MoleMan

Don't hold your breath on what Cobb says. They upset a lot of people when they really went to just focusing on the WRX and Focus ST/RS market. Year they have some options for the GTR but hey that market is hot and sales are sales. As far as the response meter in the car. As far as stock it shows the true pedal input. With a commander IDK if it will show that same amount. They car I have one on does not have that meter on. PC makes a blanket product. Only the plug that goes into the pedal assembly changes based on car model. Remember it's not a power modifier in anyway like an Accessport. That being said only way to mod the Commander would be finding someone that can change the parameters in the device to deliver more percentages. Easy way to think of that is overclocking a computer processer. But if Cobb comes out with an Accessport it would be worth the wait. Honestly the one best way to improve the situation is to get Subaru to stop putting CVTs in everything. Only six speed option in the whole lineup is on the WRX. But in reality that will never happen Keep everyone in the loop with the Accessport situation as that will be a good seller for folks with a Leggy XT or Outback XT.

That may work for the OP. Issue is the damn learning transmission that has been in cars since the mid 90s. My wife drives aggressive and I don't. So I get into her cars and the cars are woken up and have wonderful response. Other factor is she drives mainly on City streets and I drive on the highway. So for me I am all about fuel efficiency. But the process you described would work. That being said it won't trick the Computer like a Pedal Commander does. But the Pedal Commander does not add power. OP it really seems you want more performance and an Accessport would help that issue. Maybe talk to a few tuner shops in your area and see what they think. Only other option is to go for a larger turbo or go to a more powerful car I drive a 140 HP econo box half the time since I don't want to use my nice cars. My issue is going from 140 HP in that car to going to my Diesel which has a controller and getting 1200 FT Lbs of torque or into my Lexus which has 480 HP/460 Tq from an NA V8. Have to remember to not treat it like a crapbox Civic with a 1.8 because the powerbands are night and day.

Looks to be a fender liner. You should be able to pull the clips out and get a part number. If this is a pic of your car why do you need to replace?

Well you did not put a price range on it. So I'll take a Ferrari California Roadster. Now back to reality. I would probably go Lexus LC 500 convertible or hardtop. That's only because I have many AWD vehicles. Now if I am limited to AWD or 4WD. I would probably go Lexus GX or Toyota Highlander. Honestly can't stand the Outbacks.

Yeah. No thanks on the four cylinder Camry. Could never go back to a four pot Camry after owning a six cylinder. I have a Scion TC our 18 year old has. I drive it for years. The 2.5 is not bad in that car. Issue is Toyota will stop putting six cylinders in the Camry after the 24 model year. They never put one in an AWD version for a reason. The reason is because the Lexus line is the only way to gonif you want six cylinders and AWD. And even that with the GS being discontinued is getting hard. Toyota you your point has given the Camry in 300 HP but not the AWD factor. Subaru is honestly let's face it mostly boring cars that have utility. That is why people buy the Outback and the Ascent's. The Legacy was dying ten years ago as the vehicle basically stayed the same which is a four door family sedan with various levels of upgrade options. The Leggy started in a decline really the moment the Turbo model went away. The WRX is Subarus Fun car. I have my fun cars and my just get in every morning reliable but boring cars. And honestly I am in a rental weekly for work to the point I really don't even care at this point. All the new cars just blend for me at this point. They all seem to be the same. Everything has a big screen and has a turbo four or a normal for cylinder. Just basic transportation with nice upgrades...

Well I would use Idemitsu as I can source it fairly cheap. However can't get ahold of them by phone or email so I can check out the specs compared to other brand names. Could just be because they are generally not sold in stores on a consumer level.

I almost made this mistake as well on my last change on the wife's Lexus. Both the Oil Plug and the trans plug are literally right next to each other.

Gotcha. Makes more sense now. Just a observation. The M1 filters are now made by Mann & Hummel and no longer made by Champion Labs. I tend to use OEM on the 3.6 as far as the filter but all the other cars get M1 filters. Just never put a Fram POS oil filter on the car. Just saying this out of experience.

OP. Seems your issue is solved. But in the future I would not check the final level on the dipstick until the car sits overnight to get the true reading. We are all assuming you have a 3.6 with the 7 quarts. So hopefully you do. Where I am lost is you said you checked the oil dipstick and you were way over the fill mark. Once again we are all assuming you have a 3.6. If you have the 2.5 then your overfill would seem correct for that engine. By you saying you checked the dipstick and you were over tells me that we have an issue. So let's say you made a mistake and drained the CVT fluid. Mistakes will be made. But then your engine oil is still overfilled. So sorta lost here. So now you seem to have two issues to address. Not trying to be the asshole here. But just going off info in the posting.

