kzr750r1

Looking forward to the next Buffalo Bill Pumpkin Ale. Where do we pick up these 100K+ mileage stickers? Still haven't taken the road side 800 number sticker off the drivers window.

Yeah... That's why I'm sounding off... Perfect come back... So I'd need to add to the list rod and crank bearing kits. I'm slightly concerned about the full motor gasket kit and wondering if anyone has used the kit Mike is selling at Infamous. I'm not all that concerned about the quality of the head gasket. I'm expecting to swap the head gaskets for a different set. Have the rest been up to par as well? I'm assuming not using the head gaskets in the kit would be due to getting the right gasket thickness matching up the difference from how much material was removed decking the head (case if needed). Plus making sure I've installing the latest bad ass materials. Already thinking I need to order the bolts MrTris is using for the cam gears.

Just watched Subaru Mikes STI block rebuild again. Shifting my thinking a little. It's not all that complicated rebuilding... What has me thinking more to split this case is the internal seals. Mainly the washer seals on the case bolts but also the orings. A refresh on these would surely be helpful with longevity of all the work pulling the motor. Main thing I like about Mikes videos is he's explaining in normal english the important things to be concerned about. Using lube on the bolts for a proper torque is a good tip. Will need to get a ring compressor, Oil can. What do you guys think about his use of Ultra grey silicone for case seal? Depending on condition of the cylinders and bearings I'm hoping to reuse all the bearings and just reseal after honing the bores. New stock rings go in and go onto the next step of putting the heads back on after a refresh.

Ok as I suspected.... We must wait for the final tune and testing... Great build.

Cool build... Can't wait for the finally.

Just added Crank Position Sensor to the Subaru list. Getting a little nervous thinking I can rebuild this block. I'll be out of state next week and probably not very active here.

Oh yeah... I did bullet proof the stock TMIC that's in service now so covered x2, since perrin.

McPerfect... I was thinking as such about the oil pump. Thanks Brian! Not having issues with oil consumption. I'm thinking just as you are. Inspect, if McHosed walls then decide bore/new pistons or short block. Stay stage one unless I really just build another long block. My friends argument is the boost is hell on rings and by his account I drive hard. But then again he's half blind and drives trucks most of the time.

I could get another intake if this one is perished. Probably 25K on it. Also have a perrin on the shelf. In addition I have a Perrin TMIC that may go on if I'm inclined for a Stage 2 tune after this build is over with. Been pining for a DP for a long time. I have some conflicting goals so stage two my not be in the cards right now. The hoses I'm thinking of are ones Max has suggested using safety wire to stop the vapor smell. Should have done it last time I had the intake off but was not having an issue then with it so moved on. Will look into a oil pressure send unit. I was not intending to separate the block. I'm looking for some sage advice here. Am I high thinking this block can last another 100K after this work? If so I may pass till go boom. If not I'd like to avoid doing this again for the next three or so years. On the fence about this part. Mechanic friend thinks I'm not doing it right unless the rings at minimum are replaced. Now granted he's not a Subaru mechanic. Also coworker and Subaru fanatic has a Subaru certified mechanic as a house mate... Will be bending his ear on this subject as well. So this may turn into a full rebuild. Well see. Just added a few more hoses by general description I'll be picking up. Just replaced a bunch with the radiator a couple months back.

Reserved for the start pics.

In cart now at Infamous: Manley 99.75mm pistons Standard size bearings for Rods and Crank Group N Motor Mount's Group N Pitch Stop Mount Gates Racing Subaru Timing Kit - With Kevlar Racing Timing Belt (Spare) Venair Silicone Throttle Body Hose - dropped mine is fine Subaru Downpipe To Intermediate Pipe Hardware - dropped cause I don't need them GrimmSpeed 02-10+ WRX/STi/LGT Header Collectors to Crossover Gasket Pair 7-layer 20% thicker then GrimmSpeed 02-10+ WRX/STi/LGT Manifold to Uppipe Gasket 7-layer 22% thicker then OEM Subaru 05-06 Legacy GT Full Engine Gasket and Seal Kit *DELETE*Subaru EJ25 11mm Oil Pump - Brian3676 ARP Subaru EJ20 & EJ25 Head Stud Kit Will upgrade the passenger ACVS hose the rest of the filter kit to make it a complete replacement. From Subaru: Thermostat Water pump - PN: 21111AA026 based on Covert Russian suggestion. Oil Pump Turbo intake (possible) - F1inspiredLGT[/color Heater core hoses to the case - Has to be Subaru as the silicon kit will not have these in it. Oil cooler hose to the case Coolant Coolant conditioner Crank Position Sensor Half Moons On the shelf already: Killer B Oil Pickup RalliTEK Trans mount bushing Several gaskets for the exhaust New coil connector kits Free Range Racing hose kit Need to buy: Bulk fuel hose Fuji bond -What I have is probably old. Load of smooth bore hose clamps Will upgrade the passenger ACVS line like the rest of the filter kit to make it a complete replacement. Upper and Lower Silicon hoses black What else? Oil Pressure send unit - F1inspiredLGT TiC FU Cam Bolt Kit - Single AVCS - MrTris - Received Tools to purchase: Ring compressor Oil squirt can

