MoleMan

All Leggys are the same built except for cars that were sent to heavy emissions states at the time. And the only difference is the warranty on the emissions control systems is increased. Those states are generally northeast states and California. I love not having emissions inspections anymore.

@Stuff, I have started my car from a fourth floor hotel room without issue. Granted the car was parked directly under the room with zero obstructions and no cars or trucks around it for five spaces on each side. I think the max range is 400 feet or so. I have no clue if the starlink remote app start has a distance limit or not. At home same thing however it’s parked in a garage with another car alongside it and still no issues. It seems I have more issues starting the car remotely with the dedicated remote starter fob then the regular Subaru fob which until a few months ago I did not know started the car remotely as well.

Op, Have you tried lubing up the non broken latch at all? This could help. As ammcinnis mentioned this is a very rare issue if even an issue. The only thing I can possibly think of is if the door got locked after you opened it and even though the door was open the child lock was still engaged. Good luck.

It’s funny a lot of members are getting a gift from Subaru. I have bought now going on five new Subarus in a twenty year timeframe and have received nothing from SIA except for the magazine that was put out. However I can say compared to other car brands which I do currently still own and drive the service has been no less the stellar at any Subaru dealer regardless of purchase or service.

@Silverton, 3/32 of mismatched tread is tolerable but it’s pushing what personally I would say replace. I really do not like more then 2/32 of treadwear difference regardless of what car I am driving. I think most dealers say this not to upset about three quarters of customers that would argue why the Need to buy all four. This is a common argument I see quite often at local tire shops. To the OP as others have said a fifth wheel rotation schedule is published and available. With the OP being from Australia I can very much understand the need for a extra full size wheel/Tire combo. In fact on my daily driver since I am so remote areas and stretches of I-80 I did place a full size tire/wheel combo in the trunk. However it’s more for safety then anything else.

I am guessing you got the car used? Thinking maybe the Turbo was changed because of the banjo bolt issue/recall. If you are the original owner I would say bravo! As even the most babied turbo cars generally have issues way before your mileage. I would say as far as a date code maybe SIA can help but you are probably better off talking to a Subaru mechanic that has done the turbo repair before. It’s a hard one as nobody really looks at date codes unless warranty work was done. If it was in fact used when you bought it pull a car fax and see the date of the repair and you have your answer. I believe the banjo bolt issue was for for 2005-early 2007 builds.

Both my 06 and my 08 do not have this issue and both are western cars. Only car I really have seen this on was a 2000 Jetta I owned and it was awful.

@Ncted, Funny you should say that. While I dislike Yolks because of the feel I will say I had a brand new pair of Avid Ascends put on a 2012 Camry V6 I had and got caught in a pretty bad snow storm on a mountain pass. They did fairly well getting me to where I needed to go without any major slippage. However that was at a full 10/32 of tread. Seeing your screen name you are probably located in North Carolina. You can get away with all seasons in that area. Where I am located sometimes studded snow tires are pushed because of the weather.

You would need to get the specs to see if it would fit. The pictures seem to show a little wiggle room for modification. However you would probably be better off buying individual gauges from AEM or another vendor and buying a two hole gauge mount. I personally would fit the mount and get it super tight. Should not pop off. You can always use something like superglue etc to make sure it won’t move but I would probably use some double sided tape so removal is easy if you ever want to remove the setup.

@Dougkelly20, I have found with the DWS the “S” will start to rub away at about 6/32 or so of tread, the W at about 5/32, and then the “D” goes at about 4/32. Generally I replace my tires at 4/32 regardless and that’s the tread depth needed for max proration credit on a new set. Yokohama’s to me just feel weird. Not saying I have ever had an issue with any Yolks I have owned but to me they just feel non responsive. And the warranty of the Yokohama’s are junk. Continental, General, and Michelin all give time based test ride warranty’s where you can exchange them if you don’t like them. I will say this. The DWS is a very smooth driving tire at speeds over triple digits for an extended amount of time.

@Oldpilot, You are very correct. The snows are louder then all seasons. Now I have had Michelin Ice-X as well as my personal favorite the Bridgestone Blizzak in the WS70,80, and now the 90 series tires(Bridgestone just updates the model and tread design every few years) and have found the Bridgestones to be very quiet. If the vibration is an issue that’s just a balance issue from the installer. That can be corrected easily. But as far as noise once again some roads do that especially when going from crap pavement to good pavement. I have also found that in anything above 32 degrees you will feel a big difference in performance as well. @JRu17 you probably have the 980s unless you got old stock of the 970s. It’s a good tire nothing to complain about. I still am hooked on the Conti DWS series.

