trims look in range. Still worth a check. I just realized there is an OB section now... Mods if you want to move this go ahead.

Yeah. I don't have the lower one on. At one point I did have a screw missing on one point of it.

Still getting a dip to .875 from time to time, in town driving only so far. Going to head up to the foothills this week. Well see if this settles or needs more attention. Putting off the pump install for now but if this keeps up I may put it in service sooner.

In total 189ish shipped from Heuberger. Worth it. Looking forward to driving it some more tonight. Was a blast yesterday hearing turbo spool. DAM stayed at 1.00 do far.

New throttle pedal assembly installed. Reset Idle procedure complete. Input is much smoother. Should have done this a long time ago. I was suspecting there was an issue based on input of the off idle input has been erratic for a while. Although it never failed 100% figuring the potentiometers had worn out and began skipping the first few mm in pedal travel. Pump is here too. Waiting till December to put it in as a preventative measure. Trying to make one change at a time for now.

Snail using M45 dyno.

Looks great. Especially without the big USDM rear.

Never hurts to ask. There are still cars out there that have not had them removed. Also gives you a clue if the car was taken care of by someone who knows the platform or just a base consumer.

Thanks Max. Yeah I considered changing but didn't want to enter another variable. Were not going for peak HP here. Had to just walk the daughter thru another limp mode reset. Same code P2138. Hoping it shows up this week.

Well this was an eventful day. DAM dropped to .125 for the entire drive over to a checkup for the daughter unit. Right out of town blech.... Ran a little rough. Surging here and there. Didn't see any issues with fuel trims. Lots of fine knock activity. Reset the ECU to clear it's head as I may have some bad gas and need to avoid Costco all together for a while. On the way back P2138 put me in limp mode... Finally something to help isolate this weirdness. Frustrating. Reset again, code cleared and ran fine for a while... Dipped to .5 again. Back to 1 then dipped to .875 buy the time we parked at home. New pedal assembly 36010AG021 ordered. Also going to get another DW65C to drop in for good measure. Seems to be at low RPM high gear that all of this is happening.

Ok. Was assuming were talking VF40.

Enjoyed that build too. Daughter is driving my car more than I am now. Sure wish I had some of my dads old cars still. 67 BMW 1600 for example.

Should only be one.

Funny this came back up. Haven't circled back if I gave any input. After several thousand miles on the movtechs I'm going back to stock with STI and LGT bushings. My issue has been the bushings groan after the chassis heat soaks. Casting is probably fine but the bushings are short lived. I used OEM ball joint and could probably reuse them on the old arms but I'll buy a new set just to call it done for a few thousand more miles.

Another item that could be at fault is the ignition relay. Had a CRX that would not fire from time to time, morning would be fine, afternoon black car in the summer sun would just crank and no fire, left me stranded twice. Last time it just went to the honda tech as I was out of ideas. Ended up being the relay 100% These cars are getting old. Possible the relay is just getting tired.

Reconditioned is $800 now BTW. JDM hooked me up with a rebuild this year... Ebay... meh... Your throwing dice at that point. VF40 is fine for your needs at stage 1.

Most of the people who may have experimented or have experience with alternative turbos are no longer active here. Many who remain are just trying to keep their cars rolling going back to mostly stock configurations. May want to ask over at https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/

Some information to absorb. They even link this site for more information about the i88 adapter harness. https://avojdm.com/dual-zone-av-panel-set-h6217ag911/

LOL Yes but requires JDM replacement parts and some dash carving. Search for Dual DIN thread. I'm busy right now or I'd search for it myself.

But if the hubs have never been replaced its a good time to replace.

Looks good. Run it! Sorry I thought this was DOHC motor.

For what it's worth just replace it. I was about to keep running the exhaust cams gears on mine and eventually decided it's not worth the risk. These are cheaper than having it break later. I had already bought the intake gears so it was a no brainer. Mine were just a little chewed on the wrench points. But after 254K opted for new.

Looks like the roads around Grizzly peak/Moraga? But this turn is not familiar to me.

Not yet. I've been dealing with wiper fluid hoses disintegrating. Snapped two mount points on the rear hatch top getting to the rear window section that burst. Totally understand not wanting to take the plastic bits off if you don't need to.

Sounds like Hub noise to me. I had to replace both front CV lately as well. Tried to rebuild re grease and one was pooched. So I punted them to raxels. Good company. https://www.raxles.com/