kzr750r1

Yeah there should be a measurement provided of how much movement you get on one of the belt legs for the right tension. I need to look that up for myself as well. Too much and your going to waste the bearings in the pump or alternator. Not to mention premature wear on the belt. Too little and it will slip and make noise. Needs to be that just right zone.

Cool. Once I get the bores inspected well see about tolerances. Good info on the rings will have to read up on that. Yeah I'm with you on the belt. This is one of the reasons I'm doing most of this myself. I just can't trust people to do the right thing these days. No, I don't seem to have issues with this belt but makes me crazy seeing it's not installed correctly.

Manley eh...Why Manley in your opinion? Have most everything off the block now but it was too late to bust out the air hammer to knock off the crank pulley. Looks like Subaru tech that did the last belt change just slapped it on irrespective of the lines on the belt and pulley notches. I've rotated a few times and the pulley marks all line up but the lines are offset several teeth.

Just take the belt off and wash with a light dawn solution and put it back on. Let it completely dry before installing again. You removed the alternator pivot to get that cover off. Hope you relieved the tension first. As I've found out recently the alternator is on there pretty good. It's not just going to jump off... Course release the tension before removing this pivot bolt would be best. To purge the air you have in the system either lift the front wheels up and turn lock to lock several times with the motor running. I like Max suggestion and perform several figure eights in an empty parking lot. If it's bad you may want to pack some rags around the reservoir and keep the level low for a little bit. I freaked out one of my neighbors pulling maneuvers in a quiet 4 way intersection in my neighborhood. He looked perplexed.

Pulled most of the peripherals off the motor. Need to mark up the injectors and coil packs and pull the fuel system tonight. Then time to pull the flywheel and get the center belt cover off for the rest. Progress.

Curious if I have a filter... Never bothered to look.

Yeah I found that one with google... But will read through it now. Thanks.

Reading through the 2005 manual there is little visual information and removal text us vague about the torque converter. The converter was out quite a ways and output shaft was not always square in the hole. I want to be sure there was no damage to the seal and input shaft before placing the motor back on. Going to keep looking for information but figured I'd put the word out here and see if someone could assist with my concern.

That's what I have on my list for head stud kit. Will likely still go that route. Not ordering parts till the machine shop hands me back measurements. One interesting note is I have an AA/AB block.

Yeah. Put the Bridgeport to work and bust another hole in there. How far probably no more than 2.5". Just a little more clearance Clarence.

I will have Questions! In all I was pleased it was out before 5. Would not have happened that quick unless F1 showed up. Been emailing back and forth with Tim at RCM... He's saying go big and use 12 to 14mm studs for these heads. Will probably not but food for thought. Cost of machining to use them may be cost prohibitive. Well see after tear down.

Thanks for taking those pictures. I didn't have any of them on the lift and such. I'm going to modify that lift a little for next time to give a couple inches from the bumper. Now that all the parts are in the back of the car I can flank the stand between two tables and begin tear down.

Yes I pinched mine. Just place the new one at the first step I believe and should be good. Luckily for me I didn't loose the old one. I had to fish it out of the pump. Gonna do it again while the motor is out.

If it could go back where it was I left it there. I'll be bagging more stuff with the motor dis assembly than with the rest of it. I've een all these parts out before except for splitting the block so not much of a mystery there. Need to replace a couple rounded off boogers. Getting the flex plat off was one thing but having the torque converter follow the motor was not good. I'll be reading up on that part a little more now. :/

Well F1 left an hour or so ago and we had the motor out by 2pm ish. Didn't take as long as I had suspected. We were a little hung up for a moment on with the torque converter pulling out with the motor but worked it out regardless. Challenges were the CV needed to be backed out of the diff to get a good bite on two of the nuts and the torque converter hassle. Just a little interweb to find the procedure for bolt removal on the flex plate. Thanks again to F1 for driving up and giving me a hand!

Lift pivot I had to order from Harbor Freight will be here Thursday. Hope they don't need a signature and if so the boy is here. I'm going to start tearing down Saturday afternoon. Have missed now two band rehearsals need to make Saturdays session. Sunday will be a full day of fun. I'm gonna be a wreck Monday.

:O Not nice to Mike!

I have the intake hose from Mike. Possible mini group buy in the works for the Samco stuff with BarmanB. Well see how that pans out. In the middle of a hooo haaa with work right now and one of the equipment vendors... I'll drop the bolts from the list if they make no sense. I do need to talk to Mike about the full motor gasket kit he has on sale anyway.

Looking at Samco hose purchase. Crazy to me we have to import them from the UK... But ok. I'm looking at the ARP bolts rod bolts. The description of press in makes me wonder if these would work for stock connecting rods. Placed it in the tear down spot in the driveway.

Agreed it's probably a little of both. Not tall enough and material used shrank over the heat cycles.

Hoping your not thinking I'm talking about the valve cover gaskets. I'm talking about the intake manifold and TB gaskets. Seems to me the old ones were just not tall enough. If they were we would probably not be replacing them with the updated version. Plus the material change probably to allow for a little more crush for a better seal.

I have a Recaro that is available in black... Just need to reattach the harness and it's ready to go. Still like new with one small patch of the velvet pulled away from some stickey crap "kids". I keep forgetting it's there after cleaning up the garage and stowed it on a high shelf. PM me if interested. It was one of the best seats we had for my daughter. The bolster was perfect for those ride naps. But this is more a Child seat than an infant seat... Not rear facing.

Taller... Seems like different material and both of these combined seem to keep it from leaking in the long run. I replaced them looking for a fix to a stumble that would come up on occasion... That fix ended up being the OVCS, replaced as a pair.

I did recently replace my OCV but not sure how that relates.

The update gaskets are considerably different. Good move replacing that one as well.