MoleMan

Not really into Wagons. But if I was. My pick Subaru 4th Gen wise would be a Legacy GT Wagon. What specific model are you looking for?

Why did you not choose the OEM Billsteins? I hate KYB with a passion. Just cheap junk TBH. I get you already have them in the car. But I was forced to buy KYB during Covid due a supply shortage on my daily. I regret they decision daily but I needed something fast at that time. Maybe I missed something that said why you did not go with the Billsteins. But those are the better setup.

Funny I emailed and called Idemitsu and never got a response. So I just stick to M1. I don't go EP just the regular M1. The reason is some cars just don't like the add packs in EP. Burn off never has been an issue with M1. Honestly any good quality oil will work just as equal.

Personally my Leggy is not fun it's not boring it's just another car in my lineup that is a good highway cruiser. Now what I consider fun is my RC-F. Close to 500 HP with the luxury to match.

The big thing about the GR Corolla. It's a three cylinder putting out 300 HP and has AWD. Pretty badass as far as power for such a small engine. The 7th gen WRX sucks. All the die hard fans stay far away. In my area even the 18 year olds don't want them anymore.

A lot of aftermarket don't update lists often. If it's on the same platform it fits Prime example is my 4th Gen 3.0 no fitment yet fits without issue. The 7th gen platform should be the same for Sway bars. But as far as the verify fitment. Whiteline has done that for years. Once again call up Whiteline and ask the tech guys if you have doubts. I used to have to email Yoshi at Cusco and he needed to very with corporate in Japan the fitment. Always took him a day but I always got the right part.

Buy Sway bars. The brace won't really go e a feel until you get the sways. Then put the brace on and you will feel a lot less body roll from the whole car.

Why Amsoil? My biggest gripe is you have to order it and it's a MLM. Not saying it's not a good oil at all as I have used it. But I have found no difference in 5k changes between Amsoil and M1. This is on a daily driver Civic that gets reved to 6k normally. I have also used Redline with same results. Granted I do every 5k for ease of remembering. For extended changes M1 EP and Amsoil SS are excellent with the winner being Amsoil. The filter is not made by Amsoil. It used to be made by Champion Labs(same as a M1 filter) now they are made by Mann & Hummel. But never had an issue with the M1 filters. Stay away from Fram. Or just go factory that's what I do on my 3.6. However I would not do anything like a Fumoto until after the warranty is up. If the engine has an issue and the see the Fumoto they may deny the claim and say your Fumoto caused oil loss etc.. just saying I also have used Fumoto for ease of the oil change. But discovered that I still needed to change the filter anyway so went back to a normal drain plug. As far as the ops question. New engine. 1k. Then change again at 3k, And the third change at 5k. Then go to 7.5k, change again and go to 10k. Overkill yes. But that's how I do new engines. But again... To each his own

Just check the shipping charges back to the states. I shipped a Land Rover Defender back when I was stationed in Germany. It cost about four grand 15 years ago once all the fees were totaled up. And why three Subarus? If it was me I would find a R34 Skyline and put it in the mix. Especially if you wanna flip them. But yeah never have seen a Levorg on the states.

An Outback big? I would call my Ram 3/4 extended cab with an eight foot bed big

What type of Charger? Wife had a Scat Pack with the 6.4 before she needed AWD and traded it for her S4. As far as seasons. We just got 14 inches in the mountains last week with 3 falling in town. Next day it was 75. I run DWS on all my cars except for the winter. They are good up to about 3 inches. But love the water and slush.

Speaking of Grand Prize. I had a GTP version of that car. And I also had a Bonneville SSEI. Tons of get up and go from The Superchargers. As far as the Turbos. If they are just cruising I really don't see any power and loss compared to the 3.6. but I do see a difference getting into the highway where the turbo will scoot you but as you said it's getting pushed and that's what I hate about my commuter special 4 cylinder Honda. Just feels like it's gonna fall out of the car when getting into a highway.

Crossclimates are not snows lol. But if they work they work. Never got those tires as they are so different but everyone Ink own that has them says they are great. But I personally hate Michelin as for me the compound they use is just to hard. I am stuck with having to use studded snow tires due to crossing a six percent grade over three mountains. Then the non climbing part of the drive is dicy in the winter. Type in I-80 Wyoming truck pileup. That's where I am driving. And as far as Jeeps. Wife just bought a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon. It's really nice. Has aftermarket wheels and all the outdoor add-ons form the bed. Looks really sharp in the black which is rarer here. Still smaller then my 98 Ram Cummins 3/4 ton

Gotta laugh Love Western NY to be honest. But where I live 5 out of 10 cars are Subies with another 3 out of ten being Quattro Audis. Not to me tion all the Trucks lol. But we also have the coolest licence plates in the country Next state over has a special motto for the snow on their plates But back to tires. I was sick of getting smaller wheels for the winter. So I just put snows on the stock tires. So that is another option if you go with the 17s you could also use them as a snow set if you wanted. But as far as ride comfort you may see a little less jarring but that also depends on the tire you buy. If you say are running a Michelin Defender with a 800 treadwear it will be harsh. So mething like a DWS will be more sporty but also not as harsh.

Depends where you live with the pothole. Where are you? And yeah the tires are a little cheaper but not so much. Talking maybe 100 bucks a set difference and it's probably cheaper then that to be honest.

Why do you want to downgrade to 17s? Is it just because you like the look of the STI rims? I try to avoid used rims just because you could have issues with them. Never know.

