MoleMan

Ok. In a nutshell. I avoid DI engines like the plague. You will always have carbon build up because the fuel does not get to the piston it ignites before. While technically more efficient it creates the carbon build up issue. An acception to this for my is the Toyota 4DS system. You have DI and Port Injection so you don't get the carbon build up issues. Now the issue here is most all manufactures are going to DI. To me that is gonna cause a lot of engine replacements after the ten year mark. To your question. No. No way to prevent the carbon build up in a DI engines. Once again the fuel is not igniting as normal in the cylinder. It's igniting at the top of the cylinder and not hitting the piston. It basically ignites when the injector sprays the fuel in a more efficient way. So regardless of fuel grade used it will still keep building after time. Yeah you can use certain chemicals to remove the carbon. But this generally involves putting the chemicals into the spark plug holes(which is a pain in the rear on boxer engine) and doing a "soak" overnight etc.. several videos of this are on YouTube. So you can see for yourself. Most are being done on Civics which are Port Injection but still a few DI videos are to be found. A catch can will do nothing to prevent carbon build up. As far as your fuel question. Remember Santa Fe will have lower octane then Houston due to the altitude difference. Most Subarus run fine on regular gas. In fact I have used 91 ethanol free, 91 regular, and plan crap gas in my 3.6. results all the same as far as mileage. And yes 91 is the highest grade due to the altitude I live at. This would be equivalent to 93 in Texas. Only exception is on the Turbos which I believe need premium. I would do some research especially on DI more. You will see that some manufacturers have found the problem and have tried to fix it or make the carbon build up better. While others manufacturers just go a step further and put a port inject in to alleviate the issue all together(Toyota). Now Subaru being partially owned by Toyota I would hope would have something similar to 4DS but I am not familiar or can speak for it as I simply do not know on the 7th gens. Maybe someone can chime in on that.

Once again dude. If it's such an issue. Just sell your car and get something that is not an connected to anything. A forth Gen has nothing except for NAV. Only person that can tell you if your insurance company used this data if in fact it was sold to them is your insurance company. I get your point. But nobody can tell you what's going on other then your insurance company and it's doubtful they will be truthful. If you want push the issue with Subaru I doubt anyone Frontline at Subaru will know the answer or even care. Once again in your own words "they may have collected my data according to their policys" key words here are "may have". In comparison do you think Credit Card companies do not do the same thing? Just think on that for a min. These days everything is tracked to a degree. But maybe call your insurance guy. If any date got sold from your car to them he/she may tell you. Or they will probably just tell you what you wanna hear to get you out the door. Once again I get the point. But if it's such a huge bother just sell the car and get something older where it won't be a worry. And I am not being an asshole just saying if I was so worried that's what I would do.

Montana and Washington I'll give you Montana as I drive in Montana quite frequent. Eastern Idaho and Wyoming here. Mostly SW Wyoming. I used to live in Vancouver WA so as you know when that ice comes it's bad.. The ICE X are good as I have run two sets of them. They do have a mileage warranty and are the only snow tire to do that. For me I found the Blizzacks wonderful. But the cheapo GT studded are the ones I have been using on my daily to cross the sisters twice a day from Rock Springs to Evanston and the pass from Rock Springs to Lander two days a week. As I said DWS are the only A/S tires I drive on. Great mix. The Michelin AS4 or any Michelin to me the rubber compound is just to hard. That's just me. As for the Moogs they are good. I actually have a full set of Moogs sitting in a box brand new for my G37. They are beefy. About half the price of Whiteline. If you have light clunks it's probably just the Billsteins and your setup. They can be a bit stiff at times and will give that sound. If it's light it's prob not a LCA but ya never know

