MoleMan

Dont pull the fuse. Any not signing up for Starlink I dont think matters. I have asked multiple experts on this as well and half said IDK and the others said it will still try to connect. Who to trust on this IDK. I dont ave a starlink subscription as well. But i do think it loads regardless. Subaru OEM batteries are shit right out of the gate. Just upgrade the battery and you will be fine. DSeveral discussions on that here. If you drive the car daily it should not be a huge deal. I mean I have driven my 3.6 once this year for four miles to the gas station and back. I also start it once a week and force charge by turning the headlights on for 15 or so mins. Never had an issue. And this car is outside in below freezing weather. I have asked some local experts on this issue. The system is not active when the car is off so they are trying to understand how it drains the battery. I always seem to experience excessive battery drain when the car is locked and alarm armed. And this is across 2 4th gens and one 6th gen. So I honestly think the battery drain is coming from the alarm system somewhere. But as mentioned its through two generations that are ten years apart so something is going on. So I solved the issue by not locking the car. No excessive drain at all. But once again Subaru Batteries are shit and weak. Change it out.

Personally I would have not gone that tall. But the setup is fine. I see so many people in my area running snows year round. Me being me I always ask. It's mainly folks that have had back surgery etc.. the snows are a lot softer for them. Now please tell me you bought Blizzacks or ICEXs? I have found both these snows the best for traction without going full studded. It's hard living at 8k feet sometimes

Goo gone. It's from the QR stickers that Subaru thought were a great idea. Thankfully I still have all four on my rims. Probably an inventory reason or something.

My Infiniti would do this when the battery was going dead. Drove me nuts. Never had this issue on the 3.6 even when the battery was replaced it retained the settings. I feel your pain though! As above member has said maybe your battery is low? Follow what they have said. They are well respected and in the industry.

Yes and no. It's a recommendation. While most people stick to the recommendation some do not. On my daily I am using 91 ethanol free. Manufacturer spec is 87 Octane cheapo gas. Mileage gains on highway jumped from 42 to 46 at 80. Even better when reduced speed. I mean to be nitpicky you can fill a diesel tank with Jet A. It works and has no issues running. I will say in my 3.6 I see no difference between cheapo 87 or 91. Always returns 28 on the highway like clockwork. No more no less Now with our Lexus if you do not use 91 and put a lower grade the engine pings and runs like crap. Could be a product of the D4S or cold weather. But clears up when at -temps with 91 as Toyota recommended.

You need to take it it! Been a week since my post been traveling sorry for delay. But yeah your Kia has a parking brake update that was all over the news that needs to be updated. Just saying. I took a chance on a Kia. Lasted two months before I got rid of the POS. And it was a new Soul. Thing drank oil at the rate of a quart every 200 miles. Dealer was no help. Kia customer service is just as bad. Probably could have got lemoned but thankfully the dealer I traded it into gave me 2k less then I bought it for. I was glad to just get rid of it. Kia/Hyundai is really good with sales as they get you with all the fancy tech that a similar priced competitor would not have. Where they fail is the engines. Let's be real. Go count the number of Fourth or Fifth gen Outbacks or Legacys while out one day. Then see how many Ten to 15 year old Kias or Hyundai's you see. They are also really funny. I have a co worker that beats the shit out of his 15 Elantra flooring it everywhere and the thing never has had an issue. As far as the Fumoto. I had the product on several of my cars. Thought it would be easier changing oil. What I learned is it's really not. I could never get as much oil out of the pan as I could with a normal oil plug. So I just went back to the plug and washer. Great idea. But in the end I did it for accuracy. Nothing wrong with the product itself. Only gripe I could not pick about is the material the Gasket is made out of. To me it should have been metal. But that's griping. Good luck.

Just use the mounts from Bilstein. My 3.0 R has the same mounts as the Spec B as they both use the Bilstein setup. A word of caution. Bilstein products seems to always be on backorder at least when I need them. So I would see if they are in stock or you need to wait four weeks to get them. You could always call the local dealer and see if they have the stock mounts from a Spec B or 3.0 R as well. If Flatirons cannot give you a hard "Yes they will work" or "No they won't" just avoid buying from them. Wasted install time just to find out they won't work is what makes me upset.

