silverton

now that you mention it, i haven't seen as many posts as I used to... I also miss it.

there should be a rubber bit on the end of that... could it be stuck in the hole?

There probably weren't enough cars that burned to the ground to make it a full recall. Even in Seattle my third gen fuel lines seep occasionally and I don't think we are in the TSB's locale... think it specifically mentions the new england states. I have all the new hoses/clamps from the TSB just... haven't bothered since I'm pretty sure the intake manifold has to come off and I'm kinda lazy working on my own cars.

I dunno if it's known here, but there is a TSB for the cold weather fuel line seepage. I believe the recommendation is to replace the hoses.

You're trying to put a turbo engine in a non-turbo car? You're gonna have a bad time. You can bolt the Legacy GT engine to your non-turbo cars transmission; that's actually the easy part. Getting the rest to work... $$$$$$$$$

I got my ECM and VDC modules updated last weekend by a buddy at the dealership. The car feels completely different around town. I always thought it was a bit boring all through the rev range. Did take a friend for a ride at one point a couple months ago and he said "how is faster 30-60 than it is 0-30?" Welp, one of the updates took care of that. I've been between shops so I've been door dashing the shit out of it and got real used to how it was. She's completely different now, and for the better.

This buddy. 1000% this.

It's very difficult to determine where the sound is coming from in the video, sounds like you're just rolling over dead leaves. It could be the wheel bearing, it may not be at a failure point where there is play you can feel by grabbing at 12/6. Ideally you'd put it on a lift and run it at ~40mph to feel for vibration in the coil springs.

Top engine cleaning kit eh.... is that like seafoam or something? Generally you'll use the brake booster hose port. You'll need a friend as that big of a vacuum leak doesn't like to keep the engine running.

That's normal operation for an open diff.

I do know, and the bulb still illuminates, just dimly.

^ What they said. Battery starts the car, alternator keeps it running. but if the alternator hasn't been able to charge the battery sufficiently it will also go bad.

You can kinda determine it just based on the condition of the plug. does it look melted? are the contacts clean and shiny or are they burnt and corroded? You would put the multimeter leads and check what voltage is making it to the pins. this is called 'voltage drop', they should be reading battery/alternator voltage, if it's less than that you have excessive drop and I would suspect the connectors.

You may have excessive resistance in the headlight plug itself, I know on the older models the plug would melt and the bulbs would be dim until you spliced in a new connector.

They're plastic, so how clouded are they? my third gen is the same way though, barely tell a difference between DRL and low beam, still even with new housings, but I can see better!

I had an oreillys alternator last me about 200 miles before failing, I was really impressed. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. did you replace the first bad replacement with the same brand?

That's a bit low there buddy. Even if we're aiming for the middle spec of 156.5, you're 24% under. but doesn't really explain why it falls on its face with the alternator harness plugged in. Have you replaced the alternator yet? Have you checked voltage at the alternator while its running? Or the battery itself? Battery starts the car, alternator keeps it started. a battery will keep a car running for a short time though.

That explains things. rodents chewed through the wiring for your crank position sensor. No CPS signal to ECM = no start.

I had a MINTY 1987 Nissan 200SX SE-V6, bought from the original owner with 113k on the odo in Feb '11. They made just 10,000 of these with the vg30 in it so they could rally it. Something similar happened to me 9 months later, this idiot needed the exit on a two lane road from the left lane for some reason. Long story short the insurance company hugely low balled me by price comparing it to the only 200sx's they could find, the base model. I spent a day crawling the united states most populous cities craigslists to find all the SE-V6's I could. I came up with three that were close but not quite like condition. I replied to that email with a "that's offensive for this rare of a car, try again" and the links to the three cars I could find. They upped their offer by 2.5x and I was happy.

This one. the negative cable has enough slack to reach. If you feel better/safer disconnecting them both you may do it that way but not necessary.

The modules get extra triply unhappy when the battery slowly drains like that.. Do a cap discharge; disconnect the neg and touch it to the positive for 30 seconds and try to start it. It will crank long but hold through it should fire.

I use a 12mm socket on a 1/4 ratchet... do be careful with those connectors, they break if you look at them wrong.

I don't have much professional experience with 3.6's but one did come through with a single cylinder misfire, replaced a bunch of stuff....ended up being the ECM. Before you buy anything swap coil positions just to see. when were the spark plugs replaced? good luck!

Tire tread depth, generally measured in 1/32nd of an inch increments. 3/32" is the maximum allowable difference between tires on a Subaru. Not likely you're issue here though as all yours were new. I do wonder, maybe try taking the car to a performance type shop for an alignment, I know a lot of them outsource that stuff, but ones with in house alignment machines exist. a "normy" shop can't figure it out, and honestly having worked at one, there aren't too many smart people at the dealerships. they generally have one person who does all the diagnosis and the rest of them just turn wrenches. I know you mentioned an independent shop, was it a subaru specific one or just any brand? if it wasn't subaru specific i would try to find one of those instead.

chains are generally good for the life of the engine. if you regularly have hard tapping noise that subsides real quick from the engine on cold start you may need guides/tensioners, otherwise... that's the point of a chain, to not worry about it.