kzr750r1

No. LMFAO I'll need to spin up a plug and get to it. Good call. Ordered the Booster and MC rebuild kit anyway on Sunday.

And the torque converter is in the transmission! Yes those lower studs get bound up and the fun is trying to find that sweet spot with the trans angle. Nice to have two motor stands. That will make swapping parts a breese. Hope your not going to reuse that belt pully. It looks a bit ragged. Good job!

Ok. Thanks for the replies guys. Fuel trims are -7.10 for A and C. B is floating around at .90 to 1.2 currently. I haven't been driving it much. I'm going to pull the IC off and look at the hoses. Make sure none slipped. Timing for sure could be part if it. I'm figuring the last changes he made to help with the knock issues was a compensation to another issue. Likely going to get an order in to replace the Brake booster and replace or rebuild the MC while it's out. First to see if this vac leak is what I'm seeing on monitors and MC for good measure as seals don't last forever. Calipers were upgraded to LGT spec a few years back.

Was just pricing the dash again and got hit will a surprise from PG&E. Considering that my brake booster is compromised. Noting Lean AFR and High AF Leaning 1 numbers immediately while depressing the pedal. So tells me there may be a crack in the diaphragm. Normal static tests it passes. Have a thread looking for ideas in Tuning. Curious if any of you see the same while monitoring AFR and short term AF learning trims? Don't even need to be driving. Just at idle in the driveway. Monitor these two above and press the brakes? Stable or large swings? Would explain why my stumble is getting worse every year. Time for a MC rebuild as well while I'm at it.

Gahhhh. Wish I had the cash! Go get it Mike!

My go to sealant at for cases, oil pan, head covers is Three bond 1211. Went there as I found it was the only one that is fuel resistant in addition to oil. Sensor safe yada yada. Well see how well it works long term. Looking back on a thread rebuilding the ZRX noticed I used some fugi bond on the case halfs. But probably ditched this tube right after as it's not in the tool box any more. If a tube isn't used in a timely manner it's ditched around here. Same for a roll of tape. Heat cycles kill it out here. After a few it's time to get a new batch.

Cobb is at least attempting (as claimed in the parts descriptions) to wither be CARB compliant or in process if applicable. I don't see any other manufacturers spending the money to do this. If you must keep this cat only DP go open source and find a tuner who is seasoned. Kicking myself for selling a unused cobb dp. But was already tiering of swapping parts every test cycle. Far as I've read for my car they have reached 50 state compliance for are the AP, Up pipe, BOV, Turbo intake, SF intake kits, AOS (Hmmmm, This one surprised me). Three port boost controller and DP testing??? Wish them the best on this effort. Now only if GS and IAG would do the same.

Interesting test results this morning. Sorry for the long post. Trying to narrow down why the car runs really rough to the point of stalling after initial startup. Until it's fully warm it's not happy. Checking if I have a brake booster issue. Pulled the check valve after performing the Air Tightness Check as mentioned in the FSM. After running the car for a few min turned it off and pressed the peddle three successive times. Checked out ok. Operation check was fine too. Pressed the peddle and started the car. Peddle throw increased as it should. Pulled the booster check valve for good measure. Also wanted to hear if there was a pressure variance after removing... Yep. Distinct sound of air moving once the seal was cracked open. Check valve seemed to work fine. Used some ACF50 to clean it out. Reinstalled. Once staring the car again and letting it warm up to 160+ put it in reverse and didn't touch the throttle. Stumble stall died. Restart and watched AFR and AFR learning 1. If I pumped the breaks AFR went lean and AFR learning 1 would spike to 25. Curious if you guys have noticed this last part on your rides. Keep in mind this brake booster is the original has 258K on it. Plus the original MC. Did notice some white residue on the back side of the grommet, coming out of the check valve and inside the new vacuum hose. So possibly I have a small leak in the MC dropping fluid into the booster causing slow degradation of the diaphragm but not a complete failure. If one of you can replicate my test on your car while parked? Car warmed up. Pump the breaks three times. Watch AFR and Main AF learning are you seeing it AFR go lean and AF Learning adding fuel? I'm on this path as the over all running of the car has degraded over the years. It was a little rough starting while cold after the first motor rebuild. Now after another 110K it's getting worse when cold. Now even after fully heat cycled it's not as smooth as I'd like it or remember. I can't attribute all of this vibration to GroupN motor mounts and RallyTech Street Trans mount stiffener.

