MoleMan

It's not your LCA itself. It's just the bushings. The issue is the parts are cheap but the labor is a few hundred dollars. Still cheaper then a new pair of LCAs and an alignment. Go to Whitelines website and see if they have the LCA for your car. They do co e with the ball joint so it's an all in one. I will warn you they bushings will be stiffer so the car will ride a bit more stuff but nothing that would really cause any discomfort. If you went Whiteline it is probably around $300 or so for the parts another 2 hours for labor and maybe $100 for an alignment. Let us know.

I agree. However my concern would be in the higher RPM range say 5k to redline with the CVT. This is why I think we are seeing some CVT failure rates on the WRXs with CVTs. @silverton-simce you are a Subie Mechanic are you seeing or have seen or heard of any WRXs with CVTs having a specific CVT failure? I just have seen five myself and all owners have told he they were getting replaced under warranty. Now to that comme t all the owners also have said they had an access port using the stock tunes from Cobb and they were "flooring it" when the failure occured. Now I will also say I have seen non CVTs also take a shit while being run harder as well.

And every other car in the class performance wise has more power stock and no CVT. To the point of the intake. The Takeda still retains the factory look to a point. So yeah in theory it's better then the K&N kits of old. I have been there and done that and still have a Stillen Gen 3 setup on my G37. Back to performance. A Stock S4 will run rings over the Leggy XT. Then add a JB4 Tune and it's pretty much game over. The issue is comparing in the class I have to take the AWD factor into play and remove any Twin Turbo competition since the Leggy is a single turbo. In my opinion the CVT is not designed to handle a tuned motor. How many WRX CVTs are going to shit due to this? Just saying. If I was going to buy a car knowing I was going to mod it in the future it would not have a CVT.

Here is my take. No point at all in making a Leggy 7th gen that modded. In the end the CVT is what kills the car. If it was a 4Th or 5Th gen with a manual I would say go for it. In the end dumping money into the build would be better spent in my opinion on a better platform to mod. The Turbo crowd has moved on on my area to twin turbo 6s or a SRT. Not trying to take a shit on you. Just saying my opinion but in the end it's your car.

No point to even spending the money. It's still a sub 300 HP Sedan. Keep everything stock. And if it's a non Turbo don't even waste your money. Better off spending it on suspension parts that will actually make the vehicle drive alot better.

I go up and down six percent grades daily I also live above 7k feet and have never had the brake fluid look like dehydrated urine. It will be dark but not the color you are telling us. I am also not very light on my brakes as well. I do not have the humidity factor so maybe that plays a part in the color you are seeing. But agree with you. Its a safety as well as a preventative maintenance item.

Why would you not change the filter on every change? Considering the OEM filter or equivalent is under ten bucks. I get a lot of folks do this. However to me it only ads like five mins to the oil change process. Even faster if the filter is on top of the block. For me I just do the entire process. Last change I did last week. Bought a six pack of M1 0-20 from Sam's for $32.00 and had to buy a extra quart(7 quart fill) from Wally World for $7.88. The filter was $5.00 from Toyota(Cartridge filter) this was for the wife's Lexus GS 350. Super Tech Oil has gone through a lot of third party manufactures in the last decade. From what I hear it's good oil for a good price. I just tend to use M1 on everything as I have seen the results. However the down side of regular M1 is take what the bottle says and half life it which is 5k generally and you will be fine. All in all to many oil debates and I don't even want to go into that discussion. I removed my Fumotos just because the ice and heavy snow buildup in the winter could cause the valve to open. Not saying it was a bad idea. However I like to let my cars oil drain for an extended time to get as much old oil out as possible. The Fumoto did not allow me to do it. But once again good idea.

What oil are you using?

Correct on the TSB. Mine was doing the slight rattle as well. However now the car is getting more use I don't even hear it anymore. I really only heard the rattle in temps less then 40 degrees. Do I never addressed it as SOA says it does not effect the performance at all. And the PCV is easy enough on this car. Have not done a change out yet as my 3.6 has less then 60k. I really I do that change out with OEM only at 100k. My daily Honda is getting that change out today in fact lol. As far as the Fumoto. I personally have went back to the OEM plug on my cars. I had a Fumoto on three of my cars in the past. For me it made it a tiny bit more easier to drain the oil. However I found that the Fumoto does not drain as much out like if you had the OEM plug in. Plus we have to change the filter anyway. Not saying the Fumoto is a bad thing but the softer seal for the plug always bothered me.