Same here. I had a buddy with a Monster Miata. People would chase him down asking why their Vette just lost to a Miata. He showed him what was under the hood and all they did was laugh. Same buddy also had an RX8 with a LS2 swap. Now the car always got looks but the speed with the LS2 turned some heads. That's just me. I like more rare sorta homemade not supposed to be in the car what the hell type of vehicle.

Gotta ask. Four cylinder or six? I have seen exactly one Outback 50th and it was a four cylinder and one 3.6 50th. They are a little rare.

You gotta watch the S4s. Avoid any year with V8. The timing chain tensioner goes out and you need to pull the engine to replace it as it's on the back side of the engine close to the firewall. People decide to sell when they learn the cost. $150 dollar part will run you 5k to change out unless you happen to be a professional Audi mechanic. We have a 2014 Prestige with a six speed manual Has a JB4 on it. I was lucky getting the six speed. I was staying at a hotel and struck up a conversation with the owner. I asked him if he wanted to sell. It was the right combo I was looking for(Silver, black leather and the six speed) he agreed on the price I said plus I needed to buy his ticket back to Denver. Done deal. But the S4s are just that an A4 with more power. Nice car but still to me just a sedan to blend in with the rest. Yeah the RCF is pretty nice. Issue is it's a heavy vehicle compared to others in the class. And frankly others in the class can outperform it(think Nissan GTR and Corvette). But I love the comfort and power it gives. And yes still have it. Only bought it in April. Maybe have driven it 50 miles since I got it. Too many hotel stays flying all around the country for work not to mention rentals(have a minivan right now because that's all they had when I flew into Portland) As far as yourself why not look for an R34 Skyline? Those always catch my eye. But again they are popular and in high demand when they come it. But I say the rarer the car if it's on your radar go for it. It seems it's what you want. And it would stick out to others in the Subie community.

I got ya. However don't check it like that. Just put about a half quart shy of what the book fill says. Start it up on the ramps and crawl back under to make sure no leaks are coming out. Then back it off the ramps park it and do your clean up. If possible do your change later in the day if it's your only car. Let it sit all night and then check the oil level off the dipstick when the engine is cold. That's the true reading then adjust if you need to put some in. As you mentioned just make sure it's level when parked. It really does not need to be as overboard as some people say it should be. It's ok to go over a bit but not excessive. So if the car calls for 6.8 with the filter I just put 7 quarts in and call it a day. That is what the dealer would most likely do as well. I can give you a worse dipstick. My 8th Gen civic has an orange dipstick. Try to measure anything on that on anything but a sunny day. And my S4 does not even have a dipstick. I am going to do the recommended transition for a dipstick. I have always found this to get the best drain no matter what car btw. Drive it for about a half hour. Go the store and get your new oil let the oil heat up in the car. Come home and put it on your ramps. I always get 95 percent of the old oil out without an issue. I also let it drain for a good while while I have a drink. Remember some oil will still be in the block and you just can't get it out. Hense is why I stop filling with new oil a half a quart short. Also remember from the L mark to the H mark is one quart.

Good points. Also OP. Remember that the Customs fees can be expensive. Issue is for the price you are paying if you find the car would you rather have something else? Point in case I was looking for a Lexus RCF for about two years. Requirements were lower miles, no accidents(that was hard to find) and not in Black. Found two that fit my profile. One Silver and One White. Both were out of state. One was at a Lexus dealer. Went ahead and called the dealer as I was going to be in that city for business anyway. Test drive and inspected the car. Made an offer of 3k less then asking and they took it. They even gave me a deal on shipping 750 bucks back to my house(was not going to drive a 500 HP RWD car new to me across I-80 in the wintertime) Funny thing is when I brought it in to my nearest Lexus dealer (have a GM friend that runs two Lexus dealers) I was told that Silver eas not that popular and he's only seen/sold one other. Apparently tly the Lexus forums backed that up. Only 300 sold in that color in five years. The White and Black cars were more popular. Just saying everyone has a Unicorn. Question is do you want to pay tens of thousands of dollars with import fees for it at the end of the day?

I have realized on any Toyota engine you want to stick to the recommend weight. As you mentioned their is a reason for it. Many Lexus owners are reporting the they put 5w20 in and the car was not running right. Drained and replaced with the proper 0W20 and everything was fine. Heck GM has been spec'ing 0W20 on the 5.3s for a decade and nobody is complaining. As far as heavier weight like a 5W40 I would only do it if the car was modded with a bigger turbo. Most WRX and Leggy GT drivers I know that are modded do this and it's common. I have looked at the spec sheets for the oil weights and honestly some of the more thinner oils are on par with a 5w20. Once again I have two cars that spec 0W20 both Toyotas. Have never had any issues with burn off even after 7500 miles. I just use Mobil 1 AFE 0W20 and a factory filter. I have seen burn off using Mobil 1 EP 5W20 compared to plain old Mobil 1. Generally I think the burn off is due to the VTEC using some oil at 5K RPMs and on that run I was crossing mountains with a 6 percent grade where I needed to hold the RPMs up a bit. But then again talking a Honda R18 with no power. But yeah agree with you just put in what the owners manual calls for.

