kzr750r1

Curious why you didn't go for a 6MT? Bummer the seal is leaking. Never fun going back a couple steps.

Yeah those coolant lines bypassed and the missing TMIC support bracket messing means someone has been fiddling with this car before you bought it. As you have found the blue T is a problem location. Look for more issues. If it's a stock intake tube those can degrade over time as well usually at the turbo connection. Not a huge fan of their use of hard plastic coupled with a glued on rubber hose. Yet I still use them. Check for more vacuum leaks. Depending on how may miles on the car and who has been under the hood it could be a long list. My recent change for the better was replacing the brake booster. But YMMV.

Best decision. Sounded like a train wreck.

I'm using a DW65c. Sorry to hear AEM are failing on you.

Haven't used a cam lock either. Using the TiC FU bolts and if this car lasts long enough to do this job again will probably buy the Company23 cam lock tool for the TiC bolts. Last time I did seem to skip a tooth so just pulled the tensioner and did it again... Slowly. Drivers side exhaust usually would stay in place. Intake not so much and was the final rotation into place before pulling the pin again.

JMP convinced me to not run a filter line on my last build. All of the other suggestions are solid. Recovering from killing a motor is never a good position to be in. Everyone has different motivation. 8K is not a low ball. Especially now as prices have gone up on labor and parts. But if you really love the car it will be worth every penny.

Changed out the Purge Valve Friday. Position of it was tight so I took out the Alternator. Of course broke the cover for the battery lead to the alternator. $20 and on it's way shortly along with the last of the ATF hoses I need to clean things up. Was going to order a stock evap line from the manifold to the fire wall but this one has been discontinued. May have some silicon hose of the appropriate size in the horde. Will start a conversation with my Tuner and get him up to speed where I'm at. Also received from piercing test leads for my volt meter. Now I just need to find my volt meter and see for sure what the voltage looks like at the plug for the fuel pump while driving.

Thanks everyone for the PM on this one. Infosecdad has me covered!

FPR arrived, so little. Will get the rest of the bits in house and swap soon as I have the time. Forgot I ordered a new purge valve as well. PN 42084FE010... Since I didn't replace it during the new motor install. While doing a pressure test it was making noise. Cheap enough, why not.

Figured I'd repot back again on progress. Findings is the old BB was causing issues. New BB and MC install car is not having conniption fits after applying the brakes. Couple of the symptoms pointing me here were the AFR and Main learning views going nuts at idle. Also over the years didn't notice a stiff pedal. Now it's a bit more dynamic. Stumble is less prevalent. Still going to try the older FPR setup and see if it helps. Have one on the way and most of the parts needed. Need to get back with the tuner and get some adjustments since I had him tuning a car with issues in the first place. See if I can pick his brain a bit.

Reset the ECU, performed the idle calibration, burning a quarter tank getting the monitors all back online. Learning A was 7.10 but B was at or hovering around 0 and C has been .40 to -.20 ish.. Before A was 7.10 but B and C were pulling -7.10. Still has a bit of a stumble that first time into reverse. But surely we need to look more at this tune before making any other changes. Adding the FP gauge will help ID if we still need a new FPR and or more mods to the FP power delivery. Still need to confirm voltage to the pump. Need some wire tap adapters for my volt meter.

So after break booster and MC the fuel trims are very different. Going to let it settle some more before talking to the tuner again about another session. Stumble is less apparent. Sucks I had this tuned with this issue in the first place. Will talk to him some more about FPR. On the books next? LCA swap. AEM pressure gauges. Order more hoses the Trans shop squidged their crappy clamps on. Up to 12 clamps and 6 hoses now. While peeling back layers for the booster install noticed they also botched the lines to the trans as well not just the filter cooler loop side.

It's lacking coverage and what was available when I purchased. There is no cover (wing) over the lower O2 sensor. Plus now after the killer B install the holes for oil change and filter access are useless. I normally took it our for OC anyway to inspect. There are other options. But for now it's what I have.