Subaru Roadkill episode needs to be at least time lapse video captured!

Dunno... Mine were tan cloth as well...Striped the cloth off and painted them flat black. But the attachment point at the top of the right one was buggered years ago. OCD wants it tight and connected. Thanks!

Body A-Pillar Trim Panel (Right, Upper, Grey, Light) Part Number: 94010AG06AOR Fabric condition is not a concern. Attachment points are. Please let me know if any of you have one in hand to sell. Thanks!

Keep in mind after the green speed change Cobb is working with CARB and trying to get most of their parts certified. This has to be an expensive exercise. Some are already ok. Keep an eye on their website and notes on the parts. I hope one day they get the down pipe approved. Be nice if Grimmspeed could get their TM inter cooler but I'm not holding my breath there. Holding onto my kit for now on that front.

Dammit Jim! I'm a Dr not a mind reader...

Ok thanks. Waiting for some HW to show up. In the mean time I'm going to try and measure voltage at the pump while driving. Hopefully I can get the leads of my meter to stay in place.

Had a stop at the American River Confluence on my way from El Dorado to Forrest Hills. You can see the mud wash from the burn scar after the forrest hills fire this last summer. This is really high. Old Auburn-Forrest hills road was closed at this time so I had to head up to Auburn to go over the bridge to Forrest Hills. No snow up at Moms house any more. All washed away by the recent rains.

Had the chance to drive the car for several hours yesterday. Learning A and C locked at -7.10 but B started at 1.2 but dropped to .70 by the end of the day. What's interesting is the main learning and correction monitors are 0.00 when duty cycle is 100%. I'm seeing the stumble happening almost always at 66% pump duty cycle. 33% and 100% is ok and strong.

Just ordered two AEM pressure gauge kits. Plus the block adapter for the oil and the bezel label so one can be used for fuel. Have wanted a static oil pressure reference on this car for a while anyway. Going to prep for cubby install. Have a dual gauge bezel already in the horde. Need to open up the dash anyway and get these HVAC actuators replaced. Reading thru the FP Wire/FPCM thread. Kind of a messy thread. Looks like the STI FPCM is a good item to place as well. But first I want to see this FP information and check voltage at the pump to be sure the pump is not getting the proper voltage. Using this thread to keep it specific to my setup since those other threads are just a mess.

Since Rev 2 map was applied. As Mike said above I'm in need of more data before making any other changes. Totally agree. A friend has a temp fuel pressure gauge I'm going to install to see if I'm getting a dip in line pressure during the stumble. Also looking at adding a couple of static gauges anyway. Fuel pressure may as well be one of them. Oil pressure with alarm as well. Current tuner may be working around this by adding more duration in the injector cycle that is not needed. Hence the over all learning view pulling fuel. Talking to my friend last night this was similar to what was happening when I was E tuning with Cryo. So it's not new, but now with the larger valves the scaling is farther off. Kind of pointing to the power delivery at the pump at the low duty cycle. When it's at 100% I feel zero stutter. This is the same pump model both have been tuning with, DW 65c.

D gives no value, correct. Seems to be only A, B and C.

With this revision all three A B and C seem to be settling at -7.10. Curious how that will change once the weather warms back up.... Were not that cold right now. Kiddo took off with the car. I need to go get some gutter down pipe extensions. Couple locations water is pooing into my crawl space! GTG! Started a thread in the Tuning section. I'll keep my BS about the running stability over there for the most part. Mike is right and how I feel right now. I need more data to solve why this car is acting like this.

