BarManBean

I have that cracked piston. Can be used as supporting evidence if needed

You are making great progress, keep it up. Remind me--you are doing all of this because of a misfire and finding a hairline crack on a piston face?

Mine were pretty much the same. I think a good solid bit does the job well.

Might be cool. Keep in mind that it will throw a CEL if it's not seeing appropriate temps for exhaust gasses, so just make sure you turn that off in your tune.

Do you have a GOOD bit for removing the cam bolts? I believe that's the key.

Resistor mod for the EGT Edit: for this^ I have a handful of EGT sensor connectors that I've clipped off over the years. You can use them to solder in a resistor using the pigtails, heat wrap and make it nice and clean, and they you just plug the new resistor "dongle" into the EGT sensor on the car. Makes it clean and easy.

:lol:

You aren't understanding for some reason. Using two tools of your choice that comes in a hex shaped variety and also fits the current cam bolts (i recommend to allen wrenches, or one allen wrench plus a breaker bar with a hex bit installed), hold the cams in place. Using an extra set of hands (or bracing the tools so the cams don't spin, REMOVE the existing c-clamp or whatever you have in place. Now the cams are free to spin, EXCEPT that you are holding them in place with hex-shaped tools, right? Now slowly move hex-shaped tool such that one sprocket rotates and removes the load--if you hit resistance of any kind, go back to timing mark and start with other sprocket. After the load is removed from one cam by rotating that sprocket, do the same with the other sprocket. Done. Now figure out a way to hold your sprockets in place while you loose the cam bolts.

Free way: let 'em snap shut and carry on. (don't do that if you can help it, but that's exactly what happened when I was working and the consensus is that it's not really an issue)

You need two allen keys of the same size, for example. One for each pulley. Then remove the c-clamp. Then slowly release tension on both sprockets by rotating the allen keys individually. Make sense?

The bolts are still in there right? Just use a hex socket / allen key, engage both pulleys, remove whatever you have holding them in place, and then slowly rotate one to unloaded position and then the other. A clutch slave cylinder? I don't have one of those, someone asked me the other day.

Also, let me know what sized bucket you might need to adjust valve lash. I might be able to help out with the right size.

Dipstick tube has a 10mm bolt on the top of the block and then you just pull it out. It just has a double oring that "holds" it into the oil pan.

My new setup will be a JMP custom 16g, lightly PnP'ed, with all supporting bolt ons. I expect to see 320 no problem, with torque being much higher. I think if you go with something around there, that you could have some serious spool and a nice power band. I'll post up a dyno sheet if I end up doing a dyno tune. Can you run e85? If so, the difference between 320 and 370 is probably just a fuel / map change away.

^^Not the worst idea. Or even just say that if upon inspection that it's determined that oiling was what caused failure that the turbo won't be warrantied. I'd also make the extra parts (OCVs and lines) only a recommendation to prevent / reducing any sort of oiling issue. Making them mandatory for a warranty seems silly if oiling issues will deny warranty anyway (not arguing that you need to cover this, but no sense in someone being forced to by $400 worth of parts).

I understand that. What what is the formula to account for measuring differences based on temperature? There would be a different formula for every single part due to mass and material differences. Sounds a bit ridiculous for a DIY build (impossible). In a temperature / humidity controlled factory that pumps out motors? Sure, make everything the same. But honestly I don't see how you could possibly negate / account for temp / humidity differences in an at-home build. Unless I'm missing something? I agree 100% that the biggest factor is the user. There is a learned skill in properly using feeler gauges and a micrometer.

I understand that temp changes have an effect, but are you guys running things through a formula when taking measurements or something? Plus, you are talking about a couple degrees vs a couple hundred degree difference between a cold motor and one at operating temp.

I have a great condition oil cooler if you decide you're interested. I grabbed it from underdog a while back and it has sat on a shelf. IIRC he installed it but never ran it.

All the "preventative" stuff is also contributing to a more complicated system with additional points for potential failure. When everything is working you can have a powerful car that takes abuse like a champ, but if something isn't working quite right...

This. I'm a 100% armchair quarterback when it comes to racing, but honestly it just comes down to "pay to play." Sorry to hear the motor went, but yeah it's time (or well past time) to purpose build a motor for what you intend to do with it. Looking forward to following along as you move forward. Who is tuning the car? Are they providing tunes meant for extended / elevated abuse?

I have some CDI torque wrenches. Same folks that make snap-on I believe. They are nice. I have this one for the little stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2502MRPH-Adjustable-250-Inch-Pounds/dp/B001VXRYG8 And then the 1/2" version that covers 30-250 ft/lbs. Check jet.com for pricing too. When I ordered the little one recently I think it was cheapest there.

I have installed the freerangeracing kit also, and ended up with a number of EXTRA larger hoses that I have no idea where they go. I have a bunch of vacuum line left also, but that's no biggie--I had some silicone in there already that I didn't bother replacing.

I went with ultra grey when I installed my cam baskets, used "the right stuff" for the valve covers. The amount of RTV to use on the cam baskets is practically nothing. Be careful there. I think you pretty much have to spread it out, no way you can get a "bead" small enough to work without clogging things up.

Not sure what all the "oiling issue" talk is. There is an issue, it's pretty straight forward--banjo bolt screens get clogged over time with improper maintenance. Remove of the banjo screen(s) and addition of another inline filter should solve the issue. Also, 1% of VF40 cores were rebuildable? BNR used to buy (or do core rebate, I can't remember) VF40 cores, no? Are you saying that only 1 in a 100 was usable? That sounds ridiculous. Bryan at BNR has treated me well. I also have run a BNR 16g for several thousand miles with no issues. But the warranty truly seems lacking, especially when people invest good money to follow requirements (oil line kit and OCVs to the tune of ~$400 or so?) and then get denied.

Yup, replied to your PM also. For those that have placed orders most recently, I have seriously sucked at getting things out quickly as of late. I just got my saw back from my dad to get things moving again and should have all orders filled in the next few days.