MoleMan

Love everything about the car except one thing. Gotta lose the mudflaps. Nothing wrong with them. However every kid with a base WRX where I live has them on. To me I like the cleaner look without them. And for the sways. Get a full Whiteline set. That's what I have on my Gen 4. I also added a Cusco front tower brace and Whiteline endlinks. Car handles great through the canyons. I would also get some wheels. The stock ones from the 3.0R look good. Anything aftermarket will look better. Something just looks to off with the stock wheels. That's just me. But still love the color

Why can't the selling party run a Carfax for you?

I have had 2 WRX's and find the manual trans to be good but the clutch to be a little stiff to engage. Still less pressure needed then my wife's S4 or even my coveted A3 GTI VR6. Stock battery is basically junk. When I swapped in the Odyssey in mine the specs had it at 51 lbs. So fairly heavy. But when you need to deal with -20 in the winter I would rather have the car start. And Gen 6s don't have start/stop so not an issue. Surprisingly never use the heated seats. I have a car with air con seats and that is nice is 90 or 100 degree weather. I would do a set of sways and not just the rear. I always change them to a set. Call Whiteline and see if they have anything for the Gen 7. So many aftermarket places are moving away from supporting non Turbo cars because they make no money on the parts. Exception to this is American muscle cars. Our cars simply have such a limited market.

Very well said. Just for comparison. I have a 2015 Lexus GS 350 AWD(Non F Sport). The car has 73,000 miles on it and I need to replace the pinion seal on the front differential. Part is $50 dollars and requires 9 hours of labor doing it the quick way. Dealer wants to charge $3,900 for the repair at 23 hours of labor. My mechanic will do it in about 8. But this proves that failures happen to any brand car. So far my only grip with my Gen 4 Legacys have been the wheel bearings going out very early. The 3.6 has been trouble free in the 57,000 miles I have had it. I mean even my daily Honda Civic has had some issues and had to have the VTEC solenoid replaced at about 20k miles now its at 200k no issues. So once again issues happen with any car.

If you take it back they will say "it's within tolerance" I have a 2mm gap on the bottom of my drivers door between the rocker panel and the door. Granted this is my daily driver Honda I got new. They basically told me it was within spec. When I pushed the issue they said they would fix it by replacing the door. I opted not to do that since it was a brand new car. Alot of dealerships are basically telling people to piss off with issues like this. I own several brands of cars and I even see this at Audi and Lexus.

So dumb idea. Did you check your key fob for a dead battery? Mine is dead on my 3.6 now and I get the same results as you until I put the key to the start button and everything starts up as normal. And I mean the exact same results. Stiff pedal, everything turns on just no power. I just have not dealt with the battery due to I rarely drive the 3.6 and have been flying all over getting crappy rental Corollas to finish up Q4 for work. Worth a try for 2 bucks.

You stole my plate man! I actually have two versions of that plate on two of my Subarus. FlatSix and Flat6. I have had so many Porsche owners call out that plate!

This is what I would do. Change the oil yourself and put in a new filter. Fill to spec. Run it for 100 miles and then check to see if the oil still is glimmering. You could also change the PCV as a precaution. A bad belt tensioner will cause a knock bit won't cause metal shavings in the oil. If after the 100 miles you are burning oil then yeah I would say you have a bad rod bearing. To your question. Yeah if it's a bad rod bearing you can drive it as long as you watch the oil consumption and fill it when needed. The issue is your cats will eventually get clogged. Now here's the major issue. Massachusetts has pretty stringingent emissions and safety inspection. If the car throws a code then you can't get it registered. Most shops will not rebuild the engine. It's cheaper to throw a used one in. If I am not mistaken you can get one from a Leggy or an Outback. I would maybe spend the hundred or so bucks to have a shop that specializes in Subarus inspect the car. Don't tell them anything and see what they come up with. You are probably going to be in it 5k. Always with a car like this have it checked out beforehand. Looking forward to the outcome

No real benefit to AGM over a flooded battery. I switched to a deep cycle and have not have an issue with the car sitting for a month at a time sometimes at -30. And not talking an Optima Red or Yellow top. Went way beyond that. To me I could care less about rattles. Even my Lexus rattles. I love road noise and feel. I know I am weird

Easy solution. Just put some cardboard under the car overnight. If you have a drop from the oil pan gasket it will show up on the cardboard. If that does not produce results its more then likely wherever you get your oil changed spilled some in the engine bay/block and it's burning off. I did this myself on one of my cars and even earning it well I still had the smell for a week.

Second that In all reality the Red bottle Iso-Heet is ok for both a water remover and I injector cleaner the yellow is jiat a water remover and will do nothing. Fill up next time at a brand name station using supreme and add a bottle of Techron and see what happens. The winter blend will make the car run like crap for a month or so before a constant cold temp stays. With me I rarely drive my 3.6 so I put 91 octane ethanol free fuel in and it runs like a champ. If you have no codes it's not the coil packs. They should run a code if they are bad. Same with a bad plug. OEM coil packs are not cheap at all. I would not just throw parts at the car. Try the Chevron premium and Techron method and go for a long highway drive and see what happens.

