MoleMan

Stupid answer coming here. But have you bought a cheap scanner so if the car has the check engine light pop up again you can plug it Into your bod port and get the code for the dealership? A cheap scan tool will run you $20 bucks at any Walmart in the auto section. If the dealer keeps saying no problem and yet a specific code keeps popping up then this is proof and they can pinpoint the issue and not guess.

@ Febreze Mee, Its all good. As far as ANY Michelin being livable thats a discussion for another time. They are just hard as rocks to me. The rubber compound that Michelin uses is just not my thing. As far as balancing comfort and performance thats the tricky part. What works for me may not work for you.

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@ Febreze Mee, The Pilot Sport 4S is a summer tire. Just curious why you are running it in temps less the 28 degrees. And ANY Michelin turns into a block of cement anything colder then 32 degrees this is why I hate Michelins. At least they have the best smoothness on a open highway with no potholes however lol. As far as the Dunlop Signature SPs they are total garbage in any light rain or even light snow. The running joke in the Infiniti forums is how fast owners remove these tires after purchase of their new Q50s and Q60s. Once again not being an ass but I have had both sets of the tires you have mentioned on various cars. Once again the Michelin is great for summer only and sticks like glue once heated up. The Dunlop is really bottom of the mark for any performance tire. Once again I prefer the DWS line from Continental. Personally have driven this tire is upwards of 3 inches of unplowed snow as well as pushed the performance level in multiple modified vehicles. Its a great all around tire and gives the balance between performance, traction, and safety in wet and snowy conditions. As far as the muffler delete I don't get why this is becoming so popular. It really makes any car sound like crap. And it really does not provide anything but to be annoying on the roadway. But to each his own I always say. Every 18 year old kid around here does it. For me I would rather have a good exhaust setup that makes power instead of a muffler delete.

Get a set Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 Plus in 225/45/18s. Both the other tires you are looking at are basically touring tires and give no performance at all. The MXM4 is generally a stock tire for Avalons and Camrys. Its a good smooth tire but once again not a good rounded tire. The DWS will give you everything you want including smoothness if balanced correctly. I personally have been running this series of Continental for the past ten years or so without issue and its the only tire I buy. I also have the same 225/45/18 setup on my 3.0R. As far as performance parts really nothing but suspension components from Cusco and Whiteline. Personally I would shy away from any sort of performance exhaust on this car. Just stay as close to the stock setup as possible.

Multiple dealers have them here. It may be a regional thing where only the top dealers get them to offload. In certain states I think they are not allowed to sell branded title cars yours may be one.

The oil discussion can be hashed out for decades and has been on other oil specific forums lol. In Turbo Cars prefer Rotella. I am a huge M1 advocate for non-turbo cars as I have run that oil for years without issue. The more specialized oils such as redline are also great oils because of the ZDDP pack additives. But only for racing to track days. Stay AWAY from Royal Purple as it’s just crap. Just stick with the Rotella.

Gotcha. Then back to the original assumption it’s a LCA bushing that’s gone.

It’s all about the BOOST! You could always get an accessport for it as well. But the tune should have better settings if it was done right. Still 340 HP is not that much HP. For instance my S4 is running a JB4 tune from Burger Motorsports and puts out a bit over 400 HP and 414 TQ. I say get the car and enjoy it!

I am just looking at the local Subaru Dealers webpage. If it was a Subaru Repurchase they will note that in the description of the car. It will also show up on the car fax report. Carfax lists these cars as “manufacturer buyback/Lemon”. It is a branded title. That’s the huge downside. The brand to me is a huge issue regardless if it was just a radio replacement.

I would say good deal. Here’s some questions. Does the current owner have proof of everything being done such as receipts etc? As we all have seen people say they put this and that in. As far as the performance mods that is easy to check with a visual. Does the car drive like it should with those parts? No issues with the drivability? I know the car is tuned and that sometimes can throw off what to expect sometimes. Is the suspension stock except for the STI springs? I know I had some issues with my fourth gen 3.0R and the Bilsteins blowing I figured I would throw that in since they both use the same suspension to a degree. It’s nothing you can’t fix later with a better setup and it’s something I would not dwell on. Is it a real Spec B? The seats should give this away right off the bat. Sorta like telling a fake STI from a real one. In fact just thought of we do have a Spec B portion on this forum with numbers attached. Hopefully your potential future car is on the list! Would give it a lot of provenance. The exhaust is a great setup. The Borla is generally a great tone. Not annoying like what you would see in a Honda B18 or something. I assume it’s running on stock cats? As far as the dyno numbers seems right where it should be. Of course you could get it retuned and then put on a dyno if you are wanting to chase a specific number as far as HP/TQ is concerned. To me the concern is the parts and the build for the car makes the asking price seem like you should use some caution.