Nope. Just the 2.5 and Hybrid from what I see when I go and build a new Camry on Toyota.com. the Corolla GR still retains the three cylinder turbo(300 hp out of a three cylinder and AWD OMG!) Yeah the 2.4 to me is more to torqy but the 3.6 is just so buttery smooth. If I wanted a turbo I would just go and get another WRX and end it lol. The Tundras have gone to six cylinder Turbos with an option for the V8 on the top trim only. The Avalon is gone off the lineup as well. Honda also removed the six cylinders from the Accord a few years back only offering the 1.5t and 2.0t. I think we will start to see larger displacement engines start going away to make room for electric and four cylinders.

I would not even mess with it. On a side note I run Valentine Ones on all my cars. Never have gotten a ticket. They are miles ahead of any other product.

Try this. My Lexus Info/media screen is covered a little by the dash. You could try just putting something to cover the screen from above and see if that cuts down on the glare.

It will fit. Same bar. Both vehicles are on the same platform. But once again I would get the matching set front and rear. To me the car will feel just slightly not planted with just the rear bar. With both the feel is amazing. The above poster also commented on the adjustable Links. Great suggestion. Now is the time to do it. If you are unsure call RedRover AKA "Whiteline" and ask them they should tell you without bullshit answers. Keep in mind most parts are made here in the US now.

Love your post. Makes me feel guilty for driving my 98 3/4 Ram with the Cummins. I have a controller on it with a bigger turbo. I never try to "roll coal" but I was hauling my 34 foot toy hauler last weekend on a 6 percent grade and rolled some coal. But agree with you about the CVT. You just got to do as you described and the car feels more linear. But once again it's a CVT. At least the 3.6 sorta dumbs down the slow as hell feel.

To bad after the 2024 model year Toyota will no longer offer a V6 in any car they sell for that brand. You would need to go to Lexus to get the 3.5. Toyota will still continue to put the 4.0 in the Tacoma. Seems like for the 2025 model year the Camry is only going to have the 2.5 four banger or the hybrid. But the 25 Camry looks really nice. As far as the TRD Camry. It's sorta a joke. It looks nice. But the FWD just does not do it. It drives nice as well. But that's about where it ends. Just a body kit.

Ok. In a nutshell. I avoid DI engines like the plague. You will always have carbon build up because the fuel does not get to the piston it ignites before. While technically more efficient it creates the carbon build up issue. An acception to this for my is the Toyota 4DS system. You have DI and Port Injection so you don't get the carbon build up issues. Now the issue here is most all manufactures are going to DI. To me that is gonna cause a lot of engine replacements after the ten year mark. To your question. No. No way to prevent the carbon build up in a DI engines. Once again the fuel is not igniting as normal in the cylinder. It's igniting at the top of the cylinder and not hitting the piston. It basically ignites when the injector sprays the fuel in a more efficient way. So regardless of fuel grade used it will still keep building after time. Yeah you can use certain chemicals to remove the carbon. But this generally involves putting the chemicals into the spark plug holes(which is a pain in the rear on boxer engine) and doing a "soak" overnight etc.. several videos of this are on YouTube. So you can see for yourself. Most are being done on Civics which are Port Injection but still a few DI videos are to be found. A catch can will do nothing to prevent carbon build up. As far as your fuel question. Remember Santa Fe will have lower octane then Houston due to the altitude difference. Most Subarus run fine on regular gas. In fact I have used 91 ethanol free, 91 regular, and plan crap gas in my 3.6. results all the same as far as mileage. And yes 91 is the highest grade due to the altitude I live at. This would be equivalent to 93 in Texas. Only exception is on the Turbos which I believe need premium. I would do some research especially on DI more. You will see that some manufacturers have found the problem and have tried to fix it or make the carbon build up better. While others manufacturers just go a step further and put a port inject in to alleviate the issue all together(Toyota). Now Subaru being partially owned by Toyota I would hope would have something similar to 4DS but I am not familiar or can speak for it as I simply do not know on the 7th gens. Maybe someone can chime in on that.

Once again dude. If it's such an issue. Just sell your car and get something that is not an connected to anything. A forth Gen has nothing except for NAV. Only person that can tell you if your insurance company used this data if in fact it was sold to them is your insurance company. I get your point. But nobody can tell you what's going on other then your insurance company and it's doubtful they will be truthful. If you want push the issue with Subaru I doubt anyone Frontline at Subaru will know the answer or even care. Once again in your own words "they may have collected my data according to their policys" key words here are "may have". In comparison do you think Credit Card companies do not do the same thing? Just think on that for a min. These days everything is tracked to a degree. But maybe call your insurance guy. If any date got sold from your car to them he/she may tell you. Or they will probably just tell you what you wanna hear to get you out the door. Once again I get the point. But if it's such a huge bother just sell the car and get something older where it won't be a worry. And I am not being an asshole just saying if I was so worried that's what I would do.

Montana and Washington I'll give you Montana as I drive in Montana quite frequent. Eastern Idaho and Wyoming here. Mostly SW Wyoming. I used to live in Vancouver WA so as you know when that ice comes it's bad.. The ICE X are good as I have run two sets of them. They do have a mileage warranty and are the only snow tire to do that. For me I found the Blizzacks wonderful. But the cheapo GT studded are the ones I have been using on my daily to cross the sisters twice a day from Rock Springs to Evanston and the pass from Rock Springs to Lander two days a week. As I said DWS are the only A/S tires I drive on. Great mix. The Michelin AS4 or any Michelin to me the rubber compound is just to hard. That's just me. As for the Moogs they are good. I actually have a full set of Moogs sitting in a box brand new for my G37. They are beefy. About half the price of Whiteline. If you have light clunks it's probably just the Billsteins and your setup. They can be a bit stiff at times and will give that sound. If it's light it's prob not a LCA but ya never know