Then its free then lol! I bought a set of those when the first came out. Took them back within a thousand miles under the Michelin Ride Guarantee. Michelin tires and me don't mix. Butter smooth at 80 plus. However very hard packed rubber. I think I am just used to DWS's as I have had them for 15 years on every car I own. It's to the point the tire guys won't sell me anything else then DWS's. Good luck.

In that case. Even though I hate Michelin. That would be what I would recommend for a summer tire. The Conti is good but the Michelin is better on a true summer tire. And it pains me to say that as I highly hate Michelins rubber compounds. To me they are way to hard.

So some service or parts guy told you a 24F battery won't fit without buying all new parts huh? Bracket is around $80 bucks. Tray around $20 , and the J hook about $10. Why cannot you reuse everything? A 24F fits perfect in the existing tray using the OEM bracket and Jhook. Don't go and buy some crap Optima RedTop. Spend some money and buy an Odyssey or any other deep cycle battery. As far as Michelin. As you wish alot of better options. If you must do Michelin then don't let some tire guy talk you into Defenders. They would be the worse option you can get and the ride will be one of the worst you will ever have. Stick to something with a 500 to 600 treadwear as you will get the best ride and performance without going to Summer tires. Why the need to spend a grand on new tires? Just run out the OEM to 4/32 and then get new tires. If it was me if you asked me what the one thing I would change. Pick up car. Drive to specialized mechanic. Change CVT for a 6 speed manual. We can all wish lol.

All Summer Tires. Once any weather rolls around they turn from super sticky to super garbage. That is where the DWS takes over. I only have Summers on one vehicle I own. Once they wear down I will replace with DWSs again. They were on the car and that's the only reason they are on the car. That particular car is still making me learn it 2015 Lexus RC-F(470 HP V8 not the 3.5 6). Then again my money goes to new Blizzacks yearly. I will say never had a bad Goodyear at all.

They will always make the infotainment better etc. Chances are it's probably a programming tweak. Only other thing I can think of is with the tweak they increased to boost by a PSI or two. That could also be the difference. They have now got the vehicle more refined. That being said we are in year four of this platform. So I would imagine they are ramping up for a total redesign for the 2026 line up. From what I understand the chassis will most likely be the same. I would bet money we will either see the Legacy cut all together or an electric version added to the line up.

Love the Brown personally. Am even thinking of finding some Brown seats out of a 6th Gen Outback Touring to swap with my Warm Ivory seats in my 6th Gen. I don't dislike the Tan but the car needs to be a certain color to look good for me.

Here's the issue. A dealer will give you blue book. They dont care about the mods at all from a value standpoint. Chances are good some mechanic will strip the mods off anyway and resell or use them. Now private market is different. This is an enthusiast car. That's the market you are going for. They know what they are buying and what the car has. Here's my story. One of my cars is a 2013 Infiniti G37. I have the full Stillen Supercharger conversion kit on the car. That does include new headers, a full Stillen exhaust, a stillen G3 intake, and of course the supercharger. The kit with install was about 8 grand. Could never get anything from a dealer. Would need to sell to an avid enthusiast to ever get anything out of it. Its paid off and just a toy to me now that I have moved up. As far as the last statement. I am a power junkie. 400 HP and 440 TQ was not enough for me. Had to buy a 2015 Lexus RC-F with the five liter V8. Stock puts out 470HP and 450 TQ. Now I want to trade the wife's S4 for a GTR. But back to the real world for a sec. I would just keep the car and enjoy it. Personally I would love to get walked by you just to see you roll.down the window and smile

Depends on where you live. I see quite a lot of Gen 4 GTs for sale in my area. Gen 5s always one or two but not as many as gen 4s. Then STIs and WRXs by the handful for sale daily.

Also understand the trans is always learning. A new car that has not been driven will respond way different then a car a few years old. You could go out and drive really aggressively with the 2020 and see if the trans feels any better. If you really wanted you could disconnect the battery and see if that wipes the computer and that may give you a fresh start relearning. Then again you can always buy a sprint booster of pedal commander and get the feel you are looking for.

Op, Have the bent wheel moved to the rear. If you still have the vibration after that you probably toasted a Control Arm Bushing. In this case don't take it back to the tire shop you went to. Seems like they are idiots. The first thing the shop should have done after telling you was to move it to the rear and then come back of you feel it again.

Check the tire pressure. A lot of the dealers will set to 40 psi and it will seem like the car is "Faster" off the line. The two cars have the same engine. So I'm this case it's not that. Subaru could have tweaked with the programming of the trans a bit so it gives more of a linear feel.

When I get into my 4th gen 3.0R I simply forget I have SI-Drive. We can add another thing. Getting rid of the CVT Trans. But that will never happen.

I had a VW Corrado do the same thing to me. At the time it was so expensive to fix that I just kept the roof shut. Looking back should have kept that Car..

Just be sure you have a full exhaust to go with the headers. With the right combo the sound will be very nice. More Porsche 911 sounding. For some reason headers are making a bit of a comeback. I am still thinking of all the "Muffler Delets" and how crappy that sounds. All I gotta say is if it's done right then that's all that matters