I dont think it’s that. Most of the cars are saying Subaru repurchased them due to “radio concerns” or something like that. It’s not like the STIs and WRXs that were repurchased due a “motor issue” or “transmission issue” where we all know the person went out and hammered the car until it broke and then demanded it be fixed and did it another two times. One huge cause that is popping up is people are using the lemon laws to get out of the loan or lease because they can’t afford the payments etc... but the law does say of the problem is not fixed In three visits or the dealer has the car more then 60 days it can be lemoned. A buyer who is getting into a Turbo XT should be expecting less then the EPA estimates. I know I would.

Very welcome. If you are still under the powertrain warranty Subaru should fix it for free. I would show the Service advisor the TSB. I would agree with you it is a bit annoying at low speeds. To me the car is so quiet you pick up on stupid little noises.

Possible. I know I am starting to see several 2020 Legacy’s in all trim levels getting lemon lawed and popping at local dealerships with only 5K on them. But that could also be due to people making up excuses to get out of a payment they can’t handle.

I think this could be the EPS tension spring issue that has been popping up. TSB 04-17-17R. It has been updated to include up to 2019 model years. Part #34130AL010 If it’s the same clunking I hear at low speeds only this is probably the issue. I just have no desire to fix it as it’s not a huge bother to me. And according to Subaru nothing is wrong with the operation at all.

The assumption was based on the EJ25s problems. Honestly I have not even looked at a four cylinder engine when buying a new or used car since 2006 so I rarely delve in the FB25. I mainly stick to H6s, V6s, and V8s. To be fair my 06 SE Fourth Gen has never had a head gasket issue surprisingly.

Honestly sounds like a control arm. Dealerships are notoriously for not being able to duplicate anything. Subaru Mechanics are generally good as well. Have you taken it to an Independent Subaru shop? Only other thing I can think of is the steering rack but that would not make a clunk just a really bad whining sound. My bet is still on a control arm bushing. Dumb question. When you look at the LCA bushings do you see cracking or tearing in the rubber? the same thing on the end links and damage to the rubber such as cracking etc.... What I love about Subaru dealers sometimes is they don’t nitpick on smaller issues until they become bigger.

I love how you put you have a weak battery. News a great time to upgrade to a group 35 battery and get away from that crap group 25 battery. A lot of others will also suggest the group 34 battery which has a tiny bit better ability then the group 35. Reason I am saying group 35 is that is the exact height and length as stock. The group 34 is wider but its lower height wise. Both will fit on the tray no issues once the cardboard cutout is taken off the battery(assuming you still have one). The only other thing I would check is the head gasket assuming it’s a four cylinder. As far as the plugs I have always had this done at a mechanic/dealer just due to the pain in the ass it is to replace plugs on a boxer engine. Maybe others can chime in on that question. Good luck!

I check my oil level every 250 miles on both my 06 EJ25 as well as on my EZ30 and never have consumed a drop. The 06 was purchased new and driven for six years as a daily before parked. The EZ 30 and 36 are not very prone to oil consumption as the EJ25s however. It seems either the head gasket in this case was not done properly or not done at all causing the loss of oil and issues. I have also found that certain oils will burn off faster then others especially in synthetic. In fact my Infiniti burns about a half to a quart every 3k with Mobil 1 and when I switched to Pennzoil Platinum Ultra(very reluctantly) it does not burn anything with the same viscosity(5w30) I do in this case side with the OP in the decision to look for something else as nothing is guaranteed with a replacement engine especially a used one.

Good tip. I generally use a bottle of Chevron Techron concentrate every three fill ups and add a bottle of Iso-Heat to also minimize water build up. I do not drive my 3.6 a lot and I think this year I have maybe put 320 miles on it. Normally when it’s driven it’s heated up to engine temp and driven to the car wash and back.

Did you do SPL or Whiteline on that kit? I few years back I special ordered a set of SPL end links for my Infiniti. Even with the Hotchkis sways they performed without issue. I have also had really good luck with Whiteline parts for my fourth gen even though I had to go With a Cusco rear sway and a Whiteline one in the front because the front Cusco was knocking on the subframe due to the diameter of the bar(handled great however) I would also agree it’s probably just a control arm which is a common enough issue. I would recommend however doing both control arms at the same time as well as an alignment.

Sorry to hear. Everyone has been driving like idiots recently. Good news is you are not hurt. I would check the radiator support before just thinking it is just a grill. Had a minor encounter with a center island divider about ten years ago and what I though was just a bumper turned out to be a rad support as well. Good luck.

I agree with you. Love the look but it just needs something to the front bumper like a four light kit or something.

Ok I was an idiot and failed to see this was In the 6th gen forum. Please disregard and mention of a “3.0 or 2.5 GT” mention in my original response posting. Only the 3.6R or nothing under the Legacy badging.