rhino6303

Can you post pictures please?

Lots of info here.

https://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 This might work. I'm unfamiliar with the wiring for the current generation but this should be able to inerceot the signal directly before the cluster and then change the value at the cluster. I have one on my lifted Impreza and it works great.

https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter/ I think this solution would work best.

Bolted on the back of the left TGV is an aluminum post with two ground wires bolted to it.

This is partially correct/incorrect. Open loop (uses maps and minimal sensors for fueling) is used at cold start and under any "hard" acceleration (several factors met in ecu). Closed loop is alway on once engine is warm (uses oxygen sensors, etc for fueling). This quote is from a thread on the outback forums to be a little more specific: Fueling on these cars starts with the ECM knowing where TDC is. Then it relies on the cam position to manage injector timing. The injector pulse is determined by TDC, Cam position and the AF sensor feedback at any rpm. The cam sensor is affective from start up. Higher RPM utilizes the AVCS system to help the car breath better and in conjunction the spark and fuel injector timing is altered based on feedback from several sensors listed below. CKP CMP MAF IAT MAP ECT AF Sensor(s) Rear O2 Sensor(s) Knock Sensor(s)

That actually doesn't do anything. The male side is just a jumper pin. You can just connect the two wires together and all will be well.

I think the ones for the injector are these: 16698AA050 16698AA060

The website doesn't have correct pricing. I paid $615 total in 2020 for the clutch kit (no flywheel).

I use the exedy flywheel. I have less than 15k on the setup since I haven't driven the car in over a year (haven't started/finished the engine build).

I have a zf design full metallic clutch. Reach out to them with and talk and they'll give a recommendation. It was very affordable as well.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=43568262#post43568262

Can you take a picture of your main engine harness connector by the right side (passenger) firewall? If the connector isn't seated properly, you'll get issues. Can you take a picture of the rear left tgv (driver side)? There should be two main grounds attached to an aluminum post. If these are gone or not attached you'll get issues.

I quickly scanned over this again...did you check the main fuses in the engine compartment (the big ones with clear plastic over the top)?

Whatever you do, be sure to replace the torx+ with oem hex.

Are the test connectors plugged in?

Need more context here...units? Measuring resistance in ohms or just continuity? 0.8 ohms? 0.8kohms? Are you just using the continuity setting?

I'll take the iag aos. Sending a PM.

Yeah. That appears to just be an aluminum shaft pressed in. I imagine is was an interference fit or has some loctite so a little heat should help.

Yeah. New one is tokyo roki again instead of honeywell. You can get them at walmart now. It's a bit more expensive but easy to get on demand.

15208AA15A is what I like to use.

Pictures?

Not many OS tuners left due to emissions crackdowns. There are two main reasons tgv deletes exist: 1. They were thought to limit airflow/horsepower. 2. The bigger reason is to free up two 5V signals for the ECU to use additional sensors (oil pressure/wideeband afr/etc).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116069873419 You could message this seller and see if they would remove the tgvs from the intake manifold here.

These are long gone...