silverton

I do know, and the bulb still illuminates, just dimly.

^ What they said. Battery starts the car, alternator keeps it running. but if the alternator hasn't been able to charge the battery sufficiently it will also go bad.

You can kinda determine it just based on the condition of the plug. does it look melted? are the contacts clean and shiny or are they burnt and corroded? You would put the multimeter leads and check what voltage is making it to the pins. this is called 'voltage drop', they should be reading battery/alternator voltage, if it's less than that you have excessive drop and I would suspect the connectors.

You may have excessive resistance in the headlight plug itself, I know on the older models the plug would melt and the bulbs would be dim until you spliced in a new connector.

They're plastic, so how clouded are they? my third gen is the same way though, barely tell a difference between DRL and low beam, still even with new housings, but I can see better!

I had an oreillys alternator last me about 200 miles before failing, I was really impressed. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. did you replace the first bad replacement with the same brand?

That's a bit low there buddy. Even if we're aiming for the middle spec of 156.5, you're 24% under. but doesn't really explain why it falls on its face with the alternator harness plugged in. Have you replaced the alternator yet? Have you checked voltage at the alternator while its running? Or the battery itself? Battery starts the car, alternator keeps it started. a battery will keep a car running for a short time though.

That explains things. rodents chewed through the wiring for your crank position sensor. No CPS signal to ECM = no start.

I had a MINTY 1987 Nissan 200SX SE-V6, bought from the original owner with 113k on the odo in Feb '11. They made just 10,000 of these with the vg30 in it so they could rally it. Something similar happened to me 9 months later, this idiot needed the exit on a two lane road from the left lane for some reason. Long story short the insurance company hugely low balled me by price comparing it to the only 200sx's they could find, the base model. I spent a day crawling the united states most populous cities craigslists to find all the SE-V6's I could. I came up with three that were close but not quite like condition. I replied to that email with a "that's offensive for this rare of a car, try again" and the links to the three cars I could find. They upped their offer by 2.5x and I was happy.

This one. the negative cable has enough slack to reach. If you feel better/safer disconnecting them both you may do it that way but not necessary.

The modules get extra triply unhappy when the battery slowly drains like that.. Do a cap discharge; disconnect the neg and touch it to the positive for 30 seconds and try to start it. It will crank long but hold through it should fire.

I use a 12mm socket on a 1/4 ratchet... do be careful with those connectors, they break if you look at them wrong.

I don't have much professional experience with 3.6's but one did come through with a single cylinder misfire, replaced a bunch of stuff....ended up being the ECM. Before you buy anything swap coil positions just to see. when were the spark plugs replaced? good luck!

Tire tread depth, generally measured in 1/32nd of an inch increments. 3/32" is the maximum allowable difference between tires on a Subaru. Not likely you're issue here though as all yours were new. I do wonder, maybe try taking the car to a performance type shop for an alignment, I know a lot of them outsource that stuff, but ones with in house alignment machines exist. a "normy" shop can't figure it out, and honestly having worked at one, there aren't too many smart people at the dealerships. they generally have one person who does all the diagnosis and the rest of them just turn wrenches. I know you mentioned an independent shop, was it a subaru specific one or just any brand? if it wasn't subaru specific i would try to find one of those instead.

chains are generally good for the life of the engine. if you regularly have hard tapping noise that subsides real quick from the engine on cold start you may need guides/tensioners, otherwise... that's the point of a chain, to not worry about it.

Nothing beats OE, and it's $10 and some change out the door. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2007_Legacy-25L-4AT-Sedan/Cap-Radiator-Radiator-Cap/49251974/45137AE00B.html NAPA wants $12 plus tax, crazy.

Unless you've swapped the car, your 2007 Legacy GT should have an earlier EJ255 in it, which is intake avcs only. 10-12 ej255 legacies are dual avcs.

if higher octane cleared up that pre-det, there must be improved something. pistons, rods, and bearings dont like detonation. I doubt Cobb is doing these things on a 'busted' motor, so I doubt a 'tune-up' would correct it.

higher resistance to knock = more power, or at the very least more efficient power

Yeah, I actually wasn't sure how much it could be disassembled, but good job figuring it out! Someone around here (forums) ought to be parting one of these out and have one for you. Parasitic drain can be annoying, easy to find hard to fix. I still believe their function is the same as I've described, I don't have a lot of experience with pre-01; where those two loose wires are brown.

I know this thread has been a bunch of people saying "it's the tires" and you just say "it's not because they're new". If you're so certain that it's not, and all these mechanics are telling you everything about your car is fine, what do you think it could be? If the alignment is true. What's left? The only thing that touches the road. Any kind of deviance in the shell of the tire will make the car do oddities. How much QC do you think there is in a tire that's $60 your cost? I'm actually not finding these Primewell's on Firestone, Discount Tire, or Tire Rack at the moment; at least not in my size of 225/50R18. I actually can't find Primewell's from any reputable site, and no I do not consider amazon or walmart a reputable site. https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/blog/tires/primewell-ps830-850-tires/ firestone carried this tire for less than three years. article written in 2020 with a dead link to the products. Not a good sign, they probably warrantied so many of them due to complaints just like yours.

Yeah buddy! I haven't bought anything from amazon since 2017. brick and mortar or the company itself. My fitbit died just under a year of use, and I got a new one after they asked me "where did you buy it" "fitbit.com" "alright, new one is on the way!" didn't even ask for proof. https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-subaru-2005-legacy-2-5l-4-cyl- It was the same between this 2005 4 cylinder and my 2017 6 cylinder, all subaru drain plugs are the same thread pitch.

You may have some luck disassembling the switch and cleaning the contacts, otherwise check with local junkyards or ebay.

Cool! Replace the multiswitch. those two loose wires, i didn't notice earlier, one is brown, the other one is kinda taped up but will also be brown, but that is to reprogram keyless remote and/or stop the lights from blinking when you disconnect the battery if you don't have a fob. at one time they were connected to a button but it is small and fragile so they're gone most of the time with only the loose wires remaining.

Given the information provided, I would start with a new combo switch. Looks like that car had a bit of water in it... given that those electrical plugs shouldn't ever have mud on them like that. the green one is the dealer check connector and should have a matched color friend, the black one i'm not sure. If you don't have a second green plug then those two wires are likely for that. if you do have the second green plug those two wires are likely for reprogramming keyless entry.