silverton

I believe they serve a purpose with directing light as well, but it's your stuff...try it.

They want to take the cam gears off to get the rear timing cover out, as this does make it easier to replace the pump; but you don't need to. If it were me I'd take the tensioner bracket out since you'll need to reset your tensioner anyway. tensioner bracket bolts are 25nm, water pump bolts are two passes of 12, or do it the saab way; one pass of 8, second pass of 12.

blue gaskets are never good

I believe that's what they used to align the headlights via machine back in the day

5 is good, 10 is okay, 15 there's an issue, 20+ fix that shit before you break it.

Like Infosecdad said, an impact will take it off. There are tools available to untang the nut to make it easier if an impact is not available, these nuts are torqued to 190-220nm so they're tiiight. The blue point untanger also comes with a tanger so you people can stop breaking the tips off your screw drivers I, like you, know Timken to be a trusted bearing brand so at the time I replaced it with another one. After I made that post I actually think I had to do it a third time. Knowing what I know today, I'd buy an OE bearing unless it meant I had to eat ramen for the week. I've had too many aftermarket parts not even make it to half the mileage, some of them not even a quarter, that the original part did.

Just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good! There's a reason why I replaced a quickly failed timken with another timken!

Well, you were incorrectly measuring ride height before, so there's that. Your front is just a smidge over the specified limit, which is 16.1", could be normal deviance in the user and the measuring tool. Your rear is still within specification, which has a lower limit of 14.14". You've failed to mention how many miles are on your car, what kind of maintenance you've done to it, or tire size. Every car needs a suspension refresh every 70-100k miles. It sounds to me like your car is overdue for a refresh in the suspension department. Tires, control arms, lateral links, strut assemblies, et cet era... all of these components play into your ride height, which is why there is a upper and lower limit to account for these variables. Your current ride height is fine, unless you have other complaints about the car like clunking in the suspension or very bouncy on the freeway, stop trying to make a problem. At the end of the day, just get the 'saggy butt spacers' to combat the purposely squatted rear suspension, all it does is add height, no stiffness.

Per factory spec, the rear is .55" lower than the front. So, all those people that said it is all fine, aren't trying to get one past you. Mine is basically nuts on factory spec, at least on the driver side, with around a quarter tank of gas. Here's my front: And my rear:

Hard to say if bearings were replaced before you purchased, but if they were, it was likely under warranty, so... anywhere between 145k and 225k miles on OE bearings. They are $270/ea, so I'd pick either SKF or timken aftermarket if I had to, they're both ~$100. That being said, I did have to do wheel bearings twice on my impreza in the 80k miles i owned it and I used timken bearings both times, so take that for what its worth. penny wise, pound foolish!

TR580 in the 2.5, TR690 in the 3.6

This is with all four wheels on the ground?

If they're charging you money, that's why. But it is not specified in the repair manual that a relearn is necessarily.

A relearn is not necessary with fluid replacement.

I hope these help!

Only if the fluid coming out is the same temperature as the fluid going in, like if the car and the new fluid stayed in the garage over night before work was performed. Ideally the fluid level would still be checked via proper procedure, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do right?

P0700 is an ECM code triggered by the TCM, to let you know there is a DTC in the TCM.

Invest in one of these: https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/sp4928/5-8-x-6-swivel-spark-plug-socket This allows you do spark plugs in the car with minimal disassembly. With this you no longer need to disconnect motor mounts to get a better angle. I can have the tool attached to a ratchet and still get it in 3 of the 4 holes

I'm surprised that bolt broke at 13ft/lb. that's only 5nm over spec. 13ftlb = 17nm, spec is 12nm. just for the record subaru wants you to do two passes of 12nm starting at the top going clockwise, saabaru on the other hand wants one pass of 8nm and a second pass of 12nm. I suppose someone prior could have abused the threads and weakened them. If you're lucky that will still seal, be sure to use an OE metal crushy type gasket.

whoops

If you're not increasing your rev range the 10mm is probably fine. for reference the 12mm oil pump is fitted to 2.0 dual avcs engines that rev to like 8,000 rpm or something like that.

It might go on one of the top corner bolts of the timing cover. since it's held in by what looks like a single 10mm bolt and holds one wire, you're not going to miss this bracket.

the lock tab is probably broken on the lid. part number 92114 here https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2015_Legacy-25L-CVT-Limited-Sedan/_54103_6463972/CONSOLE-BOX/B15-930-01.html unfortunately they dont list the clasp separately.

I suppose an alternator could go in place of the power steering pump but I think that defeats the OPs purpose of "future projects"

I think you're going to need an uprated alternator no matter what electric power steering system you go with.