Yeah. I've read that thread on the wire/controller upgrade. But your telling me 06 was lacking and what I need to do here. Was hoping not to go too much farther down the rabbit hole. But I'm already in and need to get back out. Will re read it the fuel pump fix thread again today and get some materials together. Was thinking about static gauges anyway so may go the send unit route. But up for a temp if I can get it visible while driving to see if there is a dip. Calling a friend in a moment to see if he has one. I appreciate you taking the time.

Thanks! 1) No 2) No 3) No but it's all un modified. Will read up on how to confirm if the controller is healthy. 4) Yes. After revision 1 he killed off the knock. Rev 2 is an attempt to help this stumble. But right now the learning tables A, B and C are all at or going to -7.10. This weekend I went back to Rev one for a test and the long term was worse. I'll look into a way to monitor fuel pressure, check voltage and component test. I agree on the tune. Not really clear what he's changed on the revisions. He's keeping it to himself. Not many options I can trust any more. Only variable I changed post tune was putting the stock mufflers back on. But as I've understood they are not a huge restriction. Was tuned with the Nameless 5" OBXT cans on it.

I'm still fighting something here. HW or Tune??? Not sure. Car has for a while been rough after startup until heat soaked. There are Group N motor mounts and now the Rallytech street insert with a new trans mount installed. As I recall was like this before the new motor with 100mm forged pistons and +1mm valve upgrade. The rest of the motor is stock ish. JMP vf40 and a clear up pipe with resistor mod. Trans was just rebuilt so lockup is good. TransGo kit installed. Yes it's pretty firm. 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 shifts are smoothing out, depends on how aggressive the accel or decel is being performed.. The rest all depends on how far into the torque request is being pushed. Very smooth otherwise. Tuner has settled me and were not knocking as was happening after the initial dyno tune. Currently on Rev 2. Issue is also the dreaded stumble. Seems any time it's at or near early boost it's hesitating. -1 to +2 psi. before and after that it's smooth. Went for a quick drive with the tuner in the car and he's not seeing any misfire, AFR look good. No granted this was a quick test. I just stopped in and he had 10 min to look with me. I have already changed the vac source for the fuel regulator. Pump was replaced before... Still happening. Average gas mileage is less than ideal. So last items to just chuck money at would be a new fuel regulator or injectors. Trying to avoid this if it's not the problem. Car has 258K on the clock.

Not yet. Just curious if it's worth the time to invest reading into it more. Will look into it some more. I don't have android hardware to play with so there is also a bit of an investment involved.

Likely put the spring clamps back in service. If they leak will go with the pressed gear type. Sleeve type don't normally go down this far in OD. Poking around this weekend and confirmed. Yep... 8 POS hose clamps were installed. Changed the intake air filter. Spritzed the MAF. Put the second Turkeylord stainless T on the vacuum line to feed the fuel regulator. Shortened the feed line a little bit. Added some Techron fuel system cleaner in a fresh tank. Rotated tires. Need to replace in the next few months. Been eyeballing Enkei Raijan 18x8 +45 with Michelin 245/45 Pilot Sport All Season 4 mounted. Remember I'm not lowered on LGT struts. With no intention to do so. Question. Can BTSM work with a Cobb married ECU? Learning tables are pulling fuel right now with this revision of the tune. Still a little rough until the group N motor mounts heat soak. Car likes to stall unless fully warmed up. Namely backing out of the driveway. This sucks and screwing my average gas mileage numbers per tank. Plus it's the daughter unit driving it more lately to work and school. We live on a busy street so stalling backing out of the driveway ot at the light is somthing I'd hope she can avoid. Looking for a better way to isolate what is happening. I don't want to keep chucking parts at it until needed. We need to find her a nice civic and keep it stock.