kzr750r1

So much faster to pull the motor and rip the heads off than working hunched over the fender. So much of the motor can be put back together outside of the car it's kinda funny. You'll get better at it. I always wondered why there was no talk of adjusting valve gaps. Figured it out we blow them up before needing a rebuild. Get the head studs, seriously. For a street car there is no need for the big ones... The torque procedure is soooo much better. Mine are on their second build. No stretch.... Heads are B or D? Either way will work. Just curious. For real get a custom tune. Just kinda bummed Cobb has gone this green route and we can't delete monitors any more. Work with a reputable Subaru shop that knows the HW. My first rebuild made so many mistakes. Mostly trusting the wrong people. Have been really happy with this last rebuild. M45 rebuilt the short block, Wiseco 100mm pistons, new crank and they donated some rods. This is the last bore on this block. Heads +1 valves, had the new valve guides in hand already from Infamous Performance. Had to buy new castings during the first rebuild, since one shop hosed my original heads. Had him add the valve guides for just in case in the future. So glad I did. Mike from Infamous hooked me up. Bummed he had to get out of Cali. But we understand.

Ahh. I didn't read into it that far. My bad. So we are talking about a EJ257.

EJ255 is not using forged pistons. Will it live another 200K without going forged? At stage 2 probably not. If it's not too hosed up you may be able to get your block rebuilt with new pistons and reuse the rods. Cranks are not that expensive. Get a shop that knows Subaru for the machine work. The Company 23 wrenches help. Correct about #4. Choose your poison, IAG or Killer B for pump and pickup. I went Killer B. Go for the TIC FU bolts for the cam gears. Do the #4 cooling mod. Get the ARP head studs. Most all the seals will be in the kit you'll need. But take a long look at your hoses. Most will probably be pooched. Going colder plugs can't hurt. But not really needed. Get a custom tune.

Went with 10mm stock oil pump on my last build. Had a 11mm on the first rebuild. But given this is a street car didn't think too much about it. Been running great. Machine shop kept pushing a 12mm. + 1 for a JMP rebuild. VF40 from him is running great. With the cold have been creeping to 17psi on long pulls.

Just spoke to their tech rep about my plans. Wheels are tracking to be here Friday. Time to get my tires ordered. Then get ready for another alignment true up. Had some question if a spacer was needed. Went with the 3mm to cover basis, just in case. So in addition to the lugs needed and covering basis some GT spec (since I've upgraded) Hawk Ceramic pads. FYI they have the Subaru All weather rubber mats in stock as well. I had worn a hole in mine under the go pedal. Wanted to pull the carpet set before it goes that far.

Finally found the wheels I've wanted on the car. FastWRX had them in stock apparently. Ground shipping so it will be a min before they arrive. Rota Gravel 18x8 +48... May need a 3mm spacer on the front but will see. Going to spoon on some Pilot Sport A/S 4 245 45 R18 once they come in. Now looking for a new set of lock lugs.

Seriously suspension mods transformed the car for me. Whiteline Sways, Moog or your choice of endlinks, AVO rear mount stiffeners. I had a short time with the Stage one Cobb tune before getting Etune from Cryo.

Welcome to the ghost town. Nameless has a full cat back option for the OBXT. I have a pair of the older version of the 5" mufflers not in use at the moment. Set your goals. Stay on track with said goals. Your going to need some other mods first thing a tune to support the DP. Off the shelf Cobb tunes are ok but all depends on goals and current condition of your car/HW already in play. Not many out there will still have the stock turbo, can happen though. If that is changed to something other than the stock setup you need to go custom tune. Cobb will only be a platform to help make the changes, they will not be getting involved in chasing all the options out there. They are focused on stock HW tunes with their off the shelf maps. Example: BNR16G... Needed a custom tune. No off the shelf tune from Cobb will facilitate the added fuling needs. Regardless of DP installed. Search a bunch as KZJonny mentioned. Many have gone full race car to find it's a can of worms and spend way more than it's worth.

