rodan Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Megasquirt is definitely in the plan, but it'll take me a month or two to scratch together the funds, so I'm going to try to get it running on the stock ECU. I remember the problems you had, and it's definitely not a permanent solution. If it becomes an overwhelming PITA, the car can sit, I'd just rather have it driveable. Starting on pulling the 1.6 tomorrow, and picking up the VVT motor on Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 I'm sure you already know this but you'll at least need a VVT controller to have it run right. As for mine a big part of the issue I had was from the timing belt being off a tooth. However cold starts were always slightly off even after I fixed the problem. The car was mostly fun after I sorted the timing belt issue. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 The motor will run with the VVT disabled, but obviously you don't get the benefits. I mostly just want the car to be mobile, and make sure the engine doesn't have any issues (90 day warranty). I don't plan to drive it much until I get the MS3 installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Step one... done. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_1842_zpsjdwx0ml8.jpg BTW, here's a great thread on MT.net on VVT swap: http://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/definitive-vvt-swap-into-90-97-chassis-megathread-80469/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Kick ass! VVT motor in a 1.6 car sounds like a ton of fun! 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Your biggest sticking point is going to be the throttle body and idle control with the 1.6 electronics. I'd really just recommend letting the car sit until you can get the megasquirt in and working. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 That might just happen, as the list of crap I want to do before reinstalling the engine keeps getting longer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 If you have space for it to sit, it's not necessarily a bad thing, you'll probably be happier in the long run. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 If you have space for it to sit, it's not necessarily a bad thing, you'll probably be happier in the long run. Space isn't really the issue, I just don't want this to snowball into a never ending "one more thing" saga before the 1.8 goes in... I got the trans split from the 1.6, and pulled all the stuff I need to keep. Engine is loaded in the truck for it's trip to oblivion... at least they're giving me something for the core. Clutch looked surprisingly good, though I won't be re-using it. I also confirmed my mystery rattle at 2900 rpm under light load was likely the springs in the clutch disc, which were loose. Trans is going to need a good cleanup as the rear and front seals were leaking. They weren't gushing, but it was enough to make a mess of the underside of the engine/trans. It'll be nice to get everything cleaned up in the engine bay before the 1.8 goes in. The list of 'must do' (so far): TB/WP on the 1.8 New seals (crank/cam) Clutch/PP Coolant re-route (including head gasket) New motor mounts MS3 The list of 'would be nice to do' (which keeps getting longer): Drill/tap oil pan for turbo return line (possible eventuality) Seam weld engine compartment/ shave 'wings'/ paint Wire cleanup/ partial tuck New clutch hydraulics Anyone have any other things I should think about while the motor's out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I'd put the clutch hydraulics in the must do category, they are cheap and will fail on you. They are also far easier to replace when the trans/engine are out of the car. Also look into replacing all the coolant hoses, especially the heater core and lower radiator hoses. Depending on the condition of your transmission I'd also look at the seals on it, they are also known for leaking. I'd skip the oil line tapping, depending on your time line for the turbo you may end up pulling the motor again before or around that time. Seam welding would be fantastic and if you can do it yourself just time consuming. Wire tuck always seems nice, but living in CA it's never something I've considered doing. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I did the clutch slave a couple of years ago, just considering doing the whole kit from 949 since the motor's out. I also did all the coolant hoses when I did the TB/WP on the 1.6 in 2012, so they're in pretty good shape. Trans seals are a good point, I'll look into that. If I could seam weld without having to paint, it'd be a no brainer (I have MIG and TIG). Painting the engine compartment raises the PITA threshold quite a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I did the clutch slave a couple of years ago, just considering doing the whole kit from 949 since the motor's out. I also did all the coolant hoses when I did the TB/WP on the 1.6 in 2012, so they're in pretty good shape. Trans seals are a good point, I'll look into that. If I could seam weld without having to paint, it'd be a no brainer (I have MIG and TIG). Painting the engine compartment raises the PITA threshold quite a bit... Yeah I really need to pull the weather stripping off and stitch weld the window/door frame. Just a PITA lol. just do the hardline replacement and the clutch master cylinder isn't that difficult with the engine in the car. