rhino6303

I wouldn't use my harbor freight torque wrench on engine internals. I use it for suspension and such. You'll also need to be able to do low torque for things like valve covers and such. My HF can't do the low torque stuff well.

I believe your equation should have (x/50) instead of just x.

I think that is where the brake booster vacuum line connects.

What is your measured load? I'd really like to see a WOT log because I have similar mods but haven't been on a dyno. Thanks.

Sorry for the poor quality. These are the pictures I was able to grab. Hopefully these will suffice. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160517/f06b49e949e98b1b9d113eb56080fc04.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq356/rhino6303/14635295706992.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq356/rhino6303/20160517_170132_1.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq356/rhino6303/tmpPhoto.jpg

You can make that fairly easy with some pipe, a threaded rod, a large fender washer and threaded couplers. I made one to replace ball joints in my wife's OBS. It was simple with the tool. I didn't need it for the LGT; my ball joints practically fell out when I hit them with the fork. Edit: Here is the link with instructions. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=118445

It wasn't me. I pasted from the nasioc thread. I really might buy this now because I have these wheels though.

These can be fitted with 2011-2014 wrx wheels. From the nasioc thread: "On that note. I managed to get them to fit under 2011 wrx wheels which are 17x8 53 offset. "NOTE:SHAVED DOWN THE CALIPER 3MM ON TOP TO CLEAR BARROW" :D:D I had to remove material 1" wide down the valley of the caliper separation. If you look closely into the barrow you can see markings where I tested the wheel rotation around the caliper. Since the barrow is not true the contact points were not just in the center line."

Nope. 5MT.

I just returned a set of new axles. I needed them in a rush and, as usual, they vibrated terribly. The outer joint was super loose and rattled bad. I rebooted my oem axles and have no more vibrations.

In their install guide they say you can use the tap or use a smaller bolt with nut if you don't want to change your knuckle.

More pictures. Top of connector (leave alone): http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/b18f48b8c14f97af7a23eb5ddeab7e00.jpg Bottom of connector (cut off piece shown): http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/dc212c40d76356c9f5be4fee0c086202.jpg

I'll get pictures today.

I know I said it wouldn't but now I change my mind... I modeled my own 3 prong connector using autodesk inventor and then printed a rough draft. I then compared the purchased version to my printed version and to my actual tgv sensor. The overall dimensions are nearly identical but the actual tgv has a few more "bells and whistles" on the exterior. How does one get the purchased version to fit? It's really simple; it's so stupid that I didn't notice it before. You just cut one little part off of the bottom and then the connector will fit right in! Unfortunately it will not "snap" into place due to the previously mentioned "bells and whistles". The connector is snug though and doesn't appear as if it will magically dosconnect. Picture for proof: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/06c7e3704280ad68647d9bf0fe5cf908.jpg

Looks like a no go for any 17s without a spacer. Was reading through their facebook page and saw a customer who said it won't even clear 04 sti bbs wheels.

I contacted XRP last summer regarding their filters because mine was damaged. They actually told me the filter I was using (same as V2) was too fine for this application and a larger micron filter should be used prior to this filter to catch larger particles first. The 10 micron filter becomes clogged far too easily and will create excessive pressure at the filter. They also suggested I use the brown oring in oil applications. Again, these words are from an engineer xrp and are not mine. Having said that, I still use the 10 micron filter made by xrp on my car.

Unfortunately, no. Back to the drawing board for me too.

Today I purchased what I think is a plug and play solution to the tgv female connector for a clean install. I believe turkeylord discovered this a while ago. I will report back once this arrives and whether it actually fits. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_110/products_id/2107

Got it. I kind of thought you might have boost control disabled.

Do you mean 3.2 g/rev as in load? I'm really surprised you got away without changing your wastegate and turbo dynamics in the tune.

The threads next to the sheet metal piece on the head.

A very easy and cheap way to make a copper heatshield is to go to a home improvement store and buy a small section of 1" ID copper pipe and then cut, fold and drill the hole for the sensor.

Has anyone seen Cobb's new "fix" posted on nasioc? Essentially they tee in the fpr to the bpv hose rather than the plenum itself so all cylinders are utilized in the vacuum signal.

Really? http://ae64.com/i88FRharness.htm

I used to use my 10" Windows 7 laptop to do that...until I bought the openport 2.0. Now I just use microSD logging all of the time. It is so much easier than anything I've done before.