silverton

every 0 weight oil is going to be synthetic. you can find full and partial synthetic 5w30. It doesn't matter any more though, that was an issue like 20 years ago when synthetic oils were new. you should read that as "0w20 oil is optimal for fuel efficiency so the EPA gets off our back" 7500 is the normal service table; but I bet you don't fall under normal service. You need to follow the severe service table (OCI 3750) if any one of the following applies: I live in Seattle, so I frequently check mark the first, second, and fourth severe condition. In a few years we're all gonna be driving under that third one

That's wild buddy! I've been curious how many ugga dugga's it takes to damage a stud in a way to do this. Do you use wheel spacers?

No, if you read your owners manual you should find 5w30 is an approved weight, you'll notice 1-2mpg less though. 7500 is far too long, so you may have done this to yourself? I don't know what they recommended on your car when new, but at a dealership in 2020 your car was on a 3750 interval. 15+ were 6000 miles and that's still too long to go on oil, but that's what they do to lower the cost of ownership metric.. you should go 5000 tops, definitely NOT 7500 Using a slightly thicker oil weight wont void your warranty, unless you put some 75w90 in there.... dont do that. Since you do it yourself and you have concern for warranty claim, have your parts guy ring the 0w20 up, but then refund it for the 5w30

This TSB leads down a rabbit hole that says to make a warranty claim for the tires. Cheapest of the cheap tires, I don't really care if they fall under Bridgestone's umbrella, I don't like their tires either. 'reflective' of a pull to the right? Or did you actually notice a pull to the right? What did the wear on the tires look like? I still think its the tires. The only way I will have confidence that it's not the tires is if you put this set of wheels/tires on another vehicle and it drives fine. Just as an aside, a subaru specialty shop wont be as well outfitted as a dealership, I've worked at two and have missed some of the things the dealership provides. You could try barking up SOA's tree and saying something like 'hey, my car does this thing and i've taken it in a bunch of times for the same complaint and they all say it's fine, while also confirming my complaint, can you help?'

They call them DWS06 Plus now. They improved the wet and snow performance by like 10% or some silly metric they decided to use. Cross Climates are for your grandmas outback.

I don't recommend running 15 year old rubbers.

If you were not smart you would have just rode it out LOL Some work was probably done on the front end of the vehicle and person doing the work was not good.

This pains my soul to the very core. Did you know that your brake rotors can warp from unequal torque on the lug nuts? At the very least go buy a clicker torque wrench from harbor freight the wheels are mounted to 120nm or about 89ft/lbs. Just for some maths. 150lbs on the end of a 2 foot breaker bar can apply 300 ft-lbs of torque Nothing special if you have the hub rings with the wheels, they'll mount up just like OE. My set of hub rings like to pop out or stay attached to the hub when removing them so you do have to pay extra attention there. You absolutely do not want to double up those rings.

Nah those bolts dont just end up being loose. Glad you were smart enough to get that looked at before any one died. Front suspension falling apart at speed would be ungood.

Well you got a '13 legacy, hindsight is always 20:20. every FB engine from 11-13 consumed oil, those were the beta engines when the EPA forced subaru to push the engine into production, forester seemed to have gotten the worst of it.. even some of the 14s and 15s. I know your case is different since you were trying any oil to stop your consumption, but as I said .... getting my oil changed at one shop i thought had consumption issues, started changing it at another shop and boom.. no consumption, only difference was quality of oil. My recommendation is get that Outback, but from the very beginning run a high quality 5w30 like chevron/mobil1/idemitsu/whatever.. over the 0w20 the dealer has and change the oil every 3000 miles. I think the 6000 mile interval is just asinine.

IMHO, carfax's are there to make uninformed people feel better about their purchase. Imagine my surprise when my insurance agent told me that my, supposedly, 'clean title clean carfax' car had been already paid out by a prior claim as a 'major loss'. I do believe they will show you service history though, so long as the shop the vehicle was serviced by submitted to the service; that's what you want to see. My 3.6 had a stellar service history, would have walked away otherwise.. 6k oil changes, except when they did the 30k, they took it 10k miles before the next service.

