leadfarmer

I took the light switch apart and bent the contacts on the rotating switch back to where they need to be. Now I have all lights working as they should. That light switch is definitely not meant to be disassembled. I will have to get creative to get it back together as a lot of plastic tabs broke taking it apart, but that's a win. Next to figure out the parasitic drain. I see there are a lot of threads on that so I have some research to do. Also, regarding the color of the two mystery tires, the one with insulation still on it is black with white dots.

Bugger, rather than spend $200 on a new switch I might have to just get creative and 3D print a little switch box that attaches to the lever or something. I don't want to spend that much on this one.

This is an offroad beater car so its seen some things. Both green plugs for test mode are present.

This car came to me with this issue. I'm finally trying to fix it. The left hand combo light lever will not turn on the running lights or the headlights. It will turn on the momentary high beams if you pull the lever towards you. I know all the external lighting bulbs are good because I can get them to turn on through my troubleshooting below. The turn signals function as they should. Also the hazard switch and the parking light switch work as they should. It looks like at one point someone replaced both headlight bulb connectors. The passenger side connector shows signs of overheating. They appear to be properly wired when replaced. I found some blown fuses laying in the fuse box under the hood, but everything has a good fuse in it now. I connected a test light to ground to check for power at the connectors under the steering column going up to the combo switch. I found that when I touched the right wires, I was able to get the parking lights, high beams, and low beams to turn on (and audible relay clicks). So I'm not sure if this is telling me I have a ground issue or I have a bad light combination switch. I'm hoping it's just grounds as that switch isn't cheap on rockauto. Under the dash I found a black connector that isn't plugger into anything and 2 wires with pin ends that look like they fell out of a plug. One wire melted off its insulation. I'm not sure where they go, what they're for, or if they're related to the plug that isn't connected to anything. Photos attached. There is a decent constant drain on the battery when the car is parked and key off. Good battery will die in a day or less. I found I can knock out most of the drain by pulling the Clock/Room fuse under the hood. Also removing the Unit Back UP fuse or the DR-Lock fuse under the dash partially reduced the drain. I removed these independently, with an amp meter between battery terminal and disconnected lead. I'm not sure if these things are related or all independent. I think I'm going to start with cleaning and upgrading ground connections.

Thanks for the response. It did occur to me today that there is no O2 sensor in place at the moment, so that's definitely an issue. I'm not even worried about the evap leak. The 98 will never go on the road, just be a farm car and probably a part's doner for the 97.

One of my Gambler 500 associates gave me a 98 Sedan, 2.2L with 230k miles. Unknown maintenance history. Exhaust has been cut off just below the heads, so basically zero exhaust. None. Zip. Zilch. The intake has butchered. A short rubber tube goes from the throttle body to the MAF sensor, which is all the intake it has right now. Basically the MAF sensor screen is the intake filter for the moment. It was hooked to a long hose which ran up to the roof to a cone filter to make a snorkel. I was told that with the exhaust cut off like this and the intake snorkel hooked up it drove from Pittsburgh, PA to Detroit, MI and back for a Gambler 500 event. At the moment the car starts easily, high idles for about 30 seconds, and then rough idles down to a stall. Working the throttle can keep it alive but barely. Code P0102 along with small evap leak are presented by the ECM. Unplugging the MAF sensor allows the car to keep running, but with a poor idle. The wires to the MAF sensor appear to be a 12V power, 6V power, and a ground, with engine off and key on. The connector looks good, with no corrosion, etc. I have a 97 2.2L Legacy and I swapped the MAF sensor. Same results. So it appears the issue is not the MAF sensor itself. All intake vacuum lines appear to be sealed and in good condition. The IAC has good resistance and 12V power per my Haynes manual. The $500,000 question is, will this car run at all with the intake and exhaust in the condition they are in? Should I hit up the junk yard for a factory air box and exhaust before I go any further with the P0102 code? Follow up question. I have a 95 2.2L Legacy sitting around. I was thinking about parting it out, and I'm not sure if it's worth holding on to as a parts car for the 98 and 97. Each of the three seem a little different under the hood. It appears the front exhaust pipe/manifold I need for the 98 doesn't match the 95. Is anything on the 95 going to be useful for repairing the 98 and 97? Motor? Transmission? Rear differential? Also, can someone confirm the 95 2.2L is a non-interference motor, and the 97 and 98 2.2L are interference motors?