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted January 4, 2016 I Donated Share Posted January 4, 2016 Just go full retard - http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=67828 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Just go full retard - http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=67828 That's a great build... and I think this car is going to end up going full retard (stripped and caged track rat). I'm still undecided whether I will go forced induction or do a V8/V6 swap down the road, but I had to do something as the 1.6 had about had it. Picked up the motor this morning: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_1845_zps0dbkijrz.jpg My shop helper assisted in unloading it... http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_1852_zpssahdggc2.jpg Good compression #s http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_1851_zpsk4lf8san.jpg I can really feel the difference turning it over. The 1.6 had almost no resistance at all, the 1.8 you can definitely feel the compression stroke. A guy on M.net posted a before after dyno from 1.6 to 1.8VVT and he picked up 53hp! I will be overjoyed if I make anywhere close to that. Fortuitously, a gun I put up for sale over the weekend sold almost immediately, so I hope to order my MS3 early next week. Then I can start ordering the other miscellaneous stuff I need before putting the engine back in the car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 That's killer! Those numbers are awesome, I should do a compression test on my car, but I don't want to know if it's bad lol Granted I never drove my 90 with the 1.6, only the 1.8, but I can honestly say the best thing about the VVT motor is the mid range torque. If you don't have a torsen in the car now I'd start saving for one as the 1.6 diff is considerably weaker than the 1.8. That's great news you'll be able to get the MS3 sooner than you had thought. Are you getting the one capable of natively controlling the VVT, or going with an external VVT controller? I'm living vicariously through you right now! 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I swapped in a 4.10 Torsen a couple of years back, so that's good to go. My plan is for MS3 w/MS3x expansion board, which I understand to be able to natively control the VVT. I really like MS3 Pro, but can't justify the extra cost for what I plan to do with the car. I'm planning to use a standard box with DIYBOB to connect to the NA6 harness so the MS3 is not dedicated to the chassis. Depending what I do down the road with the Miata (LFX?), it may eventually end up in my Bronco running a Ford V8... I think I can be all-in on engine management for ~$850... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Stripped the manifolds and motor mounts off today. Overall, looks pretty clean, though I'll get a better idea when the valve cover comes off. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_9516_zpskmshuox6.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_9517_zpsoyj6vr9e.jpg Also fit up the '99 fuel rail with the 1.6 FPR. Took a bit of grinding on the intake to clear, but it looks good to go. Also deleted the VTCS. It'll get all new injector o-rings, etc. before it all goes together. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_9514_zpsdssxlnap.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/DSC_9515_zpszlazxso4.jpg Planning to order the MS3 tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Your post inspired me to do a little research it looks like i can delete the VTCS and keep the actuator and part of the rod so it looks like it's still there for emissions testing. I might have to try to find another manifold to see how it goes.... 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 If you're going to pick up another manifold, just get a VICS manifold off a 99-00. It's supposed to make a little better power than the the VTCS, but not quite as good as a flat top. Don't think a typical smog guy would know the difference... It's pretty easy to delete. Took about 5 minutes to pull the rod/plates, just need to tap the hole tomorrow and pick up a plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Concerned about the potential for a check engine light with that route. If I weren't worried about that I'd probably just pony up for a square top. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I keep forgetting that you have an NB now... yeah, with OBD-II, it could be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 I keep forgetting that you have an NB now... yeah, with OBD-II, it could be a problem. Yeah from the reading I did it sounds like the check for VTCS is to quickly toggle the actuator and make sure it's not stuck or missing the actuator entirely. Basically the deletes I saw on Miata.net should be fine and also alow me to pass visual. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 MS3 ordered, and just got shipping notification. Cost almost as much as the engine... Only big nut left is the FM Happy Meal. The rest is small potatoes (that add up pretty quick). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 I need to get a clutch for my Miata but have a hard time with $600 for a Miata clutch and flywheel lol 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I used to get Centerforce clutches/pp and t.o. bearing for 5.0 Mustangs for under $150, but that was the early 90's... Everything seems expensive these days! By the time you price all the components, the FM setup is a pretty good deal, but if you're just doing clutch/pp on a stock motor, you can definitely do it a lot cheaper. I'm starting to get the feeling this thing may just end up with forced induction, so I want to go better than stock on the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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