I got ya. My 06 2.5i as you mentioned was so faint that he needed to put the scope on to hear. He said it was not as bad as you mentioned. The 08 3.0 had the same issue. No noise but I could hear a faint sound when the windows were down. Replaced with a Timken part and have not had the issues reappear. Now to your point I have had the screaming ones that are telling you "replace me" as well. Best issue I had is when my Hondas radio was on the brink of failure(common issue on the 8th Gen units after ten years). It would just decide to give a pulsating sound at the highest volume setting at random times while driving when the unit was off. Could do nothing about it at highway speeds until I pulled over and restarted the car. Used to scare the hell out of me.

The tires are lower grade. But I do see them alot on cars where I live. If the tires are screaming on older pavement it's probably the tires. That being said Every 4th gen I own has has both front bearing assemblys replaced. Subies don't seem to scream like other cars when the bearing goes out. My mechanic had to put a scope on the bearing to see if it was bad. But I hear road noise with my DWS's on older vs new pavement. One cheap and easy to get rid of the noise is to turn up the tunes!

If I had a new WRX I would be thinking why the hell did I just buy this. The new platform is awful. Sales are in the toilet. And yeah I agree with you. Both can be used. Only reason for the 0 weight is for fuel economy. Now if I had a highly modded turbo then I would be using 5w40. But then again my fun car is a NA with close to 500 horse.

Still using an aftermarket no name brand. Just saying it's your labor. But I would go OEM or well known aftermarket. What the issue is it could be a half a MM off once it's in and cause an issue. Just saying I have learned the aftermarket vs OEM replacement part game and with most replacement parts like Air Filters, Oil Filters, etc the majority are ok. But in this case it's sorta like comparing Fram to OEM but then adding another cheapO option that nobody has heard of. Just saying it's your labor and time. Good luck to you my friend.

I would advise against this whole idea. Personally I go aftermarket on certain parts. A fuel pump would not be one. I look at it like this. Is the $150 or so you are going to save going to be with it when you are in the side of the highway trying to fix an issue with the "Yunkin" part you put in and it crapped out? Just saying have been there and done that in the middle of nowhere 100 miles from the nearest sign of life. Had to have a friend bring me the part. But to each his own. Good luck my friend.

Stick with the 0W20. I get your point. I have had many V6 Toyotas that have been spec'ing 0W20 for decades. Never have had an issue with burn off or performance. Yeah you could switch to a 5W20 and have no issues. The oil weight is mainly for CAFE standards for mileage. Now as a shocker. Go on Mobil ones website and look at the specs for AFE 0W20 compared to 5W20. That being said I don't prefer lighter weight oil with the turbo especially if running hard. But we are talking a stock setup still under warranty. And to your comment on how thon warm 020 is. It may look thin. But as long as it's clean it good. I always when changing my cars that take 0w20 see the oil as really clean compared to my daily that uses 5W20 M1. But then again Toyota and Subaru oil always seems clean to me. My Hondas and Audi seem a lot darker. I am weird with oil. I can smell Castrol if a car is using it. IDK why. But Castrol has a burning smell to me like nothing else.

Never have seen a dealer even try to upsell a fuel filter replacement TBH. I mean yeah it's preventative maintenance. I would just buy the parts from a dealer and not off Amazon or eBay. It can't hurt at all if you wanted to. If you feel confident doing the job go for it. As me mentioned just buy the parts from an actual dealership. Not online. Learned that lesson.

Good luck with that Just for giggles try to find a VW Passat W8 4Motion wagon with a six speed. Talk about hard to find. Only 300 imported.

You can't just replace the filter. You need to replace the entire assembly at least that's what I needed to do. If the car is not having any issues then why change it? I have more then 200k on my daily fuel filter and pump fyi.

Seems you need the highest setting to satisfy you. It took me some trial and error to get the settings correct. I find in wet or snowy weather you don't really want sport at all. But keep in mind the device does not add any power. It just tricks the ECU to think the pedal is down a certain point when it's not. You keep saying it won't amplify more then 40 percent. It's because they system is showing you are most likely at 100 percent. On the highway I honestly have found the device useless because once again it does not add power. Go get an Accessport or a JB4 and I think it will give you exactly what you are looking for. As those add power by giving the option of adding more boost etc. BTW they will not give you a custom mode. They don't want the liability of some dumbass crashing because of the product. Hope this helps.