Welcome. At 85 Thousand miles or 137Ks I would be looking at a few things especially since it’s on the third owner. Has the car been modified in anyway? If so are their recipes for any major engine mods? Has the turbo been replaced? What about the block? Timing belt would be a concern but that’s a fairly minor replacement cost of about $800. Since the current owner most likely knows what they bought ask them about oil consumption and oil type they are using. Did the current owner track the car at all? Try to get a sense of the car was driven hard. Personally I see way to many used GTs and WRXs at dealers that still have mods and access ports on them. To me that’s a huge walk away alarm as honestly if I put those parts on the car I would also have driven it hard. Any and all info would be of great help here.

@Whitexc, I will be happy to take a pic for you tomorrow when I get back home from my business trip. First time anyone wanted a pic of my old truck! The exclusive part is its a manual! Don’t really see a lot of manual Diesels anymore. @Sliverton, I remember when COVID hit In 2020 the highway patrol where I live were clocking people on an average of 90 and sometimes 100 and it was all over the news urging people to slow down. They were not pulling anyone over because nobody knew how serious COVID was at the time. It says something that when the state troopers don’t wanna pull someone over unless they have to what’s going on. I generally don’t want someone right next to me pacing my speed when driving lol. But to your point people I think are just over this and feeling pushed and in a pissy mood. I think we are all trying to make the best of it and all have rants as you saw with me!

@Sliverton, Yes it is really neat. The hack to show how to do this is all over YouTube. The G has a pretty crappy AWD system anyway. The Attesa system is nothing compared to what you you find in a GTR. The system is 100 percent to the rear in normal driving and will split the traction 50/50 if it detects slippage. However having one of these cars I can say the car gets loos really quick since the system does not grip like a Quattro or a Subaru. In fact I prefer my 2006 2.5 over my 3.0 or 3.6 in the snow because of the manual trans. My S4(well wife’s) has the eleusive 6 speed as well and that car to me is just a hair better in the snow then the Subaru but just by a hair if that.

@Sliverton, I somewhat agree with you. It’s a good choice for people that like to hammer on turbo and N/A engines. The added Zinc pack is great for that. However most people I see running it are running it in a race specific car and will change it after a day or weekend of hard racing. I have used it a few times and can say it’s not a good daily driver oil unless as stated you like to completely hammer your engine to redline every chance you get. Besides that it’s expensive at about $12 bucks a quart. To your conclusion on Mobil 1. I have been using it since 2004 and the only car that I have that hates it is the Infiniti as for some reason it burns off quicker so I use Penzoil Platinum in that car. All my other cars take regular Mobil one with a M1 filter and they couldn’t be happier.

I you want a AWD drive car that you can just pull a fuse and go 100% RWD just go get a Infiniti G37x. You can do what you want and its easy to switch back and forth. No mods needed except pulling a simple fuse to go back to AWD. And yes you have your choice Coupe or Sedan. But sadly the "X" model only comes in a seven speed auto.

Thank you, I do not worry about PCV valves. Generally change them out at 100,000 anyway. Its a part that is either broken or not. No in between.

Problem with Motul is that is on the same level as Redline when you want to buy it. Nobody stocks it and you need to order it. And someone mentioned Castrol. I would not even put that crap oil on my kids bike chain. I have had nothing but issues everytime I have used it.

@Brisvegas, When I lived in South Africa that is when we used to say as well when the Wallabies came to play the Springboks. @Dishwasher Not to mention the V6 Charger and V6 Mustang drivers. @Whitetiger I will agree on your statement probably more then my Outback rant. The Wrangler, Base model A4 Drivers, and Outback drivers are all on the top of the list in my area. The F150 Ecoboost drivers along with the Ford Edge drivers round out the top five. And finally@gathermewool. Its mainly the base model half tons that think they are one tons that seem to have this issue and mainly Ford F150s ecoboosts. Most of the 3/4 and 1 Ton owners know they can get away with being an asshole because they have the power to get away. I have a mid 90's 3/4 ton Diesel with a controller and an exhaust. I mainly only drive it to tow the fifth wheel when we go camping. But I forget sometimes that it blows black smoke just because its a dodge and its even worse with the controller. All in all I will agree each brand has some smug AH drivers.

