xX6TheGoose9Xx

All of the sensors are OEM

Its stock downpipe, but it has the single exaust conversion. I checked the spark plugs and theres no oil on them. I checked for vaccum leaks and couldnt hear anything. I redid the idle relearn procedure and drove it and it was fine. During the idle relearn, when I did the hot start, check engine light came on along with all four cylinders misfiring and the random misfire code. I checked all the roughness and the highest count on cylinder one was 4 and on the other cylinders it only got up to 1-2. As soon as I hit the road no roughness at all. On the AP the A/F ratio is right 11-12 under load and 14.7 during idle and light accel. Been talking with family friends, they were telling me the wiring harness itself could be bad. Since theres no distribtor, and brand new coil packs spark plugs and fuel injectors it may just be the harness itself,grounding to something. Ill post a photo later. I dont have any issues with It leaning out so I think I could rule out a fuel pump issue. The harness is the original 17 years old and has dirt and grime all over the connectors. Otherwise I feel like Ill be wasting time and fuel trying to reset the code and drive until the monitors are set only for the code to come back up on a cold start. Its a brand new shortblock, could the misfires just be from that inital crank and the rings not being 100% seated yet.

Have yet to check vaccum leaks or any sparkplug work. Injectors are side feed DW 1000cc injectors( forgot to mention that)Did a datalog before replaced oil control valve tuner said that oil valve was halfway open halfway closed. SOOO replaced that oil control valve, still throwing code. I personally made sure to take banjo filters out during rebuild in both avcs and turbo lines along with new copper washers. Yesterday was really cold out battery died (one year old) replaced battery let it idle for 10 minutes and now whenever I stop it idles out and dies. This weekend I will disconnect battery and verify the right idle learn procedure. I'm going to also check the spark plugs for oil on electrode and spark gap. On cold start the Cobb AP cylinder 1-3 roughness will spike up to 10-15, but after several minutes 0 roughness on both. Theres no blue smoke, and it smokes a fair bit but its a single exaust and its been colder than usual the last couple of days. Feels like a nightmare. Will work on it this weekend. keep posted, thanks in advance!.

Over this last summer one of my cylinders was doing a compression of 0-20 both cold and warm. Rebuilt heads (machined and held vaccum) and swapped shortblock with new crawford OEM shortblock. Got car back 2 weeks ago and on the drive home threw code p0021. Replaced that oil valve, no issues, drove it around after that and no issues. Week later drove it around and have both misfires in cylinders 1-3. Shop double checked work was holding compression and everything. Everything is stock except for cobb AP and grimspeed tmic. Would it just be the coil packs they're new OEM but sat for 4-5 months. Any help is greatly appreciated.

FIXED I bought the car last summer from Colorado let it sit for a month in the winter to prevent rust because I'm in south Missouri. Come March I went out for a drive in it and it locked up and everything. After the shop took it off the clutch had welded itself to the flywheel warped from the moisture and they had to pry it off. Got an exedy stage one clutch on there and it's only got 40 miles on it because now I've got ring failure and about to start a rebuild. Subie gang bb

Update: pumped clutch and let engine warm up still wouldn't disengage, read another post last night said that spring could've rusted and seized and jammed pressure plate. Already ordered new exedy organic stage one clutch. Luckly stimmy will cover it along with labor. Bit of backstory bought Legacy last year and bought it from uncle in Colorado (he changed out the clutch 5-6 months before buying), for the last two months it's been sitting because of snow and salt on the ground(trying to prevent rust) and think that with the humidity change (in missouri) that the clutch springs rusted out and after driving it caused them to go loose. BTW thanks for all the help, my first thread on here. Stay safe out there muchachos

Had the 5speed for a year no issues, engine is rebuilt with 35k miles, transmission has a full 160k. Clutch only has 5-6k miles on it. Drove around this morning with no issues from the clutch/tranny drove fine. Got home and waited for work for an hour. went to leave for work and wouldn't go in any gear, Waited a minute didn't go, pressed super hard, didn't go. Turned car off and went into gear fine. Turned it back on didn't go into gear. Master cylinder has fluid in it suspecting leak in slave/ master cylinder. Didn't give any trouble at all while driving around before, pedal is firm and responsive. Won't try to get into gear just refuses. Havent taken off tmic yet to check for leaks, would there be a smell ?will call subaru dealership tomorrow. Hopefuly clutch hasn't gone out trying to make transmission last before a rebuild next year, working on engine this year. Whatcha think