Have secured Friday off to thrash on the car. Weather is giving me a window. Brake booster and MC install on the table. Although I'm not looking forward to crawling under the dash. It will be done!

Well before I ordered a 26497AG000 figured I'd open up the Brake Booster to be sure I didn't need any more parts... Found the oring (26497AG000) and a bunch of disclaimers... Reinstallation of a leaking MC and removal of the check valve will void the warranty. First one I get... Second not so much. Waiting for the STI FPR and other bits to arrive. One change at a time, this will be a nice win if this BB kills some of this cold rough idle and fuel swings I see when applying the brakes.

Been busy... Sorry for the late reply. PM sent.

If you buy a MC - 26401AG011 Buy the Seal as well! - 26497AG000. Dammit! More waiting! Looked to be part of the MC assembly, but it's not. Brake Booster is here. Have some parts incoming to experiment with fuel regulator and get rid of this cobble mess. Namely 04-07 STI FPR - 22670AA351 Have the new transmission hoses, spring clamps and filter to repair the Trans chop botchery. Filter was extra but figured why not. Still weeping from their worm screw mess clamps. FFS LOL. Noticed while doing an oil change last weekend. AEM Gauges and Earls T adapter finally arrived. Still not wanting to dedicate the cubby for gauges, but I can. Need to call SMY to see if their vent pods will work with the Legacy. Seems only offering for the WRX? But I'm sure to have seen it installed in a Legacy, on da you tubes. Made some aluminum risers for the Primitive pan. Needed cause PVC pipe would only last so long. These were cut out of 1" Aluminum round stock.

Good deal. Hope it works out for you.

Forgot to add. This is the second motor. Rebuilt trans. Third Turbo. 16G (#2) was toast after several thousand miles of piston 4 ringland failing. Limped it home from a 5K CC trip last year. It was not a happy camper. But after several long runs I made it home. It was pissed at the end.

MC kit has no ETA cancelled that order. Will get a new full master ordered likely today. Built the bung last night. May add a pressure gauge to it. 3" Pipe fitting with the threads machined off and a Schrader valve fitted. This will allow me also to pull the vlave out and pull a vacuum for a leak down test. Looking for good options on a smoke rig in all my spare time.

Went thru a few things a couple years back that seemed to help with all of that. While getting new Moog end links on the rack added the Moovetech LCA assembly's, new ball joints and sway end links. Front hubs as well. Also upgraded to LGT spec caliper and rotor combo. Later the CV took a dive and Raxels rebuilds fixed it up for now. Now that the aftermarket LCA cheep bushings groan after heat soak going back to STI LCA bushing and GT front bushing on the Stock LCA. Will probably drop in some new Mood swaybar endlinks as well, these now seem to be getting clunky. Interesting part is the rear seems to have little to no issues. Only mods back there have been swaybar, mount support and sway endlinks.

Last time I was having that issue ended up getting both fronts and the axels replaced. Was the CV on one side. Tried to rebuild but it was pooched. It was a Subaru replacement. Make sure all your tires are the close to the same diameter. There is a +/- variance. But strange things can happen to the center diff if they are not within spec. Got a call from Heuberger that the MC rebuild kit is unobtainium right now. Time to get a complete unit on order now. Told him to cancel what I had on that order. Already waiting for them to fulfill my hose order to replace the bits the Transmission shop Botched.

258K at the moment. She's fighting me. But I will win!

Yeah that bottom cover almost didn't go back on last round for me. I forgot to put it back on before installing the motor. So I lifted it again after putting the bolts and nuts on the studs. Probably for the best as it's the usual, 10lb of S#!% in a 5lb bag. I have a good assortment of 3/8 wobbly drivers and a loooooog extension. In the end we win and that's the main thing.

Good times! First time we missed taking the pitch stop out. Yanked the TQ converter and botched the seal/clip that holds the pump sleeve. Luckily there was not harm or foul. Replaced both parts and reinserted the converter. Second time I didn't even disconnect the front axels and did it all solo. But I did smooge some anti seize on the nipple for good measure. Had a scissor jack under the trans for angle adjustment. Getting better at it each time.