Dude, You are really making a mountain out of a molehill. If you a re so worried about it sell the car and get something pre Starlink. They dont have your data. You never signed up for a subscription. Besides that you never signed anything. Then let's take it a step further. Our care can't even connect to the Starlink system at this point in time. Just saying if you are so worried about it then get something older and then you don't need to stress. To be honest your rates will rise eventually. We are all in this same boat here. Remember when a king size candy bar was $1.50 at Walmart? Now we all need to pay almost three bucks if we want one. Everyone is getting in on the inflation gravy train. Insurance rates have raised about twenty percent. Gotta remember new cars have higher parts prices if they need to be fixed. All the new EVs are totaled if they get into an accident. So you need to look at it this way. You may never have an accident and are a great driver. How many asshats do you see on the roadway regardless of age driving aggressively and speeding? We are all paying for them when they crash the cars. Not trying to be an asshole here. Just saying I would not stress about anything. If so worried talk to you insurance guy and ask him straight up what's going on. Once again I have connected cars to various systems. My insurance has not said one time to me that I was speeding or this or that. Just think you are stressing for nothing. Sorta reminds me of a guy I worked with. Very concerned as to why the credit card company was sharing his "data" to the credit reporting agencys. Just saying..... Go have a beer and think of how to change spark plugs on the 3.6 without wanting to murder the engineer who thought it was a good idea with the clearance.

I got ya. No worries. I would buy the matching bar set and endlinks. That will solve 90 percent of what you are looking for. The strut tower brace will help with the handling a bit more by giving you a little more stiffness. But it's hard to notice unless pushed. The sways you can feel the difference instantly. I believe Cusco also has additional bracing. But at that point it's more for racing and not the street. OEM sways are just that. I do not think their is a difference in part numbers on that specific part. So the base Leggy has the same sways as a GT. The Spec B may have a different size but I would say it's probably the same as a normal Leggy. As I have two 4th gens and my 3.0 R had the same size rear sway as my 2.5i I would say it's a Standardized part. Of course you can look up the info in a parts guide. But it's all about the difference from stock to aftermarket. In this case the aftermarket bar is better as it's bigger MM wise. You can always call up Whiteline as they can tell you the specs vs OEM. I will tell you one thing. Don't do 28 MM in the front. It will knock on the subframe when turning as it's to big. Heres the funny thing on Whiteline. Now it's all made in the USA. Production got switched a while back. Guess it's cheaper to make here then in Australia.

I have DWSs on all my cars. Have ran them for ten plus years. Here's the thing. They are only good in about two inches of snow or less. In wet they are amazing. If you almost wrapped your car around a jersey barrier they you were going to fast for conditions. One other thing is once the DWS line gets below 4/32 of tread go to a tire shop and get a new set. They will prorate you as well. The traction is gone by that time and only a D is remaining. And besides that they will scream at you. I live in an snow area. Besides that it can get to -30 on occasion. So now you are dealing with ice under the snow as well that will not melt even with the highway department mix. So In The winter on my dailys I put Blizzacks WS90s or the cheapest studded Snows. In fact state law to have chains or studs over some of the passes. Even then a 6 percent grade crossing over 7500 feet with snow and ice is not a 75 mph fun cake walk. Lucky if you are doing 35. Half the time I tuck in between two semis and follow them for safety. Fun times.

I don't consider Cusco JDM. It's not ricey as they are more pricy as most components I have bought. Quality is excellent. When I hear JDM I am thinking of some cheap "Type R" knockoff eBay part. I even consider Megan Racing parts part of this yet I have bought strut tower braces from them and have had zero issues. What I consider ricey is this. Some base Model Civic with a muffler delete, Type R stickers and VTEC sticker all over the body and a fake hood scoop and huge wing on the back. Not to mention the awful aftermarket taillights and blue bulbs in the headlight housings. And not to forget the red H badge. I just hate the phrase JDM. Yeah of you are rolling with an R34 Skyline I will 100 percent support your JDM as that is a true JDM. A LHD base Impreza is not lol. Just a huge difference between real JDM and fake JDM. And let's face it most people in the JDM world have "fast and furious" style ricers and once again not true JDM imports.

I think you are worried about something you don't need to be worried about. Your rate depends on where you live. Mine went down this year as well. I have driven my 3.6 at triple digit speeds and I have seen no increase. Once again both me and you are not paying for starlink. So why would Subaru waste resources on vehicles that do not have a paid subscription to Starlink? Just saying I think you are worried about something you don't need to be worried about. If it's such a bother find the fuse to the Starlink and pull it.

