npatel107

Year, Make and Model: 2011 Subaru Legacy 3.6R Limited Color: Satin White Pearl Miles: 80k Transmission: Auto Title: Clean NY title Lien: Paid off, lien-release in hand Location: (City, State) Nutley, NJ VIN: 4S3BMDL65B2252371 Seller's email address: npatel107@gmail.com Asking Price: $9,000 obo Additional information: Options include Moonroof, navigation, and OEM remote start. 5k mile oil changes at dealership since new (purchased May 2012). Carfax will show multiple accidents, no frame damage and airbags never deployed. Both bumpers have scratches from parking in NYC, small dent (approximately baseball sized) and scratches on RF fender, all 4 wheels have curb rash but not cracks or bends. Tires have plenty of life left, Continental DWS 06. Serpentine belt, idler pulley, and tensioner replaced last week. No lights on dash, car runs great. Front brake pads and rotors were replaced within the last 6 months (<5k miles ago). New Interstate battery installed last month. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out.

Battery is actually super old (almost 7 years). That was my first guess but then since when it was tested it said it’s ok, I was thrown off. No lights were on when driving around so agreed, don’t think it’s an alternator issue either. Would an issue with the starter make it act like this? Not sure if a jump would help if it was the starter. FWIW, starter was replaced Aug 2017 with an OEM one.

Happy Sunday everyone. Haven’t had a chance to look into this much, figured I’d see if anyone has suggestions on where to start. Car wouldn’t turn over yesterday (video attached). Gave it a jump, it started. Had the battery/alternator checked and both are coming up okay. Drove the car around for a bit. No codes, drove normally. This morning, wouldn’t start again. 2011 Legacy 3.6R Limited w/ 78k miles IMG_2004.MOV

Third times the charm? Dash lit up again and is sputtering. At least this time I know it’s a coil pack. My 7 years of extended coverage are up so no more stealership visits for me! Anyone have a reliable indy shop in Queens/LI they recommend? Also, if I decide to go the DIY route, is there a way to know which cylinder the issue is with?

Ok thanks, good to know. Easy DIY? I looked online but didn't see any videos for my particular model.

Adjuster went to look at it today and said the failure is due to rust, which is an exclusion to the policy. So for now I am just going to have the dealer replace the one that failed and move on. I did ask him to check the coil for cylinder 6 since that was replaced about 18 months ago. If that one is rusted as well, should I be concerned that there is a bigger issue that needs to be addressed?

That's the plan. I have a $250 deductible so if they don't cover the others, they won't even end up paying anything since the dealer told me about $200 for the one. If they don't cover the rest though, I will probably just take care of the rest myself when the weather warms up.

I wouldn't worry. Abnormal issues have a way of finding me. Bought the car in June of 2012 so it was a 2011 leftover that sat for a long time. I wonder if this contributes to the weird issues I've had. Every time it goes in to the shop I debate if I should just sell and move into a new one, but when's it's running normal, it's still a great car. Only 52k miles and no payment. Hard to give that up.

And I'm back. Car started idling rough and the Christmas lights popped up on the dash (CEL, Cruise, Brake, VDC) last Sunday. I was in NJ at the time and didn't want to risk stalling out on a bridge or tunnel so just left it at my brother's place and had it towed to a dealership in NJ. Diagnosis: misfire in cyl 6 resulting from a corroded coil pack. From what I've read, these coil packs aren't usually faulty. The car has about 52k miles on it and this is the second failed coil. I asked the dealer to take a look at the others and turns out they are all corroded. 3rd party extended warranty company said they will need to send someone to look at it before authorizing payment since this isn't a normal issue. Any ideas as why/how all the coil packs could have corroded? I'm just glad the dealer actually looked at the others when I asked otherwise I'd probably be having the same issue again in a few months. Edit: I also asked him to make sure the plugs are OK and he said they are.

Yup. Luckily low speed/low impact. I was stopped in traffic on the Queensboro Bridge and a 17 year old in a brand new X1 bumped into me. No crack, just a scratch across the bumper.

Assuming when I last changed the air filter (June 2016), I must not have properly secured the box. I have a new Wix filter sitting here, but just told the dealer to replace it while they had the car and would be opening the box anyway. $25 for the filter itself and luckily I was able to convince them not to charge labor. Anyway, end result is new MAF, new (remanufactured) starter, and new control arm bushings. The car runs great now, took it on a couple hundred mile trip this weekend. The car did get rear-ended on Friday, but that's a different story.

Also, should finally be getting the car back tomorrow. They're replacing the starter and apparently the control arm bushings were shot too.

That's a great point. I use the Wix 49012. I last changed it about a year ago. I remember it being a PITA so I'm sure there's a good change it wasn't 100% secured. I bet the dealer didn't even take a look at that because they didn't have an answer when I asked how the MAF could've gotten so dirty like that. I'll toss a new filter in there this weekend and be sure the box is secured.

Unfortunately I had the car towed straight to the dealership. They already diagnosed and cleaned it so the bill is already at $150. I'll be sure to clean it when I change the air filter every 6 months going forward.

Dealership just called and said mass air flow sensor was absolutely disgusting. Said after cleaning it, the car seems to be running fine. However he did say that before they cleaned it, there were pending codes showing misfires on all cylinders. Would you recommend just replacing the sensor at this point? (The cleaning alone will run about $150 per the dealership, but I do have 3rd party extended that will kick in after a $250 deductible so replacement would only cost me an extra $100 at this point) Also, does it make sense that this would have been the cause for the problem and the misfire codes? No word yet on the cold start grinding, he said they will look at that tomorrow morning.