No way In hell. Honestly dude it's beat to shit. Judging from the front plate holder it probably was. And you will need new tires so add another $750 at least to the price. Then it has a TPMS which is not really an issue but if you wanted to figure $50 a sensor so another $200 bucks. And let's not even talk about the Cylinder issue. And the body damage is the icing on the cake. I mean it's worth a look. I mean yeah for $1500 bucks maybe. But a lot better cars out there. This car was driven hard, put away wet. And they guy probably had cheap ass mods on the car that are probably removed so nobody can see he beat the car to shit. Not being an ass. Every single STI or Regular WRX I have looked at on a dealer lot was modded cheaply and put away wet. So I am.very cautioned when looking at any Turbo Subaru etc..

It's just a 2032 battery. WalMart will have them. That size is the most widely used coin battery in the world. It should not be that hard to find even if you are in remote middle of nowhere Canada. Trust me I do alot of business in rural Alberta, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, B.C, and the Yukon. and never have any issue finding anything I needed at Walmart.

That sucks. Well at least at the end of the day you got the car you wanted. Maybe call Subaru and open a case about it. If it's one dealer it's ten others. To me I could give a crap about starlink. I even removed the fuse since I own a 6th Gen. To me the XM free trials for a few months every six months in worth it. I would say don't bring your car back to that dealer for service. Make that known to the GSM. As for me I don't trust a car dealer as far as I can throw them.

Not worth the cost. It would be more cost effective to buy another car. That car was never sold in the US with that trans.

Tell the salesman to go to the General Sales manager and tell him you want $500 off the price then. If he won't budge tell him you are going to walk. It's not like Outbacks are hard to find. Honestly I am in a high demand area for Outbacks and the dealers are still packed with them.

As far as a Hilux. I'll take Diesel Hilux any day of the week. That is almost like a Tacoma but just slightly different. When I lived overseas I had a Isuzu KB 250 and a 380 DT then I upgraded to a Defender 110 TD5. Where do you live?

I was not aware that any OEM STI parts such as Sways and a Tower bar would fit due to the STI a smaller vehicle. You need to go aftermarket. The Pinks will fit and no it's not to low lol but I think the H & R product is top notch. As far as the exhaust. That's where I will differ. I have a full setup including high flow Stillen Cats and a full Stillen exhaust. In fact the car was sent to Stillen for the Supercharger conversion by the guy who owned it before me. Anyway I am rambling. Back to the question. Axle backs are a complete waste. Yeah you will be a bit louder. But as far as power it's non existent. Please do not do a muffler delete. Car will sound like complete shit. If you are gonna do it right. If you do the exhaust do the five inch with the resonator. Just make sure the resonator will wit in the exhaust area. I had an issue with an ARC exhaust on another car with fitment due to the Hemholtz resonator. Now. The other issue. Washington has emissions. So as long as you are keeping OEM cars you should be good. But I do not know if they do a visual in WA but it seems like what you want should even pass California so hopefully you are good. I love in a non emissions state but still hate CELs. BTW love the wheels. Any chance you have a link on those? Been considering a set myself. Those do not look like 18s but if they are they look good. That's the look I am hunting for.

Funny you me tion the Tundra. It's not just the Tundra but the Tacoma as well. Toyota really screwed up on those. All Tundras with the Turbo six have been recalled due to the turbos failing. They have to remove the cab to replace. So in alot of cases the trucks are lemon lawed. They only Tundra with the 5.7 new is the most expensive one(I think it's an 1894 edition) and you cannot even find them even if you were willing to pay ten grand over asking. The Tacoma has not been recalled. However they should have kept the Four liter in that truck. I have two friends that have that truck both approaching over 300k with no issues. Subaru won't get rid of the WRX. However they need to listen to customers input on that car. Die hard WRX fans do not want the 7th gen. They have no STI version which is what people want. A TR edition is not an STI. As far as the Leggy it's dead. I see 50 Outbacks to one Leggy in my area and then if it's not an Outback it's a Crosstrek. If anything Subaru should make a Turbo Crosstrek that would be a hot seller. Every manufacturer is going to smaller turbo engines. I just think as soon as the turbos start going alot of owners will piss and moan and say the car is a piece of shit and not go back to that manufacturer again. As far as the 4Th gens. I have two. A 2006 SE with a manual and a 2008 3.0R. I will agree Subaru got alot of things right with this model. Including the seats. That's one gripe I have with my 6th Gen. My leg hurts where the booster is because Subaru does not have the material flush to the seat like Honda or Toyota. When I adust the seat so it does not hurt my back starts to hurt. So I would rather just rest my foot in another way. But again no issues like this in my 4th gens or my wife's Lexus or my Honda. I get we have to evolve. But at least evolve the tried and tested engines everyone loves due to reliability.

