silverton

Has the car been in any kind of incident with the rear? I know there are some thin metal shield type things around/inside the rear bumper.

are you positive it's on the exterior of the vehicle? It's amazing the amount of rattle complaints I get and the car is just filled with all sorts of goodies that rattle in the cargo area. 'rec customer remove personal belongings' for due diligence make sure the spare tire holder is tight.

definitely red

I hate driving a manual in traffic, actually hate driving a manual period but especially in traffic, and that seems to be 90%-100% of my driving. I may be an outlier but Eye Sight does most of the driving and I'm fine with that, helps make it feel like I didn't spend an hour in bumper to bumper.

that's rod knock.

I was at the dealer a few years after the new CVT equipped WRX came out, and I had heard our cars did the neat CVT thing at that time. Pin it and it stays at peak RPM and the car just scoots, but too many people complained about it apparently and wanted shifts. Curious if anyone with a 15/16 CVT WRX can confirm that or not. Sometimes my 3.6 feels weird, but I think that's the fact the torque converter stays locked in like 90% of situations.

It could be the motor going out, or it could be a leaf or some debris in there.

Subaru and seeping/leaking rear struts, name a more iconic duo I think there is even a TSB for the Impreza model, that's where I see it the most.

Modify your upper radiator hose and you can use something like this https://prosportgauges.com/products/water-temp-sender-radiator-hose-adaptor

Can you take a video of what its doing?

They're also still using the same general suspension setup from 1993. Subaru is incredibly slow at adopting new things.

There's even a scantool break-in procedure. The manual is the same for the H4 and H6. These variable compressors are for fuel savings, not cost, for their overall EPA rating. Much like FB's can and should be using 5w30 but to meet their rated MPG you must use water.

If your voltage dropped low enough the modules aren't happy so when it was going around checking on the modules the RAB module may have been near last in line and didn't have enough voltage to say 'hey i'm here', so it coded until a couple key cycles with proper voltage. Often times when these persist you can fix it by doing a 'cap discharge' touching the neg terminal to the pos for a few seconds.

make sure the slide pins are lubed up!

The BIU is where all your fuses go on the inside, usually an access panel just in front of the left knee while seated in the driver position will let you look at it and replace any fuses that happen to blow. As far as parts availability I can not speak on that, but I do know somewhat recently there was a microchip shortage an whatnot so that's going to cause a big backlog for everyone, not just Subaru.

Yes.

looks good from here. did you space the belt guides appropriately?

Is it like the brakes are sticking ?

The DRL is the high beam bulb at reduced power. The next 10-14 legacy/outback I get I will take a picture of what the low beam should look like when the low beam bulb is positioned correctly.

DLC, ECM, and Main Relay all get their power from SBF-5 in the underhood fuse box.

When the key is on and engine is off, is your check engine light illuminated? if not it should be. might just be the bulb, but this is an indicator that the ECM is functioning and potentially the scan tool you're using isn't working. Has this scan tool communicated with the car before? Sometimes I really have to wiggle and push the scan tool connector in the obd2 port for it to connect to my 2001. My best guess is that the coil pack or a crank/cam sensor gave up. If you get the scan tool to connect look at live data while cranking and see if an RPM is registering, this would indicate the crank/cam sensors are okay.

My favorite cars to work on are customer diagnosed. "this other shop said" or "my friend said" or "i searched on a forum and they said" and 9/10 times they are wrong. Just the other week I replaced a drive shaft at another shops recommendation, because they had just replaced a wheel bearing so that couldn't possibly be the cause of the noise they're hearing. Declined any kind of diagnosis so I didn't even test drive it before doing the work. During the work I noticed no kind of recent witness marks on any of the wheel bearing bolts. On the test drive after I found both rear wheel bearings were just roaring. Sorry bud, should have paid for a diag; more money please! It's like going to a doctor and telling them what procedure you need, like what are you even doing?

"head unit" is the term used for the radio in most aftermarket scenarios. Can confirm, once the touch portion of the unit starts to fail, it needs to be replaced. It's relatively simple to do yourself if you decide to go the used route. all you need is a plastic pry tool and a philips screw driver.... oh and paitence. they do not give you a lot of slack on the wiring and there's like a dozen plugs. okay, maybe not a dozen but like 6 or so of varying shapes and sizes.

Dude. All I did was call the device silly, the silliest part is that it's $100 for $5 worth of electronics. You for some reason took that personally like you had a stake in its creation. I'm sorry I hurt your feelings.

do not underestimate people. where there is a will there is a way.