Well I've been here for a little while. Have not offered much in entertainment so here is my stab at a build worthy of dorkumenting. Little back history. Bought the OBXT new in 06. Was a replacement for my single cab 2500 ram. Should have never dropped that truck from the fleet but that's another story. I was on the fence for a long time what Subaru was a good fit for my family. In the end the OBXT Limited fit the bill. For years I just ran it stock. No mods just maintenance. Then came 90K and a weird issue. In the end it was a seized waste gate. My thinking the dealership would find the culprit while doing the 105K service and I'd be rolling down the road... Nope. Service was done but problem not solved. Only suggestion was a new Boost solenoid. Ended up at Garage One for further diagnosis and a fix by replacing the hot side of my VF40. a little over 600 bucks and it was good to go for quite a while. FF to 120K and I started noticing oil seeping from the IC and really start getting my head wrapped around what is going on with this motor. Was having issues with stalling for quite a while. Picked up a Cobb AP and began throwing off the shelf maps at it. Long story short here I have collected some nice hop up parts that aren't even on the car any more. Have gone back to stock on IC, intake, Up Pipe and what I really should have done was replace the AVCS. Wrapping all the vac lines was also a huge step forward. Lesson learned here. So around 140K my turbo began squealing until it really warmed up. So it was time for a replacement. I decided to go with the 16G in the VF40 housing. Plus pull the perrin up and went to gutted stock. Main reasoning was visual inspection can be hit and miss fail with smog stations. I chose to look as stock as possible. 160K now and I'm for sure in head gasket failure land. Crappy looking coolant bubbles after warm up in the overflow. It's time to pull it. Funny cause I have never heard of someone pulling the motor for a valve adjustment... Now I know why. It needs gaskets replace more that valve adjustment. So I'm compiling a good size cart at Infamous now. Will add some items I'll get from Subaru. Hoping some of you experts can pipe in on some advice. 1) Should I just plan on replacing pistons and rings? 2) Better to just short block and rebuild this old one for future swaps? Have discussed this a little else ware on the forum and really grateful local members are offering to help! This is huge! I have not rebuilt a car motor before and going forward with it is going to be a learning and satisfying experience!

I have the Subaru ATF in stock. Bought a case a while back and have plenty on hand after the last transmission flush. But if I don't need to use this I wont. Made a right mess last time I tried to replace the oring. Have the replacement but need the time (and spine) to tear into it again.

Yeah I began changing it slowly a long time ago with a vac tank here and there a long time ago. Gonna start doing the same and get a couple quarts of Dextron III to make the swap with this method. I need to put this upgraded oring in there too so may as well kill these two birds and see if I can get more miles out of this pump. Would do it now but my lower back is jacked at the moment. Leaning over the car would cripple me in this condition.

I've done the same using the Subaru ATF. But I'm seeing all of you use dextron of some sort. So now I'm due two things. 1) get to replacing the o ring on the feed hose to the pump. 2) use some other fluid for this than the Subaru ATF.

159K and pretty sure a head gasket leak is going to force the motor out for repair. Time to start making a parts list and find good motor builder near me.

A co worker is roaming around out there right now. He posted a couple of selfies trail side on Facebook.

Depends on what you want and if it's on the shelf already. I had mine in a few days since he had stock.

What I read there was a bunch of disclaimers and open verbage to be intrurpreted based on perspective... Did you receive an off road only warning with your product? Most will say yes. If the part is not CARB approved it's going to get the Off Road Only classification. That some are passing with after maket IC??? All depends on the tech how he inturpreted the "rules". I say good for you. But others YMMV.

I'll bet 9 out of 10 don't know what they are looking at. Let me know if you need help on the swap. I may be interensted in the DP...

Intake can be taken off. Look at the fuel lines again. Clamps at the fire wall side can be removed in addition to the one clamp at the bracket of death. They are just hose clamps. Be ready for some fuel to come out (rag). Of course thered are other items to disconnect. Intake tube support, Intercooler, wire harness support and throttle body connector... I'm probably missing a couple. Don't fight it trying to keep it all connected. It should not take that long. While your in there replace the fuel line clamps with somthing better than these poor hose clamps used. The ones facing the case on top of the motor. Max had also suggested earlier to wire wrap them. Your choice. It will help later if you have not had fuel vapor it may happen in the future.

So yeah... I just was smoged a month or so ago... Sniffer is going away. How much of the tables they are comparing is so far unknown. Be nice to keep each other in the loop WTF is going to happen. I was lucky. Had my mostly stock setup in play. The new EGT had failed recently. Tuner helped me out with a EGT delete map. But I din't have it in play during the test, thought I did. At any point I could have thrown a CEL but didn't during the RMP tests. It passed with a mild tune stock UP *gutted*/Down and 16G in the NOS compressor housing. I'd like t think placing the resistor mod in play and keep the EGT there as a pho sensor would pass visual. My concern is in fact how deep are they looking at variables? EGT should vary. Not just lock in a static 1250 degree reading. I was carful about talking to the tech about it. They are in no position to discuss unless they know you personally. Allowing modified cars theourh their shop is a huge finacial liability and not many are going to stick their necks out. For all they know I'm a cop. I'm good for another 2 years. Close to stock anyhow so not much of a concern. My deal is this. It's in my best interest to keep the car running in top shape. If the PPM of BS comming out of the tail pipe is within design specs of this model the leave me alone. The new test seems to be more about checking for CEL and if they go so far to check if a tune is on the ECU, thats taking it too far. It stops being about keeping emmissions in check and more about telling me how to get there. Not freedom IMO, isn't this supposed to be a free country?

Ummm... M1 is not the bees knees to many here. Shell Rotella T6 is the most suggested 5-40 synthetic. Also the bypass valve pressue is high on the subaru filter and so should any replacment. There is a larger filter with 23psi bypass vlave from Mazda that fits as well. Wixs has one and I think Nappa gold (wix) aside from stock are what you should be using for filter.

Correct

^Dont wait, just do... Your wallet will thank you.