Anything I'm finding under 100K miles is 5 digits for passenger cars. Seems the same on the entire west coast no matter the brand.

This would fit the bill but don't have that much scratch to throw out there at the moment. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/fremont-2009-subaru-impreza-outback/7703559549.html

Worthy of consideration. Not really interested in CVT or Direct Injection. But seems this ship may have sailed unless I'm looking for a trailer queen. Drove friend up to El Dorado Hills Toyota to pick up a one owner Scion Xb. 2012 with 75K on the clock was 12K out the door.

It's always fun searching for something and finding your own posts from a decade or more.

Keep looking on Craigslist for a decent H6 OB for her. There are a few but most are very high mileage and/or people giving up on small issues. I need to blow the car apart and finish some activities for long term.

Ahhh. Just read this on his website. Interesting concept. Allowing for some options. Fluidampner was roughly 12oz heavier than the stock unit sitting on my kitchen counter.

Made a difference for me. I've heard more so for folks with a MT. Sell the Perrin or see if you can return it... Or go stock. Heck I'd even give you this last stock unit I just pulled off to not use the Perrin. Only has 10 to 12K on it. I too hesitated because of the cost. But it's worth it.

Well done. I know the feeling all too well. Forking over this kind of money is no fun. Just a tip from recent experience. Get a Fluidampner. Stat. PN: 531101 Worth every penny.

It was the low RPM use that I noticed the most. Less NVH, belts didn't hurt either. Daughter is about to use it to go to work. I'm hoping for a solid report later tonight.

Well chock up the Fuidamper to the list of things that should have been done a long time ago. New belts are smooth as well. Using the Gates RPM version... Kevlar reinforced units are now black, not blue. Less alternator/steering pump noise present. Zero feedback or learned knock on my errand run yesterday with mixed in town and freeway. Feels smoother. Go figure. Nice to see the timing belt in good shape and no belt material chazeled onto the idlers.

Company 23 Fluidamper wrench finally arrived. Another set of "race" accessory belts in house. Gates is making them black instead of blue. Overkill for sure. Radiator is here. Hoses were replaced last year during motor rebuild. Find one spring clamp in the stash and use it. Killer B cooling inlet is a bitch to get the spring clam installed but I did it before... Well do it again. Need a couple more ATF hoses to replace all in the loop from the bad clamp job the Transmission shop "helped" me with. Have all the other ATF hoses, clamps and a new ATF filter in house. Next is make decisions IF I'm going to put wheels on this unit with the new tires. Existing tires are getting close time. Hoping in the end the initial warmup NVH will be less with this Fluidampner in play.

Found out the second revision of the last tune the car is happier now. I may have been running an old map from 2019 ish. Just ordered ANOTHER Company 23 wrench for the Fluidamper install. Waiting for the new belts to come in anyway. This would be number four to primarily just live in the tool box for the rare occasions I need them... Talking to my buddy last night over some adult sodas. Have hatched a plan to use the Bridgeport to shave off the lip on the timing belt cover. I was going to use other means but this would be much better control and cleaner in the end. Still kick myself for needing to sell my Bridgeport several years back. They go for so much more now. Once I get this fluidamper in this pig I'll get an appointment for the tuner to get this dialed in. I've made enough changes it would probably help in the long run.

Just had a report mine was doing it again. Daughter let me know, I hadn't seen it happen again since October. But she's the primary driver of the car these days. Getting hard to find a few open days in her schedule to work on the beast.

Arrived. Thanks. Heavier than I was expecting.

PM sent

I'm worse and remind her not to do as I do when she's with me. I'm a bad example.

I'm saying they swing through out the drive. Mostly A swings through out the drive Normally adding or +. B a little swings +/-. C not so much and always - fuel on that monitor. Just took it on a combo short highway/city loop to pick up some motorcycle parts. Zero roughness in all cylinders. DAM was back to normal. I'm not romping on it, yesterday boost looked all in good target range or below. But will be asking the girl a few questions... I can net a much better average MPG than I'm seeing on the dash. She didn't like the speed limited tune option I was given by Travis at Snail.