kzr750r1

It's just tedious in stop and go. Just keep rolling and maintain a big cushion traffic permitting.

Nope just a sticker. Guess you need to wait three months for that prize. Well I seem to be breaking them into more understanding about these motors. I think they realize that it's time to diversify a bit to stay in business. Need to confirm bore tolerance from Manley for each piston size. Made a promised to print out the tolerances section of the manual for them, but life held me up today. Thankful for having a loaner truck to drive, but dammit, totally miss my auto in a 3 hour commute for 52 miles. Reminds me never to leave SJ at 3:45 pm on a Friday.

TiC FU bolts on my doorstep with the Free Range Racing Hose kit. Machine shop was gearing toward a run of Subaru blocks and such. Another customer came in and handed over a couple NA motors. Was drooling over mine apparently while schooling these guys what all the markings mean on these motors... They picked up a spare block to experiment with and ensure their hone can be adjusted to not push through the bore too far. They didn't want to experiment on mine... Nice of them.

Just be glad we don't have to deal with this mon... Those hard lines are toast and spraying goop on them is not going to fix the corrosion that has already taken hold. Sorry you guys have to deal with this rust. Kills me every time I see it.

Probably only if the offending car goes through SOA main office after loosing control. That is pretty sad these parts can't resist this corrosion.

Yeah... Waiting through last week was killing me. Can't wait to get this hard parts order in. Then inventory what else I need at Subaru. Least Subaru is usually only three days out max on stuff.

Parts are at the machine shop. They will call with confirmation of measurements for the hard parts.

Best answer your own question... Did you feel like it was slipping? Meaning if it's swinging from 5K to 6K and back without forward momentum keeping up... Your slipping.

To step in with a customer note... I should have bought the full kit in the first place. Not that there is anything wrong with capping the 05/06 turbo feed. I just don't prefer seeing the cap on mine and will be asking Mike soon for a hose that will replace it to match the new turbo feed. Mine is based on the V1 filter.

Gahhhhh.... Now he remembers. The machine shop I'm going to use told me they were taking the last week of this month off. Guess I'll stop calling now, wait until next week. Hope they aren't at burning man. Sounded like a mud bog fest this year turning people back. I had three exhaust buckets drop onto the cardboard during tear down. Guess now I have the time to confirm what valves they belong to. Will not order more buckets till the heads are back and anchored down again. So we wait.

Case split, crank out, pistons, main bearings, wrist pins and Organised in boxes. Calling machine shop Monday. Don't expect much more than clean up, cylinder hone, valve lap and measurement confirmation for bearing and piston order.

It just depends on the region IF they have the new gear and adopt it as standard. Now there's the new test, but how to pass an OBD1 and older cars before the exemption cutoff? They have to keep running a sniffer on those cases. To be fair shops are going to be forced to run pipe test for a long time. Later probably charging more for it to keep phasing out this range of cars.

It's a short block as of last night. Will split the case later this after noon or Sunday. Main thing is off to the machine shop next week.

Not sure about MAF but hard sifts for me were cleared by dropping and refilling the ATF a couple times. Doing two pan drops is only needed if you have never changed fluid or trust the recommended interval. I was trusting subau's tech at the time. After reading and learning more found it's best to keep fresh fluid and drop out the clutch pack debris out of the system. That keeps the valve body working it's best so shifts are never sudden events. For me they were so hard it felt like we were rear ended.

Main thing with this suggestion is to get less smear and have a clean level indication. Low should read low... Low is not good, no reading really bad.

Check before starting the car. Pull the dip stick wipe. Leave the stick backed out of the tube 6" or so out of the tube for a couple min then check. With the angle the stick tube goes into the pan first pull drags oil up with it an it's going into the pan at a severe angle.

It's just a shame they use that garbage material... Just add a little dripped coolant and heat and it turns to mush pretty quick.

Same logic I'm using right now.

Cam Pulleys off. Blasted myself in the face when the drivers side intake cam broke loose. Those glasses now need a new screw. Lost the screw while bending the frames back in shape. No worries there... THE CAM BOLTS ARE OFF! Beer! Gonna strip the rest of the parts off while I'm sending a new dump of logs to an equipment support team.

Popped the vbelt pulley off with air assist. Came right out with no swear words. Looking closer at the drivers side exhaust cam pulley it looks like Subaru tech slipped a few times with the spec wrench, several chips present, thanks guys! Gonna use the belt lock down method tomorrow to attempt the dreaded bolt removal.

Been there for a few months. It's OK.

Manual states Dextron III or equivalent.

Ok guess not from the amsoil master...

Best part of SBT tip is the free play measurement. Not many of us are going to have the tool to measure belt tension.

Most folks here are running the 5w/40w due to the 30w dropping in viscosity in between change intervals down to a 20w ish. It would have to be very cold all the time to justify using a 0w anything.