I don't think whiteline is going to make a front bar for the sixth gen. They barely make one for the fifth gen, same diameter...but two adjustment/set points. big whoop. I remember measuring the front bar on mine and it was something stupid like 26 or 28. Me personally, I wish I could ADD start/stop to my 3.6

Woof! You're asking people with 8 year old cars if they have 175k on them yet?? That's 22k miles a year buddy! Maybe some dashers or uberererers are here but those cars are run hard and beat to hell so not a far comparison to someone who just needs a commuter. I got my 2017 3.6 a little over a year ago and I've put about 12-13k on it. I live in WA, there were a few road trips, Montana once..or twice?... the peninsula a handful of times... the car got a lot of "extra" miles this year so to say. I worked at a subaru independent and did two or three oil changes on it during my time there. Each time I would be .75 to 1 quart low on oil. Ya know, I just accepted it; I thought it only affected the four cylinder cars but whatever. I started working at a different shop, different oil, I've changed it twice in my time there. Both times the oil was right on the full dot with zero change in driving habits or whatnot. Independent shop had bulk oil trucked in from... Kendall maybe? whofrickinknows.. the new shop I worked at didn't have bulk oil, so both times I had them order Idemitsu for me. Idemitsu is an OE supplier of oil so it's good shit. So, if you do end up with another Subaru, and I hope you do!, and you fear its consuming oil... try a different brand before fulling writing it off.

Just be thankful you don't have Tesla fitment.

Hey that doesn't look too bad! I'd miss my two cup holders though! Oh wait! Are they behind the shifter hidden by the center console lid? A $10-20 bluetooth ELM dongle and an OBD app (torque for android idon't know apple stuff) would display the necessary info. I know some techs just use a laser temp scanner on the bottom of the pan but I'd rather have the car tell me what the sensor temp is.

Spring in the steering rack assembly? You mean the TSB for the bit of looseness that's felt when the rack isn't powered? You didn't HAVE to do that... https://www.carcomplaints.com/Subaru/Legacy/2017/tsbs/tsb-04-17-17-r.shtml Every cars suspension should be refreshed every 70-100k miles to keep the car performing like it did when new. I don't know what's different about the 3.6's steering though, afaik it's identical to the 2.5. Just so you're aware, Subaru was very late to the game on the electronic steering. I worked on a 2006 Saturn Vue the other day, electric steering. My buddy bought a brand new '13 Accord and had to replace two of his wheel bearings under warranty. He was also close to 300lbs and it was the driver side wheel bearings that needed to be replaced, coincidence? Depending on how the vehicle is loaded will certainly play a part in how long particular components last. All that being said. Cars are NOT built to last; they're throw away objects, they want you to buy a new one, and the 6th/7th gen legacy/outback is unfortunately succumbing to that. Other cars have the exact same issues and are a lot more expensive to work on. cost of repairs/maintenance over 5 years on a 17 legacy 3.6 vs 17 audi a4(6) 2.0 turbo quattro (8990 vs 13493(15456)). Yeah I'll keep the subaru even if I have to put an extra axle and battery in it. My '01 legacy has 230k on it, I've put 31 of that on there, I've only put 12k on my '17 3.6 and I already feel like it just wont be in similar condition at 230k; and it's not for lack of trying.

What is that a picture for ants?? All those things you said sound right. Aren't Subaru's cool?

You press the button and then they compress like normal, no twisty just squeeze. The only information needed via scantool for a drain and fill is CVT temperature, a relearn is not necessary. What's the shifter assembly look like in the canadian models? The CVT hugely mutes the 3.6 in this generation. I took a buddy for a ride and he said, "how in the fuck is it faster 30-60 than it is 0-30?"

I still have my 32-bit WinXP laptop and VAGCOM cable from when I turbocharged and tuned my turbo gc-rs. I haven't attempted to plug it in to the 3.6 yet. I'm sure at the very least OBD scanning would be possible but things like setting the brake maintenance mode to replace rear pads would not be supported with any of the software on it currently. I want SSM4 and a denso interface box so bad.

Don't get Zevo's, they're dimmer than a halogen. Your best bet is to match the bulb, anything else may look 'off'.

Two types of Subaru's, those that need a power steering pump, and those that have had it replaced already

OE is ideal, Victory Reinz and Mahle are practically OE. Stone is good. Basically anything but felpro(failpro)

Do not do this. You will damage the wheel bearing. Do you not have a friend/family member that can hold the brake pedal for five seconds? If it's a rear you could just set the parking brake, but I still think it's ideal to just hold the pedal.

If it looks and smells like ATF I don't think that's gonna be any type of PCV leak. If the pump has been seeping for a long time it could be that. I know they're kind of crammed in there but look directly behind and below the power steering pump. They generally make a mess of the timing cover as well. Just as a note, no power steering stuff is bolted to the firewall, from the factory any way. You can see one of your PS lines in that photo, it has the R on it. They are bolted to the strut tower, you can kinda see where at in the photo with the rubber holder thingy.

should be 10mm bolts, and if they are 10mm bolts I believe that makes them m8x1.0