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What did you do to your Legacy today? [PNW Edition]


tpeterson4237

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Once again, cutting it close Boxkita. But that's your SOP! LOL!

 

:spin::spin::spin::spin:

 

Fricking racecar is still in the shop. Been waiting on a seat that fits me & the car. Then found out the transmission is bad. Really didnt want to be doing another track event in the wagon. Now, I'm scrambling to get the hubs replaced (they're fine for the road, but wont take another day of lapping).

 

I really thought the racecar was going to make things easier. :eek:

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Your rear lower arm bars will be there on time. Did you get the tracking info?

 

Your Spec.B upper lateral links are going out today.

 

yep, got the tracking info. Looks like the lower bars will be here late on Thursday. Along with the last second oil change and hub replacement, Ryan is right...my SOP hasn't changed at all. Beginning to understand why ppl leave their racecar at the shop and have them "take care" of it.

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There its a track day this Sunday at Pacific raceway

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Sunday @ Pacific will be a drag race test n tune.

 

The road course schedule for Pacific is here: http://www.pacificraceways.com/RoadRacing/2013Schedule.aspx . Multi-day weekend events will be sports car races (SCCA, NASA, IRDC, SOVREN, etc). Single day events tend to be club events (you have to be a member to actually run, spectating is usually free)

 

The Ridge in Shelton, http://www.ridgemotorsportspark.com/events/ , is pretty much the same way. Multi-day weekend events are road racing. Single days (though some precede the racing) are clubs.

 

Add in PIR (portland) and ORP (eastern OR)...there's alot of track time available this year. Including a road race nearly every weekend.

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Received my TRS Morimoto RetroQuick system from the GB last night. Really excited about this upgrade! Hoping to get started soon on the install including painting the 06 housings at the same time, and maybe get all my wiring done this weekend (saved my Hella install for the same time since I'll have the bumper off for both projects and lots of wiring to tackle).

 

I'll have a FS ad up when this is done to get rid of my OEM 05 set of headlights I bought and cleared with zero leaks/condensation (PNW tested for the winter) all tabs in tact, along with the OSRAM bulbs in them now.

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Jacked up the car and drained the transmission Sunday night.

 

Put the plug back in today and filled it up with new oil. Drove it around the neighborhood and it still doesn't want to go into 1st or reverse (which is what prompted me to change fluids in the first place). Will top off the trans tomorrow and try again after some freeway miles to get the new oil thoroughly splashed around in there.

 

I have a six-pack of Motul 300 coming tomorrow, but I thought it would be interesting to see if regular Valvoline 75w90 from NAPA would help with getting into first and reverse, so I bought some after work. In the name of science.

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Yes, I'm sure it would be easier to get into reverse. :)

 

I talked with some co-workers and a couple of them theorized that it's a clutch problem. I like that theory a lot, will look into it this weekend.

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torque impresses girrls, hp impresses flat-bills
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Yes, I'm sure it would be easier to get into reverse. :)

 

I talked with some co-workers and a couple of them theorized that it's a clutch problem. I like that theory a lot, will look into it this weekend.

 

An easy way to see if the clutch is fully disengaging is:

 

1)Start with the car completely stopped in neutral with the clutch petal up and engine running of course.

2)Press the pedal to the floor and try to engage reverse, don't do it super fast but also don't lollygag.

3)Does it engage? If yes then the clutch is releasing. If NO see next step.

4)Does it make a grinding noise? If it does, does the frequency change like the trans is slowing down slowly? If yes then it like likely the clutch isn't releasing all the way.

 

This could be caused by a

 

Hydraulic issue in the system (clutch master or slave or a leak)

A failure in the clutch itself (warped pressure plate, clutch disc or flywheel)

Clutch disc binding on the input shaft and not being able to slide (ever so slightly if that)

 

The reason I say to use reverse is because its un-synchronized and it will give you more feedback about whats going on.

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An easy way to see if the clutch is fully disengaging is:

 

1)Start with the car completely stopped in neutral with the clutch petal up and engine running of course.

2)Press the pedal to the floor and try to engage reverse, don't do it super fast but also don't lollygag.

3)Does it engage? If yes then the clutch is releasing. If NO see next step.

4)Does it make a grinding noise? If it does, does the frequency change like the trans is slowing down slowly? If yes then it like likely the clutch isn't releasing all the way.

 

This could be caused by a

 

Hydraulic issue in the system (clutch master or slave or a leak)

A failure in the clutch itself (warped pressure plate, clutch disc or flywheel)

Clutch disc binding on the input shaft and not being able to slide (ever so slightly if that)

 

The reason I say to use reverse is because its un-synchronized and it will give you more feedback about whats going on.

 

 

There's no grinding, it just won't go into reverse if the engine is running.

 

Engine off, it goes into reverse no problem. First, too. Knowing that, I can at least continue to drive the car... :) Not sure I want to though.

 

I bled the clutch today, and that made no difference. Pulled the slave cylinder off, put a clamp on it to keep the piston inside, tipped it up so the bleed screw was up high, got my GF to work the clutch while I worked the bleeder. The fluid that came out was clear, no haze, no bubbles. Still won't go into reverse if the engine is running.

 

It just hit me that I should have bled the master while I was under the hood. There's a bleeder valve on it... Will try that next.

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That sounds like something internal in the clutch, like the disc is binding on the input shaft possibly.

 

I had a similar problem, not quite severe as yours with my ACT 6 puck, turns out I damaged the dampening springs on the hub of the disc. I think It gave just enough play to bind up the disc. It was bad enough that sometimes the car would keep moving forward with the clutch pedal depressed. A quick tap of the brakes would stop the car but you could tell the clutch was dragging. I also had a audible rattle when I depressed the clutch.

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