I would take that device off that Kia ASAP. With the issues I am seeing with the engines on the Tellurides and The Palisades now popping up Kia will blame you if they find it and decline any warranty claim. Had to go through the Kia Oil Burning rod bearing issue myself on my daughters car. Kia gave us every excuse in the book to not fix even though it has the KSDS update and regular oil changes with factory filter. In the end they declined the warranty due to me not putting down an oil change I did myself. Thankfully I was able to get 5k out of the thing and got her a used Lexus at the same dealership. And yes the rod bearing issue is on the 2.0's, 2.4's, and even the new 3.8's now. But back to topic. Take it off or they will decline anything for a warranty thats big. Kia really does not care at all.

Just got to chime in on this one. Whoever said that to you just ignore any automobile advice from them in the future.

Don't think they send insurance anything. I have had my car at triple digit speeds and never had anything happen with anyone from insurance. In my area 80 is the speed limit on the highway and regular speed for most folks is 5 to ten over.

Great point. It is part of the cafe standards. I mean yeah quite a few engines say use 0W 20. Will anything really happen if you put in 5W20 no. But its all about Cafe standards so the manufacturer can say we can get 30 MPG instead of 28. And great point on the ECU. With the majority of the 7th Gens still under warranty this would be an instant denial in any claim.

Correct. However it depends on the manufacturer. Toyota has the D4S. The difference is you have both DI and PI so the Carbon issue is not even a worry. With everyone going to DI without PI the carbon issue in some engines is become problematic. However not really seeing it in any engine from Toyota. BMW had an issue with carbon and seems to have curbed it. And Audi has had DI for years and so many older 2.0s running around. Only manufacturer that seems to have major issues is Hyundai and Kia. The main issue with DI only cars is no matter what gas or cleaner you use it will never get rid of all the carbon. The reason for this is the fuel is ignited before it reaches the top of the cylinder. This is why D4S is a great system because the PI injects the fuel so it retards the carbon build up. Only real way is do do a soak with SeaFoam or similar and even then it won't get all the carbon out. And the method for doing that I would never recommend to someone who is not experienced. This is why I try to avoid DI engines all together. But it's sorta like trying to find a non CVT car these days not to many options.

Anything will work. Question how will it look? I just don't see it looking good. But that's me. I love the look of.the Outback Wilderness but to me it would look better with body color flares instead of the black flares. But I say to each his own. Would love to see the finished product.

Maybe the rosary did the touchscreen in on one sharp turn Yeah dealer replacement is $1,400. You can source the unit from other sources from wrecked car etc for under $300. Or if that is not an option just get a nice head unit that is compatible with the backup camera at a radio shop and have them do the install. Don't know if your car has Nav but any new unit from a good car audio place will have Nav, Bluetooth, etc and prob a better quality as well.

OP, I am in a rental practically every week. All the cars I rent have ASS. I just turn it off. Yeah it goes back on when I park and shut the engine down for the day. But I have found it an issue that takes 20 seconds to solve with the button in the car. This is across all multiple manufacturers including a seventh Gen XT I got as a rental for a week. I mean it could be worse. Only option at the Airport this week for a rental where I was was a Minivan. So yeah I was stuck with a Town & Country with a lane keep assist I could not turn off so the thing kept pulling me. I do believe someone has a fix for this but you need to disable it from a stand alone console. But not worth the time in my opinion.

All because you checked the bushings does not mean they are not bad. Bushings will look fine from the underside because they fail from the top not the bottom. All of mine have failed and looked fine. The arms will always look fine as well. Seems you may have said to the dealer you already checked the bushings and just check the arms. So they probably just looked. They never test drove the car? As Silverton has said below it's a suspension issue. It has nothing to do with your EPS at all. My guess is once again the bushings on the Lower Control Arms or an endlinks. It could also be an end link which would be great for you as the stock endlinks from the factory are under 40 bucks each. Easy install. This can also cause the clunking as well. Just replace both at once. Have a professional check it out. Don't guess and tell the dealer you checked out this or that and it's fine. They will just keep throwing out potential solutions that cost thousands. Just take it to another dealer/mechanic and say I have a clunking sound. That's it. See what they come up with.

Just curious why everyone is gravitating toward the EPS on this. Yes I have the rattle as well. Never brought in in for the TSB because it seems to go away when I get in the highway and can be a slight annoyance over bigger bumps or road imperfections. OP is saying a clunking can be heard. OP have you had anyone look at your Control Arms? Specifically the bushings? I know on my daily I have to replace my bushings every two years or so and have huge clunking sounds coming from my front end. Granted my daily is a Gen 8 completely stock Civic and it has over 200k. That being said both my 4th Gen Legacys also had bad Control Arm bushings which were replaced with Poly ones and I never had the issue again. However made the cars stiffer by a touch. Maybe have someone check out the Control Arms and get a yes or no on that before springs thousands on an issue that may not be the culprit. I do know some members live in areas where roads are bad and will tear up suspension components. I also know some members that have commented are Mechanics and maybe can chime in on my thought on this as well.

