MoleMan

Just tell them the issues you are having. I would not mention anything related to codes since no codes are present at all. It’s actually not common at all. Having three Subarus none of them have ever displayed any shaking. Now my daily driver Honda did shake and had some engine rattle but it just turned out to be the trans mount and some engine mounts which is a common issue on those cars. I’m guessing it may just be an engine mount or it could be a belt tensioner as I had that issue a few years back with the Honda and had rattling and shaking in the car. Now that is assuming your car is a four cylinder engine. Can you please give more details of what year and engine your car has please? If you are unsure of the engine it would have a very distinct 3.6, 3.0, or 2.5 GT badge on the passenger rear trunk under the word Legacy. If you don’t see that then it’s safe so say it’s a four cylinder. But the year as mentioned is a great help.

I would not trust the MPG readout at all. I generally fill up the car use the tank then calculate by hand. But surprisingly the Subarus are fairly accurate to about a half a gallon and not off by a few MPGs like other cars. But under 13 MPG is pretty bad. If I recall this was an issue when the Ascent came out as well with a lot of complaints of sub 20s MPGs. I am thinking a possible oil change and verify that it’s synthetic may be the answer. But agrees with others bring it back to the dealership but they will probably say it’s normal etc... if the problem persists keep bringing it in. And about the CVT Subarus CVT really likes slow take offs. It really sucks when you try to go like in a merge situation and the car won’t move. But then again I bought my 3.6 just to coast and drive slow. I have other cars for fast fun. It’s still loads better then the Nissan CVT however which is more like a broken vacuum cleaner. Just a funny comparative my 2006 3/4 ton Dodge Diesel with a controller and exhaust does not even get 13 MPG pulling a 27 foot toy hauler through the mountains.

Just a thought. I had to replace my drivers side axle seal on my Daily 8th Civic a few months back. As it is sorta. A pain to do in a driveway I let my mechanic just do the repair and paid him. He said it was better to replace both sides when doing this repair with new seals so that’s what I did. It was like $28 bucks in parts from Honda and about two hours of labor well spent. By researching the repair I can set you were doing it correct. However did you use non OEM parts to complete the repair by chance? Seems like a lot of repairs these days with aftermarket parts are causing more problems then they are worth especially with such an inexpensive part.

This brings up fond memories of growing up in Miami and driving through the rainstorms with the high water. I actually lost a A3 VW Golf from hydrolock from driving in heavy rains. So back to the issue. I noticed when I spray water from my hose while washing my 6th gen the drain holes tend to be in the back of the engine bay closest to where the backside of the front wheels are located. You could try to put the car up on ramps and then spray water on the car or have someone spray water on the front of the car to find the drain holes and see if they are clogged etc... however as ammcinnis has referenced a clogged drain normally does not set off a CEL. In my case with my Infiniti the drain holes on the battery tray were clogged causing the main wiring loom that someone thought at Nissan was a great idea to cause shorting etc.. problem was solved when I removed the battery and tray only to find the real culprit which was debris buildup from a tree all lodged in and the car was fine after that. You could try to remove the battery and look under the tray and see if you have any debris that’s maybe causing a clog. Even if that is not the issue I was going to suggest pulling the negative and positive cables and letting the computer reset itself and see if that fixes the issue.

Just throwing this in. Winter blend is upon us. Maybe run a bottle of Techron and fill up with ethanol free and see what it does before chasing issues. It can’t hurt. Yesterday My daily was hesitant to start in 7 degrees F and did smell like fuel for the first few highway miles. My bet is still on a bad tank of gas. Tends to run like crap for a month after they switch from summer to winter blend and then back in the summer. Once again try filling up and use a fuel cleaner like Techron concentrate. If you have the same issue or are having the same issue by mid tank then start chasing down the gremlin..

If you find OEM seats after 2005 its pretty much Plug and Play.

So that solved the plug question. What about the replacement fuel pump and the MAF? OEM from the dealer or aftermarket? Any parts bought online that have the Subaru name yet are sold by a reseller not an Authorized dealer? Just asking not to harp on you but its something I see alot when buying replacement parts for my Honda is fake parts that look identical to OEM but the packaging is just off slightly so they look authentic.

Aftermarket parts especially body parts are always a crap fit or have some issue. I would have bought a used OEM bumper cover to have the fitment perfect. As for how the fitment should be I cannot really tell as I just tried to get a Birdseye on my 08 and could not see the fitment that well.

If the MAF was having an issue it should in theory throw a code. But good point as the OP stated they replaced the MAF it could just be a cheap replacement and causing the issue. I have personally seen a lot of Non-OEM MAFs cause the exact issues the OP is having. I rarely use non oem parts anymore. In most cases they are the same price if not cheaper then some aftermarket brand. Sometimes however you pay through the nose for a part. But for me I do it right the first time instead of having to do it again which I have done in the past.

