rhino6303

Where did you get the b8s and how much? They always seem to be backordered when I look.

I'm gonna bump this back. Dropped price of center diff package. Need it gone.

Either bring a trailer or partout would most likely net highest return for you.

1. Buy an air pump delete kit to replace the metal pipe on your new cylinder head. 2. Use the intake manifold, tgvs, and side feed injectors from your old engine. 3. The turbo oil feed setup is different for D25/W25 heads than B25 heads. You can swap your B25 setup over and plug the top port. See the following images in this pdf to help visualize the differences. Your heads have either type B or type C. https://www.iagperformance.com/content/instructions/IAG/IAG-ENG-2072/AVCS-Turbo-Oil-Feed-Line-BB-Turbo.pdf 4. If you swap the intake and side feed inector setup over, you shouldn't need a retune. Your new CR will be slightly higher and a retune would help but in general you should be good.

What does the wiring harness look like that connects to the alternator? It should have a green 3 pin connector that plugs into the alternator. Have you checked the fuse to the alternator? Should be 7.5A in the engine bay fuse box. Also, check grounds and power cables at the battery and other spots.

Yes. Those pins. Pop off the cover, remove the pcb and then refloe the solder. I'll take a picture and post it.

The pins for the connector on the pcb side. I think you used a clock display from a junkyard, correct? That may still have the same issue. In fact, it may be worse by sitting out in weather changes year round.

I believe I finally found a real culprit to this problem. My '09 Tribeca started having the same err fault in the lcd info/radio screen. Took the screen apart to see the terminals soldered to the board were slightly corroded and looked brittle. I took my soldering iron and reflowed them. Happy to report that the err went away immediately and hasn't returned in over a month. On the '05 LGT, I pulled the mpg display and saw two things: 1. The pins for the connector are extremely long for no real reason. 2. The solder looked the same as the '09, brittle and corroded. I also did a reflow on those. Unfortunately I can't test it since my car is torn apart still but I'm guessing this is the real issue for the err.

Your alternator could have a bad diode and be leaking ac voltage. It's a fairly simple test. In theory, the ac signal could be screwing up the crank signal causing misfires and such. https://youtu.be/1c8uD1C6WNk?si=kfd-ZCnT-t1VqrfD

The motor is jacked up pretty far in that photo. You can see the base of the motor mount threads.

Did you check the terminal connections at the battery? I had that happen to me before exactly. All power fine but no crank or click from the starter. Turns out my negative cable was breaking off the battery post connection.

It's the wiring. Here is the diagram for troubleshooting.

Same thing happened to me several years ago. Dealer I purchased from accepted the return and I got a new one. That damage isn't bad. If you can't get it replaced without a hassle, it would be fine with a new dowel pin. The damage isn't in a critical area and it doesn't look like it protrudes out towards the sealing surface.

Subaru part number 30502AA160.

Long time but the bearing doesn't look like it will fit. It's smaller diameter than an oem bearing. I stopped searching. There are a few others that seem like they'd fit but I lost interest searching. Heck, I don't even use the tsk kit, lol.

Check the fan connections and relay. The connection can sometimes look clipped but not be seated fully. Easy relay check is to swap with another relay. Turn the a/c on coldest setting and as soon as the compressor kicks on the fan should too.

Find a local auto body supply store. They'll most likely mix paint and put it in a spray can. I've done it several times with good results.

I can't remember if the egt on the 2005 has threads like that. The egt connector is the one you are holding. The other connector is the PCV "dummy" connector. It has a jumper plug in it to close the curcuit.

http://ae64.com/Legacy-pinout.htm

Wire them to the orange illumination wire from the radio.

05-06 used low beams as DRL. 07-09 use high beam as DRL. Anyone who has done a HID retrofit for 05-06 generally removes drl so the ballasts don't burn out prematurely.

Just use a come along to get the car on the trailer.

PM sent.

I re-lapped my valves, installed new valve stem seals and manley springs on my cylinder heads. Next week I plan to blueprint the block.

Sounds like a boost leak.