Just chiming in on this. I have a trusted mechanic I have been going to for years. He is an ex Subie mechanic and an expert on repairs. He told me with CVT's to change out the fluid alot(Like every 15K) and they will be fine. Issue he said it is gets expensive but is better then replacing a whole unit. He said he wished car makers would stop putting CVT's in everything as the old 4EAT and 5EAT never had any issues unless abused. I had to agree with him on that 100% but it is what it is.

Have not been on in a while. Yesterday Got the letter for the extended warranty for the DCM for Starlink causing a battery drain. Here is my question. I understand the DCM is getting stuck in a loop because its trying to dial into the 3G system which was discontinued. However I do not have a active paid membership for starlink. So the question is will the DCM still continue to dial without an active membership for Starlink? I have two other Subies both 4th Gen Legacys both bought new and have always had crap Subaru Battery performance until they were changed with a bigger aftermarket battery. The 3.6 has indeed been replaced with an EnerSys Odessey battery and have no issues at all since the changeover. Keep in mind the 3.6 has been driven 1,000 miles since 2020 so barly no use and it is in a climate that has negative temps and is stored in a carport(Other cars get the garage!) Can anyone chime in on this and answer the above question?

Love everything about the car except one thing. Gotta lose the mudflaps. Nothing wrong with them. However every kid with a base WRX where I live has them on. To me I like the cleaner look without them. And for the sways. Get a full Whiteline set. That's what I have on my Gen 4. I also added a Cusco front tower brace and Whiteline endlinks. Car handles great through the canyons. I would also get some wheels. The stock ones from the 3.0R look good. Anything aftermarket will look better. Something just looks to off with the stock wheels. That's just me. But still love the color

Why can't the selling party run a Carfax for you?

I have had 2 WRX's and find the manual trans to be good but the clutch to be a little stiff to engage. Still less pressure needed then my wife's S4 or even my coveted A3 GTI VR6. Stock battery is basically junk. When I swapped in the Odyssey in mine the specs had it at 51 lbs. So fairly heavy. But when you need to deal with -20 in the winter I would rather have the car start. And Gen 6s don't have start/stop so not an issue. Surprisingly never use the heated seats. I have a car with air con seats and that is nice is 90 or 100 degree weather. I would do a set of sways and not just the rear. I always change them to a set. Call Whiteline and see if they have anything for the Gen 7. So many aftermarket places are moving away from supporting non Turbo cars because they make no money on the parts. Exception to this is American muscle cars. Our cars simply have such a limited market.

Very well said. Just for comparison. I have a 2015 Lexus GS 350 AWD(Non F Sport). The car has 73,000 miles on it and I need to replace the pinion seal on the front differential. Part is $50 dollars and requires 9 hours of labor doing it the quick way. Dealer wants to charge $3,900 for the repair at 23 hours of labor. My mechanic will do it in about 8. But this proves that failures happen to any brand car. So far my only grip with my Gen 4 Legacys have been the wheel bearings going out very early. The 3.6 has been trouble free in the 57,000 miles I have had it. I mean even my daily Honda Civic has had some issues and had to have the VTEC solenoid replaced at about 20k miles now its at 200k no issues. So once again issues happen with any car.

If you take it back they will say "it's within tolerance" I have a 2mm gap on the bottom of my drivers door between the rocker panel and the door. Granted this is my daily driver Honda I got new. They basically told me it was within spec. When I pushed the issue they said they would fix it by replacing the door. I opted not to do that since it was a brand new car. Alot of dealerships are basically telling people to piss off with issues like this. I own several brands of cars and I even see this at Audi and Lexus.

So dumb idea. Did you check your key fob for a dead battery? Mine is dead on my 3.6 now and I get the same results as you until I put the key to the start button and everything starts up as normal. And I mean the exact same results. Stiff pedal, everything turns on just no power. I just have not dealt with the battery due to I rarely drive the 3.6 and have been flying all over getting crappy rental Corollas to finish up Q4 for work. Worth a try for 2 bucks.