JohnDeere714

Sketched this up on my own, the solid one year of high school shop class is finally starting to pay off. Still learning the ropes of Fusion360. As you can see I added holes for magnets. add holes to the back for zipties or let the cables fly?

Hey guys been a while since my last contribution to the community so I decided I might as well work on something that a lot of people probably have or haven't wished for. The Facebook group already got a peek. So if you're like me, you've probably gotten sick of dealing with that crap oem radio. Some of you 05/06 guys probably upgraded to the 07-09 radio for that sweet sweet aux port and some of you probably got sick of raiding junkyards for new $25 radios because the display keeps clonking out then decided to upgrade. Let's face it a lot of you went for the already expensive avo JDM climate controls and opted for a nice fancy Kenwood or Pioneer set up. Sure that's great and all but dang the factory spot kind of sucks for a fancy touch screen. So all this brings me here. By now we all came across those plug and play android radios that replace that upper dash cubby. There's a lot of benefits to it, like an easier to see location, apple carplay, gps, 4g and wifi. But the major downsize to a nice plug and play setup is that you have to leave the oem radio in place so you still have your climate controls, that's a lot of wasted real-estate that could've been used for something else and it's not ideally clean looking. Here's what I've been mocking up: So I've gotten inspiration from this design. It already uses half of the open space and can be utilized for a boost gauge and for you slightly more modified guys, an A/F gauge. There are some downfalls I've come across (no pics atm). 1. Fitment is TIGHT. A 52mm gauge needs to be forced in without trimming. Some won't even fit at all. 2. The walls on the top and bottom are thin which leads to weird finishes. 3. It's up to you to figure out how to fit it. No biggie as I got that covered. But when fitted there's still gaps that can be filled. So here we are now. I've been teaching myself how to model with Fusion 360 and I've mocked this up: As you can see it is very similar but it should fix the small issues I've had with the original design I found. (currently printing as I type) The face plate will be secured to the mount with magnets so you guys can easily access your gauges to make any modifications or add more stuff. Of course I'm still prototyping this design so changes can and will happen as I test fit things. To fill the bottom half of the double din slot in your avo climate controls I am planning on making a switch panel. This panel will consist of: 1. USB ports for your new android radio. 2. DCCD control slots for you 6 speed swapped guys 3. Any other things you guys wish to use To really help get this project moving I am needing a few things 1. Dimensions of the DCCD controls that I-wire provides. That would be the LED light strip and knobs. I do not know if you guys prefer the GD switches or not. 2. IDEAS to add or improve this. 3. A wiring solution that doesn't require tapping/splicing into the new radio harness. As always guys, I'll Try and update everyone when I get the project really moving.

You can get the torx bit from harbor freight. I believe the exedy oem smfw clutch kit I got came with new bolts. Now is also the time to get a new clutch fork and pivot too.

Exactly I’m happy with it now. I’m done dumping money in it now. Rather pay off student loans and get a down payment ready for a newish car.

My dumbass went with DNA. Before anyone gives me shit I got it for $150 and it was close by. Damn OEM midpipe was on the verge of falling off. It did drone a lot and had a bit of a tinny rasp to it at first but once it finally broken in it wasn't that bad. Sure it hangs a little lower than stock but it's the sound I like and when the shit mufflers finally blow out like everyone says they will i got my old nameless mufflers to put back on. Any one got sound clips of nameless 5 inch mufflers with a resonator delete?

Is there a good way to strip paint off the plastic housing? I goofed up and added way too much paint when blacking out the insides. Sanding is taking way too long than i would like. I was thinking brake fluid might do the trick. I don't want to melt the plastic.

You could always get sloppy and just run the cable out the fender and into the cabin via the doorway.

This had me baffled the other day. On the Facebook legacy groups someone mentioned they had a turbo replaced and had a hard time getting boost. Easy solution, check the boost pill from experience of new turbos don't usually come with them. User said pill was missing. After more talking someone else said there should be 2 pills one on the turbo side of the tee and the other on the wastegate side. Why would that be? I had to buy a set of turbo lines to replace the ones the new turbo came with since the shop never put the pill back in. This set of lines also had 2 different sized pills. Why would this be? The car makes about 13-15 pounds on one pill.

The cheapest and easiest solution is to get yourself a nice 07-09 Radio and have someone or yourself make an aux harness so you can use that sweet sweet aux button since the radio reception in these cars is utter dogshit. Only $25 from the pick n pull.

Dont forget the braces

If you can pm me an email address i can get you all the info i saved up when i made a prototype harness a long while back. I have a bunch of info saved. The hardest part would be is finding the actual 6 or 8 pin (I can't remember) plug that goes into the aux port. At minimum an i85 male is needed to get basic functionality but youd want the female too for SWC. If you made these from scratch you could possibly even offer them at a cheaper rate since AE64 ordered a made harness from subaru and then repinned the part that went into the radio.

Life would be a lot easier if subaru had a hole on top of the pinch or at least a better design

Just found out a loose pinch bolt was the source of my clunking. What you want to do is absolutely soak that pinchbolt in penetrating oil and add some moderate heat with a torch. I would recommend using a 3/8 impact on a low setting to help knock the rust loose, dont go balls to the wall. You can try just getting away with a ratchet. Now for the balljoint. If its factory, the threads are 9 times out of 10 going to be fucked no matter what. Threads on both of mine rounded out taking the castle nut. Do not take the castle nut off!!!! Jam a chisle into the knuckle to loosen up the pinch on the ball joint and get a nice big hammer and a metal pipe or some sort of long metal thing and go to town on that control arm. Stick a block of wood under the brake rotor to keepthe hub from moving. With enough pounsing on the control arm the ball joinh should pop out. When installing the new ball joint remember that anti seize is your best friend.

@k00laid83 You're products appear to be top tier quality on the market right now! Do you have any plans on expanding your store to include other legacy products? I'm still looking for someone who makes aux transplant harnesses so i can finally wire in the new center console thats been sitting in my basement for over a year now.

if you got small enough hands or are really goot at contorting yourself there is a little grommet behind the driver side fender. Not the main harness but just behind it. Thats what I tapped into for a boost reference line. Theres grommet kits you can use that allow wires to pass through if you dont want to cut a hole in it.