Ok, As of recent every single Outback driver I have encountered has been a real Asshole. I own multiple cars across multiple brands including Audi,infinity, and a Mercedes. I have always honestly thought those brands have some of the biggest AHs. Outback owners always seemed to be the most friendliest people up to now. I have seen it the dealership seeing Outback drivers yelling at service people because “I bought a Subaru to drive in bad weather” yet they don’t understand their tires are 2/32 of tread and that why the car is not gripping. Or in the case of today pulled into a parking lot to get lunch. Guy pulls next to me with his 3.6 Outback with a bunch of cycling stickers of the rear glass. Started to talk to him since we support and have raced bikes for years on a semi and professional level and he gave me a get away from me AH look. Then proceeds to cut In front of two people. I am not saying once again other brand drivers are not Asses but once again of recent I am seeing this trend of Arrogance with the Outback drivers in specific. While on the other side of the spectrum the WRX guys just wanna race everyone with a smile on. Anyone have any opinions specifically on this subject? I know some of the members here own Outback’s and as mentioned most people I encountered for years always had this I just smoked something happy as a clam attitude. And I figured this was the best place to post this as most are Sixth gen Outback’s.

Boy, This type of thread can open up the sky lol. Since you are running a GT and cannot find Rotella which is the best choice, as mentioned PPHM is a good oil and Pennzoil Platinum Ultra is also a better choice. The HM oils don’t really appeal to me as I have used them and seen a noticeable difference the MPG drop as well as performance in several cars across several brands. Now the Ultra you can’t just go to Walmart and buy. However NAPA seems to have it and is the only one to carry it anymore. Of course you could also go Amsoil or Redline if you want to spend the money. And of course you could always go with M1 but I have found for cars that are pushed a bit N/A or Turbo the Pennzoil does not burn off as fast.

@XT-sub, I think it would be funny to attach a Toyota emblem instead of the Subaru Emblem sometimes. Our cars after all are somewhat Toyota’s to a degree. My 3.6 actually reminds me of my 13 Camry XLE V6 as far as the door handles with the three lines for the touch entry and the seats are concerned.

@Sliverton, The OP mentioned that his voltage was at 12.5 volts AFTER the car was on and running. I assumed this since they said they had it checked at Autozone while it was in the car and after I once assumed they drove it to said parts store. So at that point the battery at that voltage would be toast and require a replacement. To give reference. I drove my 3.6 a total of 320 miles in 2021. It has a stock battery. The battery is dead. I have a Schumacher plug in jumper/tender which I use to start the car. On occasion The car gives an eyesight warning issue on the center display between the speedometer and the tach. I have come to the conclusion that since I don’t drive the car and it’s in a garage and the windshield gets dirty the eyesight cameras are just going haywire until I clean the windshield near the cameras and then the car is fine. In this case this is a simple battery issue with the voltage issue when the car is running/has been run recent. Some of us live in climates where the weather gets below zero quite often In The winter months(it was -12 where I was yesterday and only 6 durning the day yesterday)so the average life of a good battery is generally 2-3 years instead of the normal 4 or more when going through the climate cycle. @slyquist, If the dealer does conclude it does need a battery replacement be sure to tell them you want your old battery back. You can get a proration or free replacement if you are within the warranty period. Napa is really good about not giving you BS if you are within the warranty period. Good luck.

@Sliverton, Just saying I would never touch the negative and positive cables together. Yeah it could work. And yeah if you are a trained Subaru mechanic I would also expect the dealer to take up responsibility if something goes wrong. Not saying it does not work. With the battery pulling 12.5 volts any mechanic would say replace the battery regardless if factory trained or backyard. I design aircraft parts for military aircraft and also have worked on commercial airliners such as the 787 designing parts. You would never believe me if I told you how many people freak out when I tell them the wings flex and it’s designed to do that. But let me ask have you done this procedure and have any electrical issues happened specifically with the sixth and seventh gen cars?

I would not recommend the "cap discharge" method as described. Never have heard of this of seen it done. To touch the negative and positive cables together seems like it would just invite an issue to the electrical system and I can not see any trained professional mechanic doing this at all. The other method of removing the negative and positive cables will reset the computer etc. The only setting you will lose on this car will be the window settings(relearn procedure a five year old can do as it's easy) and maybe the TPMS display in the cluster. But it won't move your seat settings like other cars. But since you have said that your meter tested the battery at 12.5 volts just go ahead and replace it with a non Subaru upgraded battery(huge discussions on this issue) you take your pick of the two sizes and go from their. I would not do anything else at this time besides replace the battery. Once again please DO NOT touch the negative and positive cables together! Good luck.