Correct. What bothers me more is when I look at a great example of a GT with low miles and walk up to it and they have it listed as manual and it’s an Auto. Sorta of like a WRX with the CVT but the way I look at is someone will buy it.

Eh.. I have had really bad fitment issues with Mishimoto products in my Infiniti. It seems to be very common with the brand on the 350s,370s, and Infiniti’s regardless of what part is being replaced. Better options exist from Other companies. If you are not tracking or racing the car hard why go through the expense? I would start with an Cobb Accessport first and then a bigger turbo and then an exhaust. You can always do an air intake as well. Better options exist besides my recommended SPT one as the fitment is perfect. And exhaust wise can’t go wrong with an SPT as well but harder to find right now. But the Invidia ones are also great and fit me to is perfect. Now the huge question is if you want test pipes which would give you about ten to fifteen more horse but depending on the state you live in emissions could be an issue.

I never consider a 05 when I look at GTs. In fact always forget they are the only ones of the GTs that came with cloth. I could not remember if the Spec B seats were the same as a Limited or 3.0R.

As far as the plugs you are spot on with the Platinum so that’s correct so I would not change that. As far as your fuel filter/pump I was thinking after I posted my prior response that could be the issue. I believe that part is a complete assembly only and I would just change out the entire part and not try to fiddle with just a certain component of the part. I had to change out a fuel pump a few years back in my daily Honda and I was thinking to myself the whole time I just paid $300 bucks for an entire assembly when I could have changed the filter for $20 bucks or less if the part was not integrated into the assembly. But then again any car Imhave had from 2006 and onward fuel filters are a whole assembly. Just another money grab from the manufacturer but nothing you can do about it. Personally I would not deal with aftermarket pumps and just pay the dealer what they want for the part. Also thinking of something. Did you buy the plugs from a reputable shop? A lot of fake NGK and Denso plugs are being sold online that could produce an issue. Just an afterthought.

As far as the head gasket I could not tell you. It’s a common issue on the EJ25s. The EJ20 I would assume would have the same issue however if you are not seeing any signs of a head gasket needing to be replaced I would not worry about it right now. At the KMs the car has it’s pretty doubtful it would need a replacement yet. If you do need a replacement in the future the EJ25 head gasket job from a dealer is in the $750 to $900 range and probably cheaper at a independent shop. And that price will vary that’s just in my area. As far as the Manual vs Auto it’s really driver preference. I have both and in the snow I prefer the manual because it’s locked 50/50 all the time unlike the Auto. So it gives a slight edge traction wise. However the Auto does not do bad either. I just prefer manual when I can get it and in the states getting a new or even used manual car is getting very hard to find. On my sixth gen 3.6 Inhad to cave and settle for a CVT which is slow as beans but if you are not racing around it’s ok. As far as problems I would say rare to none of you keep the fluid changed at the proper intervals. As far as SI I have it in my 3.0 but I think it was limited to just the 3.0,GT, and Spec B.

Now here’s the question. What kind of plugs did you use? The fourth Gens hate Iridium plugs so that could be the culprit. Every time I change out my plugs someone always to be in the store complaining about their fourth gen GT or other model running like crap after they sold them iridium plugs. Or the other culprit is the injectors. But those generally will throw a code of something is an issue. By chance where do you live? Could be running like crap because of the winter blend fuel. An easy fix would be grab some Techron concentrate for six bucks and go fill up with ethanol free and see if you still have the same issue. And another idea and just taking a shot in the dark. Who changed the oil last? You or some shop? It could be overfilled and that could be a factor. I know when I was a newb I overfilled my car by a quart or so and it did exactly what you were describing. Also any change in oil brand or quality(Like going to high mileage) sometimes does this. I am very I tune to how oil effects all my cars and Mobil 1 regular seems to be the best. The more you go up in the chain of oil the more robust the add pack is and can bog down the engine and make it feel like you have an issue. In fact to be honest last oil change I switched to Castro’s Edge EP and my daily Honda Civic did EXACTLY what you car is doing. Switched it back to M1 and no issues at all. Just throwing ideas that may help since the point is to get the car working quickly.

TY I missed that little tidbit. Well at least I made my stupid mistake of the day here and not a company wide email at work!

