silverton

I don't recommend buying headlight bulbs with moving parts

You should replace the battery too. 11.8v resting isn't good. I do understand its had a weak alternator charging it, but that does kill the cells.

Oh yeah! the exhaust is there too, duh.. When you take the exhaust off do it at the heads and the spring bolts. you should be able to get the rearward bolt from the other side of the crossmember... just giv'er a good ole reacharound

Yes i was referring to the pitch stop. the goal of raising the motor is to gain clear access to the rearward, hidden, bolt.

Which transmission mount did you replace? the one under the back of the transmission or the one up top at the front of the transmission? I'd recommend replacing both of them along with both engine mounts especially at your mileage. Engine mounts are kind of a PITA to do in the car but if you unbolt the radiator brackets, the pitch stop, and the lower motor mount nuts then lift the drivetrain til it wont go up any more from the front diff, it's not so bad.

you're talking about the whole rear door right? that generation spanned from 93-99, just for ease of any potential headaches you should look for a 1997, but if you can't find one stay in the later years 96-99.

It is my opinion that the six cylinders are the best engine subaru ever made, there aren't many things to look out for with these. Since you're going to look at a 10 those dont have much of an undercover so you're going to want to peak underneath. The timing chain cover can seep/leak, I believe this is a telltale sign that one too many oil changes went long overdue. And the head gaskets will start to show they're failing externally around 200k miles.

all subarus look the same on the bottom, they haven't changed anything in like 30 years. this was a 15-19 outback.

I love it when people do their own tricks, they were told by another shop they needed a new steering rack. sharp eyed folk will see one of the links is not tight. I really dont think these cars enjoy being lifted, especially when they have eye sight.

I'd suspect the resistor if it only worked on full speed, which bypasses the resistor. you probably got a dead blower bud.

I implore you to pave the way, but in my experience of replacing about a dozen of these, it sucks even with the manifold off the car. I wouldn't put myself through the torture of trying to fuck that hose in place in the engine bay when it takes about 30 minutes to remove the manifold.

For some vindication, i have an 18 outback at my shop with a nasty pull to the right, even though i've got everything within .02 degrees of spec. and it's sitting on brand new OE tires.

dang, I'd have tossed all of it but the nistune ecm's... that shits like pokemon cards! probably worth way too much money. but i also know how hoarding can be

I know the guy that paved the way to put VG30's into those 510's neat cars!

I was about to do an NGK hate post because their warranty is generally 30-60 days and its just like...yall stand that hard behind your product huh? The NGK coils have a 3 year warranty, vs the denso's 1 year, so that's nice!

now that you mention it, i haven't seen as many posts as I used to... I also miss it.

there should be a rubber bit on the end of that... could it be stuck in the hole?

There probably weren't enough cars that burned to the ground to make it a full recall. Even in Seattle my third gen fuel lines seep occasionally and I don't think we are in the TSB's locale... think it specifically mentions the new england states. I have all the new hoses/clamps from the TSB just... haven't bothered since I'm pretty sure the intake manifold has to come off and I'm kinda lazy working on my own cars.

I dunno if it's known here, but there is a TSB for the cold weather fuel line seepage. I believe the recommendation is to replace the hoses.

You're trying to put a turbo engine in a non-turbo car? You're gonna have a bad time. You can bolt the Legacy GT engine to your non-turbo cars transmission; that's actually the easy part. Getting the rest to work... $$$$$$$$$

I got my ECM and VDC modules updated last weekend by a buddy at the dealership. The car feels completely different around town. I always thought it was a bit boring all through the rev range. Did take a friend for a ride at one point a couple months ago and he said "how is faster 30-60 than it is 0-30?" Welp, one of the updates took care of that. I've been between shops so I've been door dashing the shit out of it and got real used to how it was. She's completely different now, and for the better.

This buddy. 1000% this.

It's very difficult to determine where the sound is coming from in the video, sounds like you're just rolling over dead leaves. It could be the wheel bearing, it may not be at a failure point where there is play you can feel by grabbing at 12/6. Ideally you'd put it on a lift and run it at ~40mph to feel for vibration in the coil springs.

Top engine cleaning kit eh.... is that like seafoam or something? Generally you'll use the brake booster hose port. You'll need a friend as that big of a vacuum leak doesn't like to keep the engine running.

That's normal operation for an open diff.