Look up putting the fob to sleep when car is parked. It also could be maybe you are using crap batteries. I switched to procells and I have not had the same issue as you for over a year. Before that is was every three months. Procells five procell five pack of 2032s is like six bucks or so on eBay or Amazon. Procells is made by Duracell.

In my neck of the woods the 80 MPH speed limit is more of a suggestion. Most locals set the cruise around 90. We had a 2019 widebody scat pack challenger. The automatic sucks in that car. The manual trans really gives a different feel that really gives that car justice. As far as the stang I would expect nothing but a manual. I was offered a Shelby GT 500 Convertible a few months ago from a buddy that is a sales manager at a dealer. Loved the car. Hated the seats and the fact ford still had the old school antenna in the fender. But the power and was incredible. As far as your insurance rates. My rates went up maybe ten percent in the last few years. However I live in the middle of nowhere Wyoming so maybe that's the reason.

I am gonna mirror what Silverton and add my spin. If the battery is strong and works then great. If it was me I would have asked for my money back and went to a dealer parts dept and gotten a fresher one. Or just went to Sam's, Costco, or Walmart. I am so sick of parts counter folks with an attitude. Bottom line of it's genuine Subaru and keeps a charge you should be fine. If it's that concerning and has issues take it into a dealer and get a replacement on proration under the warranty period.

Well. None. Question is are you using OEM? Not from Amazon or eBay but verifiable from an authorized seller? So many fakes from resellers that take a shit within a day. I am thinking you are using OEM but wanted to put it out in the air. This is why I have given up and just get bent over a little by the dealer. I would rather get screwed out of ten or twenty bucks then have to R & R a shit part.

Honestly. Keep that Coyote 5.0 and then get the newer Outback. Reason is you are gonna want it back as soon as you sell it. In my area Outbacks are everywhere. So they are a huge blur. If you are gonna compare maybe go look look at an Audi A6 wagon or something similar. But once again have no clue on the budget as Audis can get pricy. But as mentioned keep the Mustang.

Only downfall to the V8 S4 is the timing chain tensioner. Someone at Audi decided to make it out of cheap plastic and while not ally not an issue you have to pull the motor to replace a $150 dollar part. Thankfully we did for cheap. that as a family friend is an Audi mechanic. I generally drive in a 8th gen Civic coupe with over 200k on it. Since I have long driving distances. It's an EX but still bare bones. I just had a Grand Cherokee as a rental when I was in Houston working for a few weeks. I liked it but found the suspension harsh. Maybe it's because it had bigger wheels with lower profile tires. It was not a 4x4 and it was a V6 but it got the job done driving with the crazys from Houston to Galveston daily. I also had an X7 as a rental as a rental and honestly I was a great vehicle with the XDrive in the snow. He really with the Leggy of I am driving on I-80 I set the cruise at 75 and just drive. If a semi gets In Front of me the car slows due to eyesight and radar cruise. I do like the fact when the truck moves out of the way how the acceleration feels back from 65 to 75 it's quicker then I would think. My issue is just driving around on City streets sometimes the car goes what I am napping don't bother me lol. But that is just a CVT for you. And the Daughter and her BF have gotten the Civic itch and bought a 8Th Gen K20 Si. I just hope they don't do muffler delete and a test pipe

Oh it's still here. I was letting my 18 year old drive it. I agree with you it is a wonderful vehicle but at least for me I find my 4ths gens better in weather especially snow. Now can it hold a candle to my wife's manual S4 probably not. But she won't let me touch that car lol. I just came off a 700 mile trip to Elko, NV and back to Wyoming where we live. I drove my GS 350 and honestly I wish I would have had the Leggy with the radar cruise control. But it's a good car. And agreed. Anything sitting long can damage seals etc.. Thank you for your thoughts.

Dude, Just do it already. You will see a tiny bit better handling. Don't expect your car to grip like a GTR or STI with a rear bar only upgrade. As far as the endlinks you won't even feel any difference for the way the car is being used. I mean you will be removing the bar from the oem links so now is the time to change them as it's easier if you want to upgrade. As far as the aftermarket bar it should be solid. At least that's what my Whiteline, Cuscos, and Stillen bars are. However I can't speak for Whiteline possibly changing manufacturing methods. You could always look up the part number and it should specify if it's solid or hollow. If I was to bet I would put my money on solid. You could always call Whiteline and ask those guys for more extensive specs. But yes just pull the trigger.