The last year they will make it will be 2025. They will most likely not offer a Leggy for the 26 MY. This seems right in line with what would normally be a model refresh/new redesign year for most manufacturers.

Don't start with the JDM sway bar stuff. It just always sounds ricey to me. It's like the folks that keep pushing muffler deletes. No offense ment at all Just either put the set from Whiteline or put a Cusco rear bar on. I cannot remember the size specific. But I think the Whiteline set is 26mm rear 27mm front. It is well worth getting the set. If you wanna go further get the Cusco front strut tower brace. Just do it right is what I am saying. Total set up I believe is about $600 or so. But it's been a while since I bought my parts. I think the sways were about $300 the endlinks maybe $100 and the strut tower brace was $250. Of course you don't need to go Cusco on the brace but I think it looks the best. On top of that it's easily removed with the quick releases. If you don't have the funds now I would just buy when able and install. Once again you could just go with a bigger rear sway but I have personally found the car tighter when the sways are more matched. My setup is Whiteline front and rear sways with Whiteline endlinks and a Cusco strut tower brace. Very little body roll. Can still take tighter canyon curves at 70 without issue. If you are knocking it could be a LCA bushing or a link. Is the knocking coming from the Billsteins? Or is it more below? If you are getting an alignment they should pick up on a bad LCA bushing. But some don't.

Just search for it on Google. It comes up plain as day. The Legacy is not very popular anymore. Sorta like my Lexus GS 350. Great car just sales numbers went away so they cut production all together. I personally think an electric Outback or Crosstrek option would sell like hotcakes.

Key word on this is "connected vehicles" According to Subaru the sixth Gens like ours don't connect to Starlink anymore due to the cell coverage requirements changing. So In our case it's a non issue. I can see seventh Gen owners having issues if they drive like asshats. Anyway insurance rates have rose for everyone. People are driving very aggressive as of recent.

LexisNexis is a credit reporting agency. And most consumers do not even know about them as most credit pulls are done by the "big 3" Selling consumer date will never be on a public reporting service or credit reporting service. You insurance provider is who buys the information. Everyone is raising rates. So they can use anything as an excuse to raise rates up to and including saying your car date says you do 5 over the limit etc so on etc.. Generally you can push it and the will do a soft pull and the rate will always drop because they know issues will happen if the push the date thing. In our cars we have not agreed to anything. I don't pay for starlink or any services so nothing should be tracked. Honestly I only thing 7th Gens may be tracked but IDK. Info know both our Lexus vehicles are not tracked at all. Then again I get the point. But if you are driving like an ass I also agree with insurance raising rates.

Possibly. More mid size sedans are getting cut from lineups. Going all small SUV and hybrid/electric. Toyotas partnership probably plays a huge role in this. Makes me think they will start cutting other lower selling models in segments. I can see the Legacy and the Ascent cut first. They won't touch the Outback, Forrester and Impreza lineup for a bit. Who knows on the crosstreks as they are good selling. WRX will probably stay. But die hard fans are already gone from the brand on the new models. Will be interesting!

Once again. Take it to a gosh darn shop and tell them you have a clunking sound going over bumps. Do not tell them you looked at anything and it's fine etc.. just say I have a clunking sound. Your mechanic is going off what you are saying. The EPS issue does not "clunk" it's more of an annoying rattle. Your issue is a control arm bushing or a broken endlink. That's it. A professional mechanic even gave you advice on this forum. If you choose to keep ignoring the recommendation thats up to you. My 3.6 does not clunk when steering and I have not had the EPS spring replaced. My modded 3.0R does not clunk on steering, my 2.5 does not clunk on steering both of those do not have EPS. And if we want to go further with EPS cars. My two Lexus's don't clunk when steering, my Camry V6 never clunked when I owned it. And my Scion TC does not clunk when steering. Seems to me that your guy cannot even tell the car has a broken suspension component. Or is the reason you are telling him or her that you checked it out and it's fine? Stop with the EPS excuse and take the advice given already dude. Your video exactly sounds like a broken LCA bushing or endlink to me. It will make that sound turning lock to lock. Once again take it somewhere and just tell them you have a clunking sound going over bumps. Stop trying to guess yourself.