Having lived in Europe for four years I would buy that car here with only 56,000 KMs on it. We don’t have the 2 liter Engines on the 4th gens here in the U.S. But it seems like the former owner did very good maintenance and The can include proof of the timing belt being done I am assuming as well? Even of the timing belt needed to be changed the KMs for the year are very hard to beat. Any major pitfalls would be the timing belt being the major one. And the only other issue I have ever had was the wheel bearings and those failed on both my 06 and 08 4th gen. Other then that the car should really be solid. The only downside is that it’s an Automatic but that’s not a deal breaker at all. I actually prefer my 5 speed more then the Auto in my 4th gen. But the 08 has Si drive so it makes up somewhat. I am curious does the car you are looking at have Si drive by chance? I am unsure what besides the GT and 3 liter came with that feature in the fourth gen.

Curious how many miles your 3 liter has on it? Mine is currently sitting at 149,000 with zero issues. But I parked it a few years ago and stopped driving it daily and maybe drive it a few times a month or so.

Any seats from a 4th Gen will fit as long as you get the leather seats as they have all the wiring you need for the heater and airbags. The Outback seats will also fit without issue as I know parts searching for just Leggy seats may pose its challenges. Just a tip try to buy local as the seats are heavy and expensive to ship LTL and when you do get them give them a good cleaning and creaming while they are out you will yield fantastic results. On a side note good buy as in my area when Spec Bs come up for sale they are either low mileage and super high priced or have been neglected and beat to hell.

I think you did it right. If the car is financed most likely the case of your WRX all you do is exactly what you did. Bring the title to the DMV so a reissue of the title can be made so no leans are in the DMV system. In this case you did everything right as the car as ammcinnis has said it’s looked at like a used car purchase since you are buying the vehicle from an entity. When it’s financed you have already did that step that’s the difference.

For me it was only the 90 day timeframe simply because I don’t drive my Leggy or the Camry in question daily and more like two week spurts for one day or so. To give you an example last time I drove my sixth gen 3.6 was last month. The Camrys unit was the upgraded Denso unit with the bigger screen and it had the same issues as you are describing. Once the Bluetooth connection started to get wonky I just reset the bluetooth on the phone and it was fine. However now you are having the same issue on the Fujitsu unit which tells me it’s a Bluetooth issue to some extent. But before we solely blame the car lol I can say I am having major issues with Apple products as far as my profession with integration. If it gets worse you could always swap the head unit if it’s a pain to keep resetting the Bluetooth.

Let me put it this way. To put a swapped LS2 in a Leggy is possible but it will cost more then the car is worth. Not saying it would not be cool however as that’s a swap I personally have not seen before. I have seen LS7s and 302s in Miatas as well as a buddy did an LA2 swap on his RX8 and that car is quick. I say if you want more power just go find a wrecked GT take the trans and other bits you need for the manual swap and just go with a bigger turbo etc and you will probably make the same power gains if not be in the ballpark of the LS2 swap.

I had the same issue with my Camry when I had it and I had the upgraded Denso unit with the bigger display. It did the same thing on Android as well as my wife’s iPhone in about 90 day intervals. Once the phone was unpaired and paired again the problem was nonexistent for another three months. I really don’t think it’s a head unit issue rather then a Bluetooth issue designed to happen at certain time intervals. Apple can have its issues as we are all aware but in this case if it was an issue it would be more widespread across multiple car brands and we are not seeing that here.

Shitty tires can be dealt with. Plus no need to go out and buy a set of $700 tires if you have a set with full or near full tread right now. As far as the exhaust it could be something with the muffler or something that connects the muffler to the pipe such as a clamp etc.. chances is if it’s a New England car and the salt has gotten to the underside especially the muffler that’s normally the first thing to start rusting. I know when I wash my cars if they have been on plowed roads where I know their has been brine solution along with salt I generally wash the underside really good but a lot of people tend to forget the mufflers and even an auto wash will not get those. As far as the dealer they are just looking for mechanical faults quickly such as codes and this problem may not have been an issue when they looked at the car initially. I would say maybe have someone get into the drivers seat and hit the accelerator pedal while you are underneath the mufflers while the car is in park. Warm the car up first to operational temp and listen for the rattle.

You would be surprised if I put a set of Nanking tires on and told you to drive 500 miles and then put a set of Michelin or Continentals on and told you to drive another 500 miles. Dealers are going to put the cheapest tires on they can especially independent ones. I have had brand new sets of tires be loud as hell. All I can say at this point is take it to a shop and have them put a scope on the wheel bearings and see if that’s the issue. Make an emphasis on the wheel bearings. Since you came from a 16 we know it’s not the CVT making noise at all. Car is not throwing any codes so we know it’s now engine related. The sound is not a heat shield. Only three options left really. A bad wheel bearing or bearings, bad tires, or something in the exhaust. However just gonna throw this out. If the CVT fluid change was done wrong and